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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 33 mins ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 224
Total Points: 2,481
Last Year: 170
Last 30 Days: 5
103 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1084 | Routes 97 | Areas 19 | Photos 142 | Page Improvements | Comments 517 | Posts 6 | Stars 236 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Jeff, I'm not trying to say anything definitive about the actual grade: just that we climbed the wrong route, and it was a hoot. Best mistake of the season, in fact. Oh, and 5.9d is what I rate every route that's hard for me.

Just a story, not an editorial.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: A little anecdote regarding grade:

My buddy and I walked up to the PSOM slab, completely new to the area, and had no idea what route to get on. I heard tales about some "cruiser 5.9s" somewhere up and right of the lower routes, and armed with an old guidebook we attempted to find gold.

To make a long story short, we started up the John Fischer Memorial Route thinking it was Big Deal, which is apparently rated 5.9. Pitch after beautiful pitch unfolded before us, and while we secretly thought t... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Mystical Steps Towards Deat... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, if you try it in the sun, then everything goes to crap.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: It took a three-year off-and-on-again battle with Chips for me to appreciate the true nature of the Tor. And if you were lucky enough to watch Elijah wage war with Hardboiled (I was) then you really understand how long and protracted redpoint battles can be. The Tor is a brutal mistress, and will not be slandered.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : Bard-Harrington Finish (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Exposed as all get out! Short, and somewhat in your face. Makes you earn the summit.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : The Prow (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: My friend Bernd Zeugswetter and I climbed this in June. Perfect rock climb—with the exception of the funky 11ish climbing before the upper 12b portion. Bernd led the pitch very impressively, and climbed up and down the 5.11 portion several times before committing, then I followed clean. The lower portion isn't terribly hard, just weird and hard to protect since some of the flakes aren't totally solid. You CAN protect it, however. Just get creative.

The upper portion climbs like a 12b sport-cli... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Mystical Steps Towards Deat... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: This thing makes me cry. So tricky. I've never sent it easily.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Kelly's points are good:

The lighter we step, the longer we climb. Access will always be an issue around here.

Kelly, I noticed that Tyler et all were naming problems mainly out of clarity. I've spoken at length with Tyler about his development (or re-development, as it were) of areas around SB, and I think he would be psyched if you and others contributed FA info and names. That stuff makes for fun history. Same goes for the Creamery. I think everyone would gladly relinquish their "new" name... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Kelly, you are THE encyclopedia of bouldering around these parts. I didn't mean "hazy" as an insult. Respect, respect, respect.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: I have personally spoken with the manager of Windermere Ranch (in May), and he simply said "be careful, and don't do anything stupid". I introduced myself, explained who we were, and that was that. He seemed to be totally fine with things; his only concern was that we respect the "actual" Windermere Ranch boundaries—and that we didn't kill ourselves.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Bob, don't turn the rant off.

By the way, Grover didn't write the article; some out-of-towner did. Don't know him.

Grover loves the Tor.

To add to your comments regarding the B-yard: after the Gap Fire, the old B-yard trail disappeared and the new path hightailed it to the Yeti area. Basically, traffic at the Yard' thenceforth consisted of Yeti, Charlotte's Web, Grotesque Old Woman, Watch The Dog, Smooth Criminal, and Dancing Outlaw. Other areas fell in to relative obscurity. After ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: "lack of natural beauty"...

Hmmm. Disagree. Perhaps someone should un-invite the author to Owltoberfest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: andy patterson When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Sean, you're talking to a guy who has dug miles of trails... and this is a GREAT idea. We just have to figure out how to do it legally and not piss off the wrong parties. Do you have a proper idea of where to start cutting? Hit me up at 805-729-8146 or email at andy@sbforge.com

Digging and cutting trails is the only thing I love more than climbing. That, and my wife.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : A.C.L. (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: So it turns out that perhaps Bernd WASN'T the first ascentionist. We went to the Noir Boulder together and while he did recognize doing lines like Shake Junt, ACL didn't jog his memory. So Seth probably nabbed first crank.

Anyhoo, Bernd and I put this one down this last Thursday night, on a cool June evening. Awesome sesh, and very memorable. I spent about three sessions working the problem, then sent on the fourth, with good conditions and fresh tips. I'm not terribly confident in grading thi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Dances With Wolves (a.k.a. ... (V9+)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: it's a 40' long traverse.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Chunks O' Flesh (V1)
By: andy patterson When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: It finally occurred to me why this is called "Chunks of Flesh".

We held my wife's birthday at the BBQ boulder last Sunday, and cooked all sorts of greasy fare between intermittent laps on Chunks of Flesh. At some point, someone inadvertently smeared the high crimp with cooking-related grease, and every subsequent attempt of the problem resulted in an epic finger-pop slip from the crimp.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme... : Chimera (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: All I gotta say is uffda. Burly, to be sure.

Dean and I discussed this problem the other day, and we both agreed that provided you execute the moves with perfection, the sequence feels hard but doable—as in V7/8 doable. Personally, I lean towards Thomas's assessment of V8, but I too sent the problem on a hot day. I gotta say, if you botch any part of the sequence, or fudge your accuracy, then it all goes to crap and feels IMPOSSIBLE.

This problem should be on everyone's tick-list, if only f... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Pretzel Logic (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: Hard, painful, short...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Rattled by the Rush (V7+)
By: andy patterson When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: This is literally one of the finest boulder problems I've ever done in Santa Barbara. Perfectly describes the style of sandstone river-rock bouldering in the Canyons.

Here's a clip of the sequence:




Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme... : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. I think V5 seemed appropriate. The full sit-start does make it harder, though. Maybe not V6 harder, but climbing this face from the bum makes for a lot of awesome crimping!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Some actual geologists should weigh in, but I'm pretty sure the white stuff is some kind of cold water sandstone--and a particularly good batch at that. But it seems almost crystalline at times. Crazy good rock.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Olsmolke (V6-)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: I guess I do. Sans crashpad, too. I wouldn't have set off on this one, either, but I thought the big edge up and right (with the tick marks on it) was a jug. It wasn't. I'd actually say the top is the crux, even though it's not as burly as the bottom.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Olsmolke (V6-)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: The top is NOT as easy as it looks from the ground. Powerful low, technical high. Perfect boulder problem, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Brush Me Baby (V5+)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: It might be on the butt-dragger end of things, but the stone, movement, and crux keep you engaged. The finish will likely look easy, but don't be deceived: you may have to use your noggin on this one.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Okay, so I went here after reading Tyler's postings, and GOOD GOD, the rock quality is amazing. Seriously: it might have some of the best stone I've ever touched on the California Coast. You can actually have a solid session here, even though the volume of problems isn't as high as other areas. I can't believe I walked by these rocks for years, looked at them, and then just kept walking.


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