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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,369
Last Year: 599
Last 30 Days: 14
83 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1018 | Routes 94 | Areas 17 | Photos 140 | Page Improvments | Comments 474 | Posts 3 | Stars 223 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Housekeeping Bouldering : Prowess (V7 PG13)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: A little more detail: begin left of the Torque jug, kinda bear-hugging prow. There's a variety of starting pinches/slopers for left hand, and right hand should be on a sloping crimp. Perform a series of compression slaps and pulls, then join up with Torque for the glory-topout.

Do yourself a favor and clean the topout! Lotsa pine needles...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I'm totally confused...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: I always do this line at the end of the day, when the sun sifts through the trees and lights up the boulder.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Aztec Warrior is one of the coolest lines on Enlightenment Ridge.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Is this different than the problem that Darren calls Aztec Warrior?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: The crimp beneath Kyle's left hand is one of my top 5 favorite crimps in the world.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Hmm, I thought this WAS the Choadler. Climbed it a few weeks ago with Timmy tenderfingers. Seemed around V5. I remember it had a great deadpoint move, some tricky feet, and a high-ball topout. Awesome problem.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl...
By: andy patterson When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Here's how you find the trailhead:

santabarbarahikes.com/hikes/frontcountry/directions/index.sh>>>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Sick!

Mission is on. Richard, I'm thinking of just climbing it naked—for full value, of course.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Dude. I'm so in... if we can coordinate schedules. I've got access to lots of big gear. I have 1 WC #6, Bernd has a #6 BD and my buddy has tons of Big Bros.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: I've looked at this crack for years. I actually tried to go climb it this winter, but the road was closed due to ice. The picture of this route in the Steele/Tucker book is rad. Who knows? An offwidth renaissance could be approaching SB and Ventura counties...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Kyle, you're my hero.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: I love this problem. For a good friend of mine—a new climber—this was his first project. He sent after what seemed like fifty attempts. Even though he was only five feet off the deck, you don't often get to see someone so psyched.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Very, very cool. A crew of us from SB are coming with our cams to pluck the low-hanging (and hopefully high-hanging) fruit. So psyched!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Ant Traverse (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: This is so much harder now than when I first did it.

But I'm done whining...

Great traverse, and an absolute textbook on open-hand crimping.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Donner Memorial State Park : Split Rock East : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: What's the name of the rad little sit-start just right of this problem? I think it's a V7 or something in that ballpark...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Yowie Project (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: Bernd and I did the "dyno" start to the Yeti (also known as Yeti-direct). Different problem altogether, and clocks in around V7, depending on current state of erosion. The eliminate you describe here sounds like something I did a long time ago, but I think I might have used one of the big holds on Yeti. I can't remember. Whatever I did, it seemed harder than Yeti.

It's an eliminate, so either way you're mincing moves.

I think Bernd would say the same thing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain
By: andy patterson When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Road is open... according to my buddy Logan. He went there last weekend.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Gala Gala Happy (5.13d)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: After several consecutive weekends of digging out the bottom of The Sea (read: cross-training), Mr. Ball redpointed this rig at the first Annual Owltoberfest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : When The Sea Doesn't Want Y... (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: In recent news, Phil et al have been steadily digging away at the base of The Sea, adding holds on the wall as they go. So far, they've added about 8 extra feet of climbing movement to the start. If you can't keep going up, might as well go down, eh?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Nice looking line, check it out if you're up there. Timmy, tell me you weren't up there in the heat of this last weekend. The problem probably jumped five grades.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Old Pro Skill (5.12d)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: My current approach to this route includes skipping the last clip altogether. That way I can focus on just the climbing. A few other guys do this, too. I think it was the only way I could redpoint, since you HAVE to be fresh on the undercling move, and fuddling with the clip wastes precious juice.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: I vote for weighing the buckets. More accurate.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Oops... Perhaps I should clarify. When I was a kid, we used a sledge (as in large sledgehammer) to chop wood. We set a wedge on the piece of wood, and lo, we sledged the wedge till the wood split. In the case of my comp, I probably should have said "wood-chopping" instead of "sledging" since this isn't a wood-splitting comp—and neither party competing is likely to use the sledge-wedge method.

I apologize for writing without thinking. I suck.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: Bring it, Tom.

I have a great sledge competition idea:

1) two axes
2) two identically sized oak logs, roughly 12" in diameter
3) each competitor climbs Power 5 times in a row, without resting
4) each competitor immediately attempts to cut the log in half with the axe, as fast as he or she can
5) obviously, the tasks are timed from the second the competitor leaves the ground on Power, to the second the log splits in twain. Fastest time wins.

I will do this. Seriously. Any takers?


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