Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 224
Total Points: 2,481
Last Year: 170
Last 30 Days: 5
103 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1084 | Routes 97 | Areas 19 | Photos 142 | Page Improvements | Comments 517 | Posts 6 | Stars 236 | Ratings 67
Page 2 of 21.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yes! Thanks for the time and effort. And you restored the route on the same day Tommy and Kevin topped out the Dawn Wall!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : King Dinosaur (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A quick note about this problem and my relationship with it:

When I was climbing all the time in my twenties, I used to work this problem every now and then, but always got absolutely shut down. The crimp was too small, too sharp, and I was too much a wuss. Then, I started a business, got married, got a dog, had a kid, got super busy, and basically didn't go to the Mouth for a long, long time. And this last season, I hung out exclusively in my garage for one-hour chunks of time and sessioned on... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Jan,

I concur: I'd like to convene with other climbers to address everything you mentioned—particularly the beer topic. In all reality, there's not that many of us who put up new routes, so it might be a small gathering, but I would enjoy hearing other's perspectives. My shop is just around the corner from American Ale, Joe's Cafe, and I always enjoy the Brewhouse. Weirdest menu in SB! If any of you folks are interested, call or text me at 805-729-8146. My email is andy@sbforge.com.

Menzo,

Th... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Heh, heh.

Bob, impressively stated.

If anyone is planning on going up to remove the bolt, let me know. I can A) contribute tools and/or B) heat up the offending hardware in my forge, press it in to a gnarled ball of corrupted steel in my 200 Ton Hydraulic Press, and hang it on the sign at the trailhead as a warning to would-be offenders. Seriously. I can make that happen.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: When bolting new routes in Santa Barbara, I hope climbers follow the following criteria:

1) Respect the integrity of existing routes
2) Use discretion
3) Use your head

Bolting will always be controversial on some level, but in my opinion, this act of retro-bolting Vanishing Flakes doesn't follow the above criteria. The pin on VF was always quite solid (see Matthew Fienup's entry) and even if it wasn't, this route demands some historical respect. I mean, this is SAN YSIDRO for crying out loud. ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Dec 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, I can't remember when I last saw that much water.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I believe you guys are on Silent Mind, 5.11b.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Endless Summer Boulder : The Endless Summer (V8)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Take the rating with a grain of salt. I sessioned the problem with Ray Martin, and he and I agreed on the V8/9ish rating. I personally think it's harder than Dancing Outlaw and She Made Me Do It, but rather easier than Verisimilitude and First Come First Served (the "real" version). The crux is the first move, and pulling over the bulge presents some difficulties as well. The top isn't super hard, just airy.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: andy patterson When: Oct 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Getting to the Fun in the Sun cliff requires a small amount of climbing or steep hiking—no matter what option you choose. If you veer right, up a steep climber's trail right before you get to "Labradors", you will eventually arrive at The Lower Alchemist crag. From there, you just follow the cliff to the base of Fun in the Sun (and along the way you encounter some easy 5th class scrambling).

Cheers, and have fun!

Andy


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the detailed description, Matthew! You beat me to the punch. I was in the middle of drawing some more maps when I saw your description. I'll put out an "overview map" soon, but I wanted to get something up about this route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : The Fast and the Flurrious (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've heard some people argue about the grading. There's a bunch of ways to do this problem, and all of them feel dramatically different—in my opinion. Take the V7 grade with a grain of salt. The way Bernd, myself, Dean, and Thomas first did the problem was hard-ish, but I know problems have a way of settling over time.

This little boulder affords amazing rock. I love the left hand sloping crimp with the tiny shred-your-tips imbedded crystal.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Get after it, Duke!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I hope Chuck Ethics sells t-shirts. Incredible name.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Honest question to Michael: how does the line climb? Good? Awesome? I'll be going out there next week, and was hoping to check out the new routes. All ribbing aside, thanks for bolting. Always appreciated.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: True, Richard, true.

All of us (especially me, since I run the family blacksmithing business and am expecting a kid ANY day now) probably have better things to do than troll the internet and criticize people. But man, it is tempting sometimes...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Disappointing name, indeed. I'm tempted to leave the name—and all of our accompanying comments—on the page so that the first-ascentionists succumb to peer pressure and use their imaginations to better ends.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : White Cougar (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Tried that. Phil and Elijah yelled at me and I kept climbing out of sheer humiliation.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Prohibition Traverse (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Oh, and kudos to anyone who sends this in 75+ degree weather. Those pinches get smarmy.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : The Black Death (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Here's a video of the FA:



Actual climbing begins at 1:35. Sorry for the unedited version.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : West Nile Boulder (aka The ... : Le Bernd (V4-5)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sean, I'm flattered.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Prohibition Traverse (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm 78% confident I did this first, after a session with longtime local Jason Kamen. He showed me the line, I finished it. I can't prove anything, so who cares. Good problem.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Every bit as good as people say it is. Great for the burgeoning 5.8 leader.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : What Have You Done with My ... (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I absolutely loved this route. Once someone (Bueller... Bueller) cleans the leaves out of the cracks, there's some nice finger-locks, hand-jams, and rather elegant face moves. Once I neared the top, I stepped left to finish on the upper face of Birthday Party, making for a diagonal exploration of the Tower. I highly recommend this variation!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : Birthday Party (5.7)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good adventure. Cruddy stuff down low, but worth the effort for the awesome upper sections and cool tower belay station.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 1 : Lovely Snowball (5.7+)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Matthew: one of the more engaging routes in the area of this grade and style. I also agree with Matthew's "variation" suggestion towards the top. As with many routes at Panic Town, you can climb left or right on to adjacent routes. Call it choose-your-own-adventure.


Page 2 of 21.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!