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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,369
Last Year: 599
Last 30 Days: 14
83 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1018 | Routes 94 | Areas 17 | Photos 140 | Page Improvments | Comments 474 | Posts 3 | Stars 223 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Olsmolke (V6-)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: I guess I do. Sans crashpad, too. I wouldn't have set off on this one, either, but I thought the big edge up and right (with the tick marks on it) was a jug. It wasn't. I'd actually say the top is the crux, even though it's not as burly as the bottom.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Olsmolke (V6-)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: The top is NOT as easy as it looks from the ground. Powerful low, technical high. Perfect boulder problem, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Brush Me Baby (V5+)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: It might be on the butt-dragger end of things, but the stone, movement, and crux keep you engaged. The finish will likely look easy, but don't be deceived: you may have to use your noggin on this one.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Okay, so I went here after reading Tyler's postings, and GOOD GOD, the rock quality is amazing. Seriously: it might have some of the best stone I've ever touched on the California Coast. You can actually have a solid session here, even though the volume of problems isn't as high as other areas. I can't believe I walked by these rocks for years, looked at them, and then just kept walking.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Little Johnny Pockets (V1-2)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Amazing warmup. Taller than the photo of the rock would suggest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Spit Shine (V1-2)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: This moderate evokes the serious nature of Sierra Highballs! Proud, for sure. Crazy good stone with beautiful positioning. It felt like you could exit left early (and deprive yourself of the "true experience") or even exit up and left of the tree on top.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: As always, way to be intrepid! When I was at Westmont back in 2001, and just getting in to climbing, I did a little bit of exploring up there, but it never amounted to much. Usually, we had ropes with us, and were on our way to the Tangerine Falls sport climbs. I can't tell you how many times we looked at those boulders and said "hmmm, there's probably some good problems..."

But again, we never did anything about it. Tony Becchio et al might know more. I think they spent more time back there. C... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Tyler. I've got a bunch in the queue. May this area will be next...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : The Wicked Duke Takes a Wif... (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: One more thing:

We always topped out the route sort of to the left, on a hand-crack just right of the anchors to Sword In The Stone. There's a lot of ways to finish, but this one had the best rock and coolest moves, and it made it convenient to lower off the SITS anchors. Also, for gear-junkies, there a amazing little pod that accepts a perfect #1 Camalot before you enter said penultimate hand-crack.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Is that warpaint? Facepaint? Same thing?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : West Nile Boulder (aka The ... : Le Bernd (V4-5)
By: andy patterson When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Left hand on sloper, right hand on open-hand edge, deadpoint with left hand to decent open-hand edge, then step LEFT foot high and midline to smeary hold, and high-step right out to hard-to-see foot. Once you weight the foot, it's mostly over. Top-out is more or less straight up from there. I do grab the finish jug of West Nile with my left hand, but that's literally as I top out.

I promise you I'm not being a sandbagger! It is tricky to figure out, but definitely in the V4-5 range.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : The Wicked Duke Takes a Wif... (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: We called this line "The Wicked Duke Takes A Wife", after a hilarious romance novel cover we saw at a used bookstore. No, I wasn't perusing the Romance Section. Even if I was, it's none of your business.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Stone Cold Stunner (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Grading was tricky. Thomas did it first, then me, then Dean. All of us thought it was in the 7-8 ballpark. But that's just three opinions. Personally, I grade traverses based on She Made Me Do It, which I believe is THE benchmark for V8 (locally), and a litmus test for how easy or hard something claims to be. Stone Cold Stunner felt about as hard as She Made Me Do It—maybe slightly easier, but not by much.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Unknown (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: I could be wrong, but the problem referenced in the book actually refers to the LEFT exit. Same start as you described, but you bust left pretty early, grab a devious-but-awesome-looking thin crimp, and do some very, very hard presses on sloping holds. Way, way harder than V7, and judging by the look of the photo, full of moss at the moment.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Paradise Road : Gold Chasm : Swift Trip (5.11a/b)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Heck no.

Replace away!

Someday I'll go back and climb that crack again. I remember really enjoying it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : First Come First Served (V10 PG13)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: For the record, it took me like 175 attempts of the OPENING MOVE to send this. Longest battle with a problem I've ever had.

It was dark, and all I had was a headlamp and a particularly potent blend of coffee and hot-chocolate.

So satisfying to send.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : West Nile Boulder (aka The ... : Countdown To Extinction (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: I think this is one of the best problems in Santa Barbara. In my top-ten for sure. Great rock!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme... : TallWall Boulder (V6-7)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: The Red Line was always the popular "up" line on this stone. When Darren Odgers showed me around here years ago, we seemed to think it was V5. Whatever, who really cares. The climbing is great. The inimitable Joel (also known as Acid Joel... sorry if that's a deprecatory handle, Joel, but literally everyone I know called him by that name) climbed here TONS. Anyhoo, the rock is actually better than it looks (sometimes).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder
By: andy patterson When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: While it has fallen in to disuse in recent years (until recently), The Noir boulder has seen lots of attention from key players and psyched boulder-seekers like Russell Erickson (who initially cleaned the boulder), Jason Kamen, Bernd Zeugswetter, and Brian Spiering—to name just a few. Back in 2003 or 2004 (I think) I remember Jason Kamen working some hard traversing lines L-R, and I know for a fact that Bernd did literally every single hard "up" line in the creekbed, including Shake Junt (a la t... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme... : Memorial Problem (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Suspect foothold has broken... while I was literally going to top the dang thing out. My bad. There is still a foothold there, it just isn't very big. It's maybe a half-grade harder? We'll see. This is an excellent problem, by the way.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Shake Junt (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Also, I know Jackson added a low-low-start when he moved the boulder, but Bernd topped this out, along with a bunch of other lines here, over five years ago.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town
By: andy patterson When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I gotta admit, when Jeff first told me about Panic Town, I was skeptical. I've searched and bushwhacked the canyons behind SB looking for routes, only to have my hopes repeatedly dashed. And how many times have you heard an overzealous local touting "untapped potential" in thar hills?

Panic Town may have a "long" approach by some standards, but when you factor in house-to-crag time, and the sheer number of vertical feet available, Panic Town is not only a convenient destination, it might be th... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Shake Junt (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: Great work on the landing, guys! This problem follows a tempting line of pockets, and gets savage at the very, very top! Not a gimme. I sent after working the moves for about 30 minutes, but I am a tad taller than my climbing partners (who happen to be a tad burlier than I), so I reeled this one in without too much drama. Still, the top-out was quite hard, and doesn't really favor the tall or the short. That said, the lower crux is STIFF for shorties.

Tim King attempts the top-out.
Tim King attempts the top-out.



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard
By: andy patterson When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Jack: when you turn off the 154 on to West Camino Cielo, drive 3.4 miles. The pullouts are on the left and right. Walk down path towards ocean to boulders.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Timeless (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: I climbed to the top of the Pillar via Land Before Time (5.10a), then did the rest of Timeless as a 2nd pitch (didn't know at the time that Timeless could be done as one, singular pitch). Anyhoo, the zig-zag crack on Timeless has become my new favorite stretch of rock on the Warning Signs cliff. Absolutely wild and exposed: you'll feel like you're in Yosemite, high up on some classic grade IV... except for the fact that you are clipping bolts. Super, super fun.


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