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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 216
Total Points: 2,616
Last Year: 246
Last 30 Days: 113
108 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1128 | Routes 102 | Areas 20 | Photos 153 | Page Improvements | Comments 531 | Posts 6 | Stars 247 | Ratings 69
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: So the 5.12 face was the original route bearing the name Goulara?

That's actually very interesting—-I didn't know that. I was truly under the impression the arete was the original line. I do recall the last two bolts being relatively far RIGHT of the arete, which is why I always led out on to the face for that section. At the very least, I'm learning some good history from this discussion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: I'm guessing they bolted (or intended to bolt) the direct line up the face, the one that goes at somewhere around 5.12. Matt, is this what you're referring to? Is it possible they misread the line and encroached on Goulara? I'm having trouble recalling exactly how far right or left the route starts. Either way, Goulara shouldn't have been touched, but it seems the 5.12 (currently unnamed) could have bolts of its own, since in my memory it was substantially to the right of Goulara. Am I way off b... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : SickyGnarGnar (V4)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Way to put this area on the database! It's a modest boulder, to be sure, but worth noting. Jake Novotny and I spent several sessions in 2012 doing every possible problem we could think of on that boulder (including some R to L traversing nonsense that was fairly hard), so while I can't claim we did EXACTLY what you did, I'm 79% certain we did that problem. I'm not gonna push the issue, and you can name it whatever you want. What's more, someone probably did it before us, too.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: andy patterson When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: I concur:

I was up here for the first time since my son was born, and the trail was on the shabby side. It doesn't take much: just wack away the PO every time you head up the trail. Many hands make light work, and that sort of thing. This is a great bouldering locale. Let's keep it accessible!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. D... (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: Ah well. It's a chossy boulder to begin with. I'm optimistic you can start from the far left sit——it'll just be that much more demanding. I haven't been up there in ages, but my guess the holds on that rig have gotten much more weathered and plastered with chalk and hand-smarm. I guarantee more holds will break, too...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Lower Mission Canyon / Seve... : Seven Falls Area : Leviticus (5.12d)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Don't worry, the first jam isn't the crux. This route has seen multiple breakages (read: a breakage every time someone tries to redpoint it), but it still holds true at the grade.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Good shot of my beautiful wife. I can't wait till my infant son grows up and finds this picture. Mama has guns...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Toxic Waste Wall
By: andy patterson When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Besides the brush growing mostly back, I don't have any updates on the climbing at Toxic and Upper. Some buddies of mine recently headed up to Upper Gibraltar and had a good time, so I'm going to assume that things are at least climbable.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : Cookies and Crimps (V4)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, it does up the difficulty to about Sucker Punch.

Bernd did that with me a few seasons ago. He didn't even try the stand first, in my memory. Just went straight to the sit. Thanks for cleaning it up, Tim. I'm psyched that people are still going to the Creamery.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : Whiskey and Success (V12+)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: After talking to Thomas, the stand-start to this problem seems to be in the V11 range. No one has repeated it, so I can't confirm anything. I've worked the problem a bit, and while I haven't sent this or any other V11, I do find that grade to be appropriate—judging from my experience on other problems. Thomas conjectured that the sit-start seems to be around V12+, hence the attached grade to the problem.

Sorry for the all the disclaimers/vagueness/estimations. Thus is the prospect of grading p... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder
By: andy patterson When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: Micah, I remember that as well. I think it was a traversing problem, but I think it was up the hill at Upper Noir (I could totally be wrong). If you go there, you can find a nice little cave that has an obvious sit-start with an obvious L-R trend, finishing on a crux "up" move. I recall Mr. Dusatko and company meandering up there and establishing problems, and while I think they rated said problem on the steeper side of things, I believe It clocks in around V6 or V7. Hard, but not V10. I should ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 11, 2015

