Comments: Yes, the winter of 2013-14 was one of the driest and warmest on record, but conditions on Serenity and Sons were utterly magnifique as of mid-March. It was like climbing durng a windy, crystal clear streak in late May or June. First pitch was damp (usually is anyway), but the rest of the route to the top was PERFECT.
Comments: I did this route about three years ago. It was NOT clean then. The climbing itself was good, but the upper pitches became considerably adventurous. I'm glad it's looking better. I thought the 2nd and 3rd pitches were pretty cool and rather demanding!
Comments: We always knew this would happen. The last time I tried the problem, I had this bad "feeling" when I got to the finger lock, and dropped off. There's alternate beta for sure--someone just has to commit!
Comments: Thanks, Galen. As I write this, my forearm and left hand ache with Poison Oak sores. Currently, the trail is quite good, and the First Come First Served boulder has great flat landings, despite its steep positioning.
Comments: I can currently start from the boulder back and left of Jack, jump to the "start" boulder, and leap to the jug. According to the rules (and there ARE rules), you can't re-set your feet upon landing on each boulder; you have to spring off the same leg you land upon.
Comments: Thomas nabbed the FA of Frigidaire on a balmy fall evening, ground-up, with a headlamp. Actually, he didn't have the headlamp—I did. I simply stood back, shined light where possible, and tried to spot Thomas. The higher he got, the less light I could offer. Watching Thomas execute the topout sans daylight and knowledge of the top holds was one of the proudest feats of bouldering I've witnessed in a long time. Next time you top out Frigidaire, imagine doing it basically in the dark, with no knowl... more >>
Comments: People have been climbing a LONG time in that cave. There's no easy way to extricate FA info from the depths of history, so who knows. In any case, thanks for cleaning and climbing the line. Perhaps it will get more traffic, and become yet another classic B-yard traverse.
Comments: A compelling combination of power, subtlety, and everything in between, The Diamond has it all. The first move appears to be a bonehead dyno—it's not. Snagging the huge rail takes a surprising amount of keen technique. For many, the real crux begins at the top. I've seen myriad methods of pinching, crimping, open-handing, and otherwise pawing the horrible granite slopers on the arete. Whatever you do, know this: the finish jug is comically good.
This boulder problem redefines—for me—the defini... more >>
Comments: A little more detail: begin left of the Torque jug, kinda bear-hugging prow. There's a variety of starting pinches/slopers for left hand, and right hand should be on a sloping crimp. Perform a series of compression slaps and pulls, then join up with Torque for the glory-topout.
Do yourself a favor and clean the topout! Lotsa pine needles...