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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 216
Total Points: 2,616
Last Year: 246
Last 30 Days: 113
108 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1128 | Routes 102 | Areas 20 | Photos 153 | Page Improvements | Comments 531 | Posts 6 | Stars 247 | Ratings 69
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Hat Creek Cattle Company : No Pigs For Rent (V8-9)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Grading new problems is always hard. Especially when they are totally new, and you have to clean all the holds, work out the moves, and just plain figure out how the line goes. I'd love some more folks to try this problem, because it's really, really good. Probably about V4/5 from the stand.

The super low start is at least as hard as Dancing Outlaw and She Made Me Do It (both of which have some stretched out, core-intensive moves), and perhaps even a grade harder. Also, the rock was still clea... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: andy patterson When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Jeff,

I am entirely remiss in not retrieving those lines. I made the HUGE tactical error of starting some projects up there right before Oliver was born, and I had to leave some unfinished projects. I do get up Rattlesnake nowadays, but my timeframes up there are few and far between, and of a shorter duration. I'm hoping to get all the nasty "project hardware" outta there soon.

Thanks for the patience!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Well-Coiffed (my name, perh... (V6-7)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: For the last ten years (how long have I been climbing at Skofield...?) I kinda-sorta-thought there might be a nice burly sit start on the far left of the Vanity Boulder. I heard some unsubstantiated reports that there was, in fact, a V6ish problem. I can't recall who spread that rumor.

During a hot week in August, 2015, I satisfied my curiosity and figured out an excellent sequence of moves, confirming that yes, with a little boredom and local spirit, you can teach old dogs new tricks. I'm qui... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : West Nile Boulder (aka The ... : Skin 'O My Teeth (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: Here's a not-so-incredible piece of footage, filmed on my phone. You can climb this sequence a bunch of different ways, but they all feel the same: hard. Pardon my grunting; aging climbers like myself have to try harder than the all the youngsters.

m.youtube.com/watch?v=lzvKzLt-...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. D... (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 4, 2015

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Comments: I second that: the new breakage makes the opening moves harder, but doesn't up the overall difficulty too much. It does, however, make this awesome line even more awesomer [sic]! The old sequence used a huge flexing jug; now it passes through series of nice, medium-sized flat edges. I went up to ZA after a long hiatus from the Brickyard (read: it's been years), and had loads of fun. The "new" start makes this problem MUCH better, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dissing Euros (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Okay, so this thread REALLY doesn't need more talk about grades, starting-holds, and other quibbling, but I'm a new dad, and since it's hard to get out very often, I find myself trolling the internet. So here goes:

Mary, Oliver (my 9 month son), and I camped out at Pine Mountain this last weekend, and I did a couple of laps on Dissing Euros "for old time's sake". For the left hand on the sit-start, I used what will hereafter be known as the "Sean Crozier Crimp", referred to in an earlier post. ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dirt Bag (V2-3)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: I absolutely love this problem. I do it multiple times whenever I'm at Pine Mountain. This is the also the first post-birth problem my wife did. Mary had always said that she should be able to do Dirt Bag off the couch, so when we were at Pine with our 8 month son, I put her up to it. Sure enough...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : La Cumbre Peak : Earthwatch Wall : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: First Ascent: Father Junipero Serra, circa 1772


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Softly, Softly (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Often overlooked, but high-quality. Almost as good as Crystal Groove.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Classy place, the Tor! We need to revive the idea of opening a casino there.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: andy patterson When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: TIm (and everyone), I would check with the Ventura County Assessor Office, which is located here:

