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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,374
Last Year: 591
Last 30 Days: 1
85 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1023 | Routes 94 | Areas 17 | Photos 140 | Page Improvments | Comments 479 | Posts 3 | Stars 223 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : Soot Patrol Boulder
By: andy patterson When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: People have been climbing a LONG time in that cave. There's no easy way to extricate FA info from the depths of history, so who knows. In any case, thanks for cleaning and climbing the line. Perhaps it will get more traffic, and become yet another classic B-yard traverse.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : the Labrador Ate the Cupcak... (5.6)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: You would be hard-pressed to find a 5.6 sport climb of higher quality in SB. Consistent, good rock, and longer than it looks.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: That morning Thomas and I each downed almost a half-gallon of coffee. It was a 7 a.m. session.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: I have great memories of climbing this problem at night, during the 4th of July firework show. Amazing location.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Candyland Boulders : The Diamond (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: A compelling combination of power, subtlety, and everything in between, The Diamond has it all. The first move appears to be a bonehead dyno—it's not. Snagging the huge rail takes a surprising amount of keen technique. For many, the real crux begins at the top. I've seen myriad methods of pinching, crimping, open-handing, and otherwise pawing the horrible granite slopers on the arete. Whatever you do, know this: the finish jug is comically good.

This boulder problem redefines—for me—the defini... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Housekeeping Bouldering : Prowess (V7 PG13)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: A little more detail: begin left of the Torque jug, kinda bear-hugging prow. There's a variety of starting pinches/slopers for left hand, and right hand should be on a sloping crimp. Perform a series of compression slaps and pulls, then join up with Torque for the glory-topout.

Do yourself a favor and clean the topout! Lotsa pine needles...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I'm totally confused...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: I always do this line at the end of the day, when the sun sifts through the trees and lights up the boulder.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Aztec Warrior is one of the coolest lines on Enlightenment Ridge.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Is this different than the problem that Darren calls Aztec Warrior?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: The crimp beneath Kyle's left hand is one of my top 5 favorite crimps in the world.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Hmm, I thought this WAS the Choadler. Climbed it a few weeks ago with Timmy tenderfingers. Seemed around V5. I remember it had a great deadpoint move, some tricky feet, and a high-ball topout. Awesome problem.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl...
By: andy patterson When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Here's how you find the trailhead:

santabarbarahikes.com/hikes/frontcountry/directions/index.sh>>>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Sick!

Mission is on. Richard, I'm thinking of just climbing it naked—for full value, of course.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Dude. I'm so in... if we can coordinate schedules. I've got access to lots of big gear. I have 1 WC #6, Bernd has a #6 BD and my buddy has tons of Big Bros.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: I've looked at this crack for years. I actually tried to go climb it this winter, but the road was closed due to ice. The picture of this route in the Steele/Tucker book is rad. Who knows? An offwidth renaissance could be approaching SB and Ventura counties...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Kyle, you're my hero.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: I love this problem. For a good friend of mine—a new climber—this was his first project. He sent after what seemed like fifty attempts. Even though he was only five feet off the deck, you don't often get to see someone so psyched.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Very, very cool. A crew of us from SB are coming with our cams to pluck the low-hanging (and hopefully high-hanging) fruit. So psyched!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Ant Traverse (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: This is so much harder now than when I first did it.

But I'm done whining...

Great traverse, and an absolute textbook on open-hand crimping.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Donner Memorial State Park : Split Rock East : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: What's the name of the rad little sit-start just right of this problem? I think it's a V7 or something in that ballpark...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Yowie Project (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: Bernd and I did the "dyno" start to the Yeti (also known as Yeti-direct). Different problem altogether, and clocks in around V7, depending on current state of erosion. The eliminate you describe here sounds like something I did a long time ago, but I think I might have used one of the big holds on Yeti. I can't remember. Whatever I did, it seemed harder than Yeti.

It's an eliminate, so either way you're mincing moves.

I think Bernd would say the same thing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain
By: andy patterson When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Road is open... according to my buddy Logan. He went there last weekend.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Gala Gala Happy (5.13d)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: After several consecutive weekends of digging out the bottom of The Sea (read: cross-training), Mr. Ball redpointed this rig at the first Annual Owltoberfest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : When The Sea Doesn't Want Y... (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: In recent news, Phil et al have been steadily digging away at the base of The Sea, adding holds on the wall as they go. So far, they've added about 8 extra feet of climbing movement to the start. If you can't keep going up, might as well go down, eh?


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