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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 218
Total Points: 2,445
Last Year: 370
Last 30 Days: 1
91 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1043 | Routes 96 | Areas 19 | Photos 142 | Page Improvements | Comments 489 | Posts 3 | Stars 227 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : The Prow (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: My friend Bernd Zeugswetter and I climbed this in June. Perfect rock climb—with the exception of the funky 11ish climbing before the upper 12b portion. Bernd onsighted the pitch (very impressively, I might add—he climbed up and down the 5.11 portion several times before committing) and I followed clean as I well. The lower portion isn't terribly hard, just weird and hard to protect since some of the flakes aren't totally solid. You CAN protect it, however. Just get creative.

The upper portion ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Mystical Steps Towards Deat... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: This thing makes me cry. So tricky. I've never sent it easily.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Kelly's points are good:

The lighter we step, the longer we climb. Access will always be an issue around here.

Kelly, I noticed that Tyler et all were naming problems mainly out of clarity. I've spoken at length with Tyler about his development (or re-development, as it were) of areas around SB, and I think he would be psyched if you and others contributed FA info and names. That stuff makes for fun history. Same goes for the Creamery. I think everyone would gladly relinquish their "new" name... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Kelly, you are THE encyclopedia of bouldering around these parts. I didn't mean "hazy" as an insult. Respect, respect, respect.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: I have personally spoken with the manager of Windermere Ranch (in May), and he simply said "be careful, and don't do anything stupid". I introduced myself, explained who we were, and that was that. He seemed to be totally fine with things; his only concern was that we respect the "actual" Windermere Ranch boundaries—and that we didn't kill ourselves.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Bob, don't turn the rant off.

By the way, Grover didn't write the article; some out-of-towner did. Don't know him.

Grover loves the Tor.

To add to your comments regarding the B-yard: after the Gap Fire, the old B-yard trail disappeared and the new path hightailed it to the Yeti area. Basically, traffic at the Yard' thenceforth consisted of Yeti, Charlotte's Web, Grotesque Old Woman, Watch The Dog, Smooth Criminal, and Dancing Outlaw. Other areas fell in to relative obscurity. After ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: "lack of natural beauty"...

Hmmm. Disagree. Perhaps someone should un-invite the author to Owltoberfest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: andy patterson When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Sean, you're talking to a guy who has dug miles of trails... and this is a GREAT idea. We just have to figure out how to do it legally and not piss off the wrong parties. Do you have a proper idea of where to start cutting? Hit me up at 805-729-8146 or email at andy@sbforge.com

Digging and cutting trails is the only thing I love more than climbing. That, and my wife.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : A.C.L. (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: So it turns out that perhaps Bernd WASN'T the first ascentionist. We went to the Noir Boulder together and while he did recognize doing lines like Shake Junt, ACL didn't jog his memory. So Seth probably nabbed first crank.

Anyhoo, Bernd and I put this one down this last Thursday night, on a cool June evening. Awesome sesh, and very memorable. I spent about three sessions working the problem, then sent on the fourth, with good conditions and fresh tips. I'm not terribly confident in grading thi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Dances With Wolves (a.k.a. ... (V9+)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: it's a 40' long traverse.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Chunks O' Flesh (V1)
By: andy patterson When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: It finally occurred to me why this is called "Chunks of Flesh".

We held my wife's birthday at the BBQ boulder last Sunday, and cooked all sorts of greasy fare between intermittent laps on Chunks of Flesh. At some point, someone inadvertently smeared the high crimp with cooking-related grease, and every subsequent attempt of the problem resulted in an epic finger-pop slip from the crimp.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme... : Chimera (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: All I gotta say is uffda. Burly, to be sure.

Dean and I discussed this problem the other day, and we both agreed that provided you execute the moves with perfection, the sequence feels hard but doable—as in V7/8 doable. Personally, I lean towards Thomas's assessment of V8, but I too sent the problem on a hot day. I gotta say, if you botch any part of the sequence, or fudge your accuracy, then it all goes to crap and feels IMPOSSIBLE.

This problem should be on everyone's tick-list, if only f... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Pretzel Logic (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: Hard, painful, short...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Rattled by the Rush (V7+)
By: andy patterson When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: This is literally one of the finest boulder problems I've ever done in Santa Barbara. Perfectly describes the style of sandstone river-rock bouldering in the Canyons.

Here's a clip of the sequence:




Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme... : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. I think V5 seemed appropriate. The full sit-start does make it harder, though. Maybe not V6 harder, but climbing this face from the bum makes for a lot of awesome crimping!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Some actual geologists should weigh in, but I'm pretty sure the white stuff is some kind of cold water sandstone--and a particularly good batch at that. But it seems almost crystalline at times. Crazy good rock.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Olsmolke (V6-)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: I guess I do. Sans crashpad, too. I wouldn't have set off on this one, either, but I thought the big edge up and right (with the tick marks on it) was a jug. It wasn't. I'd actually say the top is the crux, even though it's not as burly as the bottom.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Olsmolke (V6-)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: The top is NOT as easy as it looks from the ground. Powerful low, technical high. Perfect boulder problem, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Brush Me Baby (V5+)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: It might be on the butt-dragger end of things, but the stone, movement, and crux keep you engaged. The finish will likely look easy, but don't be deceived: you may have to use your noggin on this one.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Okay, so I went here after reading Tyler's postings, and GOOD GOD, the rock quality is amazing. Seriously: it might have some of the best stone I've ever touched on the California Coast. You can actually have a solid session here, even though the volume of problems isn't as high as other areas. I can't believe I walked by these rocks for years, looked at them, and then just kept walking.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Little Johnny Pockets (V1-2)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Amazing warmup. Taller than the photo of the rock would suggest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Spit Shine (V1-2)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: This moderate evokes the serious nature of Sierra Highballs! Proud, for sure. Crazy good stone with beautiful positioning. It felt like you could exit left early (and deprive yourself of the "true experience") or even exit up and left of the tree on top.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: As always, way to be intrepid! When I was at Westmont back in 2001, and just getting in to climbing, I did a little bit of exploring up there, but it never amounted to much. Usually, we had ropes with us, and were on our way to the Tangerine Falls sport climbs. I can't tell you how many times we looked at those boulders and said "hmmm, there's probably some good problems..."

But again, we never did anything about it. Tony Becchio et al might know more. I think they spent more time back there. C... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Bay Tree Boulders : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Tyler. I've got a bunch in the queue. May this area will be next...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : The Wicked Duke Takes a Wif... (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: One more thing:

We always topped out the route sort of to the left, on a hand-crack just right of the anchors to Sword In The Stone. There's a lot of ways to finish, but this one had the best rock and coolest moves, and it made it convenient to lower off the SITS anchors. Also, for gear-junkies, there a amazing little pod that accepts a perfect #1 Camalot before you enter said penultimate hand-crack.


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