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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Static Head (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Baby Eliminator" sounds kinda creepy.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Enter Sandman (V10-11)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thomas made it clear to me that he merely suggests V10-11. He encourages others to try the problem and comment on their perspective.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Bandito (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wait to go, guys! The first encounter I had with this problem was back in 2010, with my friend Jake Novotny. After scrubbing the holds one afternoon, we started the problem down and left of the bump-rails, with our left hand on that sharp pocket thingy. From there, we climbed straight up in to the "bump" moves. Beginning on Dancing Outlaw looks better. At the time, we thought the top was pretty hard. We suggested a potential grade of V9 (we never did it) back then, and it looks like we may have ... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Heavy Traffic (V3)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, those little "contrivances" have been done since the 80's. I remember Joel (long-haired variety) showing me his circuit on that face ten years ago.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. D... (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just found a silly iPhone video of me climbing ZA. The inimitable Ian Walters filming.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : The Shard (5.12c R)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, guys.
There were certainly some yells of success/elation. I was so relieved! I felt iffy on the LAST crimp moves of the Self Reflection headwall, and was thinking to myself "man, if I slipped right now, it's sure going to suck to have to do all that again..."
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Happy to be Here (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unless I'm mistaken, isn't this the ONLY route of its grade at the Tor? I'm not up-to-date on the new routes.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Should I Go (aka El Potrero... (5.10b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Should I Stay" has five bolts, and a great crux down low. Looks harder than it feels.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Color Blind (aka Rubber Man... (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux down low features some bad feet and a fantastic "mini" roof which you can undercling or gaston. After that, there's a nice romp up a right-trending edge-system. At the top of the edge-system, you will find a flat ledge, about eight inches wide. You might cop a rest here, but keep in mind that the edge isn't long for this world. I could easily flex it about 1/16-1/8 out from the wall with mild hand pressure. Take care! Other than that, this route sports excellent rock.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Cleaning Lady (5.10-)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoyed this even more than Rubber Man. Surprisingly sustained climbing up high! Also a little bit longer than Rubber Man.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello"
By: andy patterson When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fresno Dome has exceptionally hard rock. In fact, it vaunts some of the best "chickenhead" climbing anywhere, with bullet-hard patina slabs to boot. I was shocked by how amazing the routes were—and the curious (but not lamented) lack of crowds! This place is a GEM. With great camping, a relatively short drive to town, and gobs of routes at all grades (including lots of potential), Fresno Dome is a fantastic alternative/addition to Yosemite Valley.
I love this place and can't wait to go back!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" : Willow Creek Wall : Unnamed (5.11c)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember being very, very excited to do the crux—only to discover that runout slabs awaited me. Stay with it! Holds and feet appear on a need-to-know basis.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, I'm glad we're finally talking about this.
Bob, thanks for clearing up the Mutants Amok issue. I thought the glue was keeping the hold on the wall, and I did interpret that as "reinforcement" on some level. And, to add my voice to the consensus: I agree with Bob that glue simply doesn't last in SB, or on any of the choss in proximity to SB (again, read: Echo Cliffs, where you undergo paroxysms of terror whilst grabbing every single glued hold). So based on that issue alone, I think gluin... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mutanks Amok has tons of epoxy. Based on that precedent (i.e. if the problem is super good) I say use epoxy. Talk to me (or Phil) if you want to do it right.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Wet Work Dihedral (5.10 V1 R)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's a list of noteworthy (in some circles) folks who could have/probably climbed this line prior to 2012:
Yvon Chouinard
Tim McMahon
Bill Bancroft
Rick Mosher
Amos Clifford
Steve Tucker
Chuck Fitch
Gary Anderson
Mike Forkash
Kevin Brown
Curt Dixon
Thor Archer
Menzo Baird
To name just a few. I know I'm missing some. If nothing else, you get an idea of some SB history.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Worst Idea Of The Century C... (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Conrats, Jon!
You officially have the 2nd Ascent of this "gem". I honestly never thought ANYONE would go do it after me. But, you gotta admit, it's kind of a lot of climbing for one little problem.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Finn Goes To Kindergarten (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: So named because Finn (Bernd's son) was starting Kindergarten soon after the send. Finn was cheering us on, so it seemed only appropriate. The rock at the start isn't the finest, otherwise this problem would warrant more stars.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Crossfire Crag : Double Kneebar Ranch (5.12b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I first climbed this post-undercling breakage, so I've never known it any other way. Definitely harder than 12b, but 12d seems slightly high. I think it's solid at 12c. This is one of those climbs you kind of just have to say is "hardish" 12, without getting hung up on specific letter grades. I've only climbed NJC over a hand-full of visits, so I lack comparisons. I did climb You Don't Know Jack (5.12c) and I thought Double Kneebar Ranch was longer, a bit more powerful, and slightly harder—at le... more >>
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Same Same but Different (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're at your limit leading this grade, it's tempting to "step over" to the left and stem on the dihedral. Resist! Don't deny yourself the great top-out at the end.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Route 66 (5.9)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm sorry you disapprove, Matt. Yeah, there's some looseness around NJC, but I'm going to side with everyone else here and praise this climb. The great thing about this route is the pace it requires; no matter how strong you are, you have to climb it slow and read the sequences.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Sunnyside : Red hot (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second that. If you blow it while pulling rope on the 2nd bolt, the ground is pretty hard. Very cool first moves.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Chocolate Wall : Death by Chocolate (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great positioning. I thought the roof crux was pretty spooky. If that clipping jug goes while pulling up rope (and it WILL some day), the ground is going to feel pretty hard.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : White Wall : Choptop (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of the better rock at Echo, in my opinion.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : Top of the world/Entry way
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kauk Slab? Sheesh, I'd be surprised if anyone has even looked at it in the last eight years. Bob? Anyone?
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Windwalker (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Done. Great name. I changed it on the heading.
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