800 S Victoria Ave, Ventura, CA 93009

That's my best guess. A few months ago, my brother had to determine some property lines by his house for a construction project, and they referred to the county assessor. I believe they will have maps and records for public viewing. I would LOVE to go there myself, but again, I think someone who lives down there should lead the charge.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: andy patterson When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I've been getting pings from various climbers over the last year, and it seems people actually do want to get up there, but it's going to have to be someone other than me spearheading the effort——I just had a kid, and time is at a premium in my life. I'll lend a hand when I can, but I hope local Ojai and Ventura climbers can make a dent. The first order of business is finding a LEGAL path of travel, then sucking it up and diving in to the chaparral.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : General Electric (V5)
By: andy patterson When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Jason Kamen and his crew did a fair amount of cleanup on this boulder some time before 2014, but they were eventually stymied by the sheer amount of poison oak. Jason told me that he was psyched by the look of the stone, but that he and his buddies didn't climb that many problems.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering
By: andy patterson When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: I've definitely scoped the area between Windermere and The Brickyard. It's cool, remote, and adventurous—but most of the rock is pretty bad. Sure, there are boulder problems to be had, but I just couldn't find anything that would get me psyched to come back. I'm sure Kelly has explored more than me, however. Perhaps he knows where the goods are.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Irene Jansen (V5 R)
By: andy patterson When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: I never thought it was bold either. You can literally step off the problem at any time. I like the start, even though it's kind of a butt-dragger, since the crux is not dabbing on the boulders below you.

Oh, and the true test for boldness is using pine cones as mountain-money.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: See the crashpad? Start DOWN and RIGHT of the pad, on the Kathy Moffat starting holds. The crux is gaining the rail. Finishing the traverse is cake.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Irene Jansen (V5 R)
By: andy patterson When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: I don't know who made the FA of the traverse. Probably some kid just goofing off. The true start——beginning from Kathy Moffat——might have been a Steve Edwards et al creation.

By the way, these problems are all listed in Ocean's Eleven, which is, last I checked, still the Definitive Tome for SB bouldering. I encourage you to go purchase a copy. It might be out of print soon, but I'm pretty sure REI and/or Mountain Air Sports carry copies.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Heh, heh... the way you have the camera tilted, it looks like a route!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Irene Jansen (V5 R)
By: andy patterson When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Seth, this route has already been done (many times) and it's called Irene Jansen, and goes at V5 if you do it right. Proper beta: start low between the boulders as for Kathy Moffat, then do some funky moves to gain the rail, traverse, mantle. If you traverse R-L just from starting on the rail (that is, NOT starting all the way in the chasm from Kathy Moffat), then it's called Gilda, V1.

I'll let you change the title, but thanks for posting. It's nice to have this problem up on MP.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Chunks O' Flesh (V1)
By: andy patterson When: May 24, 2015

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Comments: Once a year, at my wife's annual Skofield Park Birthday Bash, I jump on Chunks O' Flesh:



Can't wait till next year.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Doom Wall : Shores of Hell (5.11b)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: Back when I was frequenting Mr. Lee's, this was always the warmup. I remember freezing my butt (and fingers) off every time I got on it, since it was usually the middle of November or December, and the route gets a ton of shade.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area
By: andy patterson When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: Mina, The Playground is located off of West Camino Cielo—not Gibraltar Road.

Personally, I'd recommend dozens of places to climb instead of The Playground, but that's just me (especially if you want Gibraltar-esque climbing). If you still want to climb Gibraltar, try hiking up Rattlesnake Canyon trail, which brings you all the way up to Gibraltar road. It's between 1 and 1 1/2 hours of hiking. Not bad, actually. A lot of climbers I know (including myself) do the "long" approach for the traini... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: I remember belaying from it, actually. It was in a pretty bad state at the time.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: Love it. This was one of my first problems. Ever. I remember watching Kelly waltz it back in 2001, before the recession, when life was good and Buffy The Vampire Slayer was still fresh in all of our minds.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: To aid in this discussion, can someone (Matthew? Jon? Sean?) provide a photograph with some nifty photoshop indications of where the new and old bolts are? This could prove to be an instructive debate—especially if there are salient visual aids. I'm only generally aware of where the new bolt line runs. I'd love to see the whole shebang from a good perspective. I think everyone would.

Thanks in advance! I don't have the wherewithal to get down there any time soon.


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