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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 222
Total Points: 2,372
Last Year: 601
Last 30 Days: 17
84 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1021 | Routes 94 | Areas 17 | Photos 140 | Page Improvments | Comments 477 | Posts 3 | Stars 223 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : The Black Death (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: 19 hours ago

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Comments: Here's a video of the FA:



Actual climbing begins at 1:35. Sorry for the unedited version.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : West Nile Boulder (aka The ... : Le Bernd (V4-5)
By: andy patterson When: 19 hours ago

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Comments: Sean, I'm flattered.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Prohibition Traverse (V7)
By: andy patterson When: 19 hours ago

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Comments: I'm 78% confident I did this first, after a session with longtime local Jason Kamen. He showed me the line, I finished it. I can't prove anything, so who cares. Good problem.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Every bit as good as people say it is. Great for the burgeoning 5.8 leader.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : What Have You Done with My ... (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I absolutely loved this route. Once someone (Bueller... Bueller) cleans the leaves out of the cracks, there's some nice finger-locks, hand-jams, and rather elegant face moves. Once I neared the top, I stepped left to finish on the upper face of Birthday Party, making for a diagonal exploration of the Tower. I highly recommend this variation!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : Birthday Party (5.7)
By: andy patterson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Good adventure. Cruddy stuff down low, but worth the effort for the awesome upper sections and cool tower belay station.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 1 : Lovely Snowball (5.7+)
By: andy patterson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I agree with Matthew: one of the more engaging routes in the area of this grade and style. I also agree with Matthew's "variation" suggestion towards the top. As with many routes at Panic Town, you can climb left or right on to adjacent routes. Call it choose-your-own-adventure.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Jeff, I'm not trying to say anything definitive about the actual grade: just that we climbed the wrong route, and it was a hoot. Best mistake of the season, in fact. Oh, and 5.9d is what I rate every route that's hard for me.

Just a story, not an editorial.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: A little anecdote regarding grade:

My buddy and I walked up to the PSOM slab, completely new to the area, and had no idea what route to get on. I heard tales about some "cruiser 5.9s" somewhere up and right of the lower routes, and armed with an old guidebook we attempted to find gold.

To make a long story short, we started up the John Fischer Memorial Route thinking it was Big Deal, which is apparently rated 5.9. Pitch after beautiful pitch unfolded before us, and while we secretly thought t... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Mystical Steps Towards Deat... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, if you try it in the sun, then everything goes to crap.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: It took a three-year off-and-on-again battle with Chips for me to appreciate the true nature of the Tor. And if you were lucky enough to watch Elijah wage war with Hardboiled (I was) then you really understand how long and protracted redpoint battles can be. The Tor is a brutal mistress, and will not be slandered.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : Bard-Harrington Finish (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Exposed as all get out! Short, and somewhat in your face. Makes you earn the summit.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : The Prow (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: My friend Bernd Zeugswetter and I climbed this in June. Perfect rock climb—with the exception of the funky 11ish climbing before the upper 12b portion. Bernd onsighted the pitch (very impressively, I might add—he climbed up and down the 5.11 portion several times before committing) and I followed clean as I well. The lower portion isn't terribly hard, just weird and hard to protect since some of the flakes aren't totally solid. You CAN protect it, however. Just get creative.

The upper portion ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Mystical Steps Towards Deat... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: This thing makes me cry. So tricky. I've never sent it easily.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Kelly's points are good:

The lighter we step, the longer we climb. Access will always be an issue around here.

Kelly, I noticed that Tyler et all were naming problems mainly out of clarity. I've spoken at length with Tyler about his development (or re-development, as it were) of areas around SB, and I think he would be psyched if you and others contributed FA info and names. That stuff makes for fun history. Same goes for the Creamery. I think everyone would gladly relinquish their "new" name... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Kelly, you are THE encyclopedia of bouldering around these parts. I didn't mean "hazy" as an insult. Respect, respect, respect.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: I have personally spoken with the manager of Windermere Ranch (in May), and he simply said "be careful, and don't do anything stupid". I introduced myself, explained who we were, and that was that. He seemed to be totally fine with things; his only concern was that we respect the "actual" Windermere Ranch boundaries—and that we didn't kill ourselves.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Bob, don't turn the rant off.

By the way, Grover didn't write the article; some out-of-towner did. Don't know him.

Grover loves the Tor.

To add to your comments regarding the B-yard: after the Gap Fire, the old B-yard trail disappeared and the new path hightailed it to the Yeti area. Basically, traffic at the Yard' thenceforth consisted of Yeti, Charlotte's Web, Grotesque Old Woman, Watch The Dog, Smooth Criminal, and Dancing Outlaw. Other areas fell in to relative obscurity. After ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: "lack of natural beauty"...

Hmmm. Disagree. Perhaps someone should un-invite the author to Owltoberfest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: andy patterson When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Sean, you're talking to a guy who has dug miles of trails... and this is a GREAT idea. We just have to figure out how to do it legally and not piss off the wrong parties. Do you have a proper idea of where to start cutting? Hit me up at 805-729-8146 or email at andy@sbforge.com

Digging and cutting trails is the only thing I love more than climbing. That, and my wife.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : A.C.L. (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: So it turns out that perhaps Bernd WASN'T the first ascentionist. We went to the Noir Boulder together and while he did recognize doing lines like Shake Junt, ACL didn't jog his memory. So Seth probably nabbed first crank.

Anyhoo, Bernd and I put this one down this last Thursday night, on a cool June evening. Awesome sesh, and very memorable. I spent about three sessions working the problem, then sent on the fourth, with good conditions and fresh tips. I'm not terribly confident in grading thi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Dances With Wolves (a.k.a. ... (V9-10)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: it's a 40' long traverse.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Chunks O' Flesh (V1)
By: andy patterson When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: It finally occurred to me why this is called "Chunks of Flesh".

We held my wife's birthday at the BBQ boulder last Sunday, and cooked all sorts of greasy fare between intermittent laps on Chunks of Flesh. At some point, someone inadvertently smeared the high crimp with cooking-related grease, and every subsequent attempt of the problem resulted in an epic finger-pop slip from the crimp.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme... : Chimera (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: All I gotta say is uffda. Burly, to be sure.

Dean and I discussed this problem the other day, and we both agreed that provided you execute the moves with perfection, the sequence feels hard but doable—as in V7/8 doable. Personally, I lean towards Thomas's assessment of V8, but I too sent the problem on a hot day. I gotta say, if you botch any part of the sequence, or fudge your accuracy, then it all goes to crap and feels IMPOSSIBLE.

This problem should be on everyone's tick-list, if only f... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Pretzel Logic (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: Hard, painful, short...


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