Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Little Bear (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, and one more thing:
Try starting on the junky starting hold, and climb STRAIGHT up over the lip. Mega-burl shoulder wrenching problem. Haven't done it, pretty sure it goes.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Little Bear (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay, here's what I know.
Brian Spiering first listed this problem. He was one of the most stoked and explorative boulderers I've ever climbed with. I mean, this guy was hiking up San Ysidro creek to climb hyper-obscure V0's, and then he would blog about it. Awesome. Anyhoo, when he talked about Little Bear, he hadn't actually done the problem, he was just attempting to get folks psyched. He also hadn't done the SDS to Heaven on Top—to my knowledge. I did the latter problem from the sit, and th... more >>
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : The Conch (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha!
Nice work, Sean. Great face, with lots of subtle solutions. I started exactly as you did, moved slightly up left and then I moved up and right (crux). See where my left hand is in the picture? That's where I got my feet set up, then executed the move up and right to the big "ledge" on LOTF. That was the crux. It sounds like you took more of a direct approach. We tried both ways, and thought my way was fun, since you do this crazy barn-door move.
Totally rad boulder. Glad you had fun!
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Windwalker (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bernd and I did it years ago. About three or four, if memory serves. We thought it was a V7, and we didn't name it. Sean, if you can think of a moniker, be my guest.
I like this line. Grunty. Burl. Fun.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: andy patterson When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay, EVERYONE stop what they're doing right now and email these guys. I haven't finished my coffee yet, so I'm possibly not in the right frame of mind, but this has got to stop.
Here's some contact info for one of the dudes: www.facebook.com/alanavila08
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering
By: andy patterson When: Dec 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both Kelly L. and I have amassed information and topos. Kelly leans towards the bouldering stuff. I have loads of info about local pebble-wrestling (new and old), and a good chunk of topos for obscure new routes. Bob is right: the workload is large, the rewards are few, and the labor must be out of pure love for the areas (or out of a severely deranged mental disposition).
Bob, you do realize you will be the de facto editor, right? Sorry.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Klingon (5.9 R)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Matt means that the belaying ledge falls away BEHIND the belayer (depends on where you're belaying from). If you're not careful when lowering your partner to the ground, there could be a tumble. When climbing the route, there's no serious swing for the climber that I can remember. It's all in the vertical-to-off-vertical angle.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : To a Grave (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim is right. The sit makes things much, much better.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Carmel River State Beach (a... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed. But hey, it's a nature pic. Nature's nice, I guess. But so is climbing.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Crash Landing (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wish things were longer? Once you hit the anchors of Crash Landing, clip in a looong sling, traverse about fifteen feet right, join Perched (5.10d) at the roof, and finish at the chains of Perched. A big pitch, to be sure. It's likely a 60m would work, but we used a 70. Better safe than sorry.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Aurora (5.13a)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bottom half of the route won't change your life, but the headwall is just good-ol'-fashioned fun rock-climbing. Go ahead, gun for the jugs (there's lots of them) and take perfectly clean whippers when your forearms explode.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : From Chocolate to Morphine (5.11d)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best 11d in the Gorge.
With continuously fun movement, aesthetic position, and long character, this climb typifies all that is fun and scenic about the Owens River Gorge. Do it!
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Clawing at the Walls (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure my sends of this problem don't count, since I wasn't wearing anything near as cool as Steve's threads.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : She Didn't Want Me To Do It (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic. I was worried the story was going to be decidedly unrepeatable. Glad there's a happy ending.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : She Didn't Want Me To Do It (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who is the "she" in title of the problem? I'm sure that's privileged information, but I can't help but be curious.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Sword In The Stone (5.10a)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed: one of the finest of its grade in SB.
There is a slightly loose section near the last bolt, but you can avoid the manky holds quite easily. If you're breaking in to the 5.9+/5.10a leading game, this is a great route to try.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Anchor Punch (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this route wasn't sandbagged already, a pretty useful hold broke at the beginning, making things a bit more grim. Still 12a, but you gotta earn every inch. Try this route at the end of your Tor session for full value.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Better Than Life (5.13c)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I started working on this route last Saturday at the behest of Phil. I haven't tried every route at the Tor, but I can't imagine things get much better than this rig. I've rarely had so much fun climbing (and falling) on a route.
A note to those working the line: your right hand gets WORKED. There's really no "rest" for your right hand till you get near the top, and by that time things look pretty grim. Climb fast.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Westmont College Boulder : Honk If You love Jesus (V5+)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is so rad. Extremely low-percentage (for me), and consists of two hard hand-movements. If that's not the definition of a good problem, I don't know what is.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Myth of Silenus (V3)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the bouldering problems all need to be moved. In all honesty, I didn't have time to move them at the time of their arrival. That, and it seemed a little funny to make a SY bouldering area page. But what the heck, if a chap is psyched, then good on him.
I'll get it done nonetheless.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering
By: andy patterson When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First things first, Tom:
Get O11.
Way to be psyched.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Yeti (V4)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both are acceptable, in my opinion. I know climbers who are terrified to go left, but comfortable with the straight up version, and vice versa. Nice work!
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Cold Springs Dome : Post Modern Retro Classic (5.10b)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The angled blocks at the start of this line sound purdy hollow... Other than that, the top moves are fantastic. Excellently positioned route with great exposure.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes. I know the feeling.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : Caveman
By: andy patterson When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We migrated the Caveman stuff to here:
mountainproject.com/v/potters-point/107791416
|
RSS Feed