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Comments: Jan, I'm not surprised Simpson epoxies work well for you. I've never placed a climbing anchor using a Simpson product, but I've placed COUNTLESS other anchors supporting substantial weight using Simpson epoxy (background: I'm an ornamental ironworker, and I make lots of heavy iron things that hang off buildings). I've noticed that Simpson epoxy performs very well in porous/chossy contexts, mostly because the epoxy is pre-mixed BEFORE it goes in the hole—at least when I use it. Also, once the epo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Steve. I have been replacing bolts here and there as time and money allows, but it's a big job. Steve, my opinion on glue-ins in SB is somewhat mixed. Choss is still choss, and I've seen massive glue-ins simply attach themselves to the sandy crud in to which they've been placed, and after a few months they start wiggling. It happened at San Ysidro a few years back. Totally contextual. I think the Rawls are by far the easiest, most versatile, cheapest, and all-around best bolts for S... more >>


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Lethal Rock : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: This is the perfect Steve shot. Style supreme.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: Yes! Thanks for the time and effort. And you restored the route on the same day Tommy and Kevin topped out the Dawn Wall!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : King Dinosaur (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 1, 2015

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Comments: A quick note about this problem and my relationship with it:

When I was climbing all the time in my twenties, I used to work this problem every now and then, but always got absolutely shut down. The crimp was too small, too sharp, and I was too much a wuss. Then, I started a business, got married, got a dog, had a kid, got super busy, and basically didn't go to the Mouth for a long, long time. And this last season, I hung out exclusively in my garage for one-hour chunks of time and sessioned on... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 1, 2015

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Comments: Jan,

I concur: I'd like to convene with other climbers to address everything you mentioned—particularly the beer topic. In all reality, there's not that many of us who put up new routes, so it might be a small gathering, but I would enjoy hearing other's perspectives. My shop is just around the corner from American Ale, Joe's Cafe, and I always enjoy the Brewhouse. Weirdest menu in SB! If any of you folks are interested, call or text me at 805-729-8146. My email is andy@sbforge.com.

Menzo,

Th... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 31, 2014

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Comments: Heh, heh.

Bob, impressively stated.

If anyone is planning on going up to remove the bolt, let me know. I can A) contribute tools and/or B) heat up the offending hardware in my forge, press it in to a gnarled ball of corrupted steel in my 200 Ton Hydraulic Press, and hang it on the sign at the trailhead as a warning to would-be offenders. Seriously. I can make that happen.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 31, 2014

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Comments: When bolting new routes in Santa Barbara, I hope climbers follow the following criteria:

1) Respect the integrity of existing routes
2) Use discretion
3) Use your head

Bolting will always be controversial on some level, but in my opinion, this act of retro-bolting Vanishing Flakes doesn't follow the above criteria. The pin on VF was always quite solid (see Matthew Fienup's entry) and even if it wasn't, this route demands some historical respect. I mean, this is SAN YSIDRO for crying out loud. ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Dec 14, 2014

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Comments: Wow, I can't remember when I last saw that much water.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: I believe you guys are on Silent Mind, 5.11b.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Endless Summer Boulder : The Endless Summer (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Take the rating with a grain of salt. I sessioned the problem with Ray Martin, and he and I agreed on the V8/9ish rating. I personally think it's harder than Dancing Outlaw and She Made Me Do It, but rather easier than Verisimilitude and First Come First Served (the "real" version). The crux is the first move, and pulling over the bulge presents some difficulties as well. The top isn't super hard, just airy.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: andy patterson When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Getting to the Fun in the Sun cliff requires a small amount of climbing or steep hiking—no matter what option you choose. If you veer right, up a steep climber's trail right before you get to "Labradors", you will eventually arrive at The Lower Alchemist crag. From there, you just follow the cliff to the base of Fun in the Sun (and along the way you encounter some easy 5th class scrambling).

Cheers, and have fun!

Andy


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the detailed description, Matthew! You beat me to the punch. I was in the middle of drawing some more maps when I saw your description. I'll put out an "overview map" soon, but I wanted to get something up about this route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : The Fast and the Flurrious (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: I've heard some people argue about the grading. There's a bunch of ways to do this problem, and all of them feel dramatically different—in my opinion. Take the V7 grade with a grain of salt. The way Bernd, myself, Dean, and Thomas first did the problem was hard-ish, but I know problems have a way of settling over time.

This little boulder affords amazing rock. I love the left hand sloping crimp with the tiny shred-your-tips imbedded crystal.


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