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The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact andy patterson


Point Rank: # 217
Total Points: 2,411
Last Year: 621
Last 30 Days: 37
86 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1036 | Routes 95 | Areas 18 | Photos 141 | Page Improvements | Comments 486 | Posts 3 | Stars 226 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: andy patterson When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Thanks for the detailed description, Matthew! You beat me to the punch. I was in the middle of drawing some more maps when I saw your description. I'll put out an "overview map" soon, but I wanted to get something up about this route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : The Fast and the Flurrious (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: I've heard some people argue about the grading. There's a bunch of ways to do this problem, and all of them feel dramatically different—in my opinion. Take the V7/8 grade with a grain of salt. The way Bernd, myself, Dean, and Thomas first did the problem was hard-ish, but I know problems have a way of settling over time.

This little boulder affords amazing rock. I love the left hand sloping crimp with the tiny shred-your-tips imbedded crystal.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: Get after it, Duke!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: I hope Chuck Ethics sells t-shirts. Incredible name.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Honest question to Michael: how does the line climb? Good? Awesome? I'll be going out there next week, and was hoping to check out the new routes. All ribbing aside, thanks for bolting. Always appreciated.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: True, Richard, true.

All of us (especially me, since I run the family blacksmithing business and am expecting a kid ANY day now) probably have better things to do than troll the internet and criticize people. But man, it is tempting sometimes...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Disappointing name, indeed. I'm tempted to leave the name—and all of our accompanying comments—on the page so that the first-ascentionists succumb to peer pressure and use their imaginations to better ends.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : White Cougar (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: Tried that. Phil and Elijah yelled at me and I kept climbing out of sheer humiliation.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Prohibition Traverse (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Oh, and kudos to anyone who sends this in 75+ degree weather. Those pinches get smarmy.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : The Black Death (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Here's a video of the FA:



Actual climbing begins at 1:35. Sorry for the unedited version.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : West Nile Boulder (aka The ... : Le Bernd (V4-5)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Sean, I'm flattered.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Prohibition Traverse (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: I'm 78% confident I did this first, after a session with longtime local Jason Kamen. He showed me the line, I finished it. I can't prove anything, so who cares. Good problem.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Every bit as good as people say it is. Great for the burgeoning 5.8 leader.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : What Have You Done with My ... (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: I absolutely loved this route. Once someone (Bueller... Bueller) cleans the leaves out of the cracks, there's some nice finger-locks, hand-jams, and rather elegant face moves. Once I neared the top, I stepped left to finish on the upper face of Birthday Party, making for a diagonal exploration of the Tower. I highly recommend this variation!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 3 : Birthday Party (5.7)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Good adventure. Cruddy stuff down low, but worth the effort for the awesome upper sections and cool tower belay station.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town : Wall 1 : Lovely Snowball (5.7+)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Matthew: one of the more engaging routes in the area of this grade and style. I also agree with Matthew's "variation" suggestion towards the top. As with many routes at Panic Town, you can climb left or right on to adjacent routes. Call it choose-your-own-adventure.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Jeff, I'm not trying to say anything definitive about the actual grade: just that we climbed the wrong route, and it was a hoot. Best mistake of the season, in fact. Oh, and 5.9d is what I rate every route that's hard for me.

Just a story, not an editorial.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: A little anecdote regarding grade:

My buddy and I walked up to the PSOM slab, completely new to the area, and had no idea what route to get on. I heard tales about some "cruiser 5.9s" somewhere up and right of the lower routes, and armed with an old guidebook we attempted to find gold.

To make a long story short, we started up the John Fischer Memorial Route thinking it was Big Deal, which is apparently rated 5.9. Pitch after beautiful pitch unfolded before us, and while we secretly thought t... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Mystical Steps Towards Deat... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, if you try it in the sun, then everything goes to crap.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: It took a three-year off-and-on-again battle with Chips for me to appreciate the true nature of the Tor. And if you were lucky enough to watch Elijah wage war with Hardboiled (I was) then you really understand how long and protracted redpoint battles can be. The Tor is a brutal mistress, and will not be slandered.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : Bard-Harrington Finish (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Exposed as all get out! Short, and somewhat in your face. Makes you earn the summit.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : The Prow (5.12b)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: My friend Bernd Zeugswetter and I climbed this in June. Perfect rock climb—with the exception of the funky 11ish climbing before the upper 12b portion. Bernd onsighted the pitch (very impressively, I might add—he climbed up and down the 5.11 portion several times before committing) and I followed clean as I well. The lower portion isn't terribly hard, just weird and hard to protect since some of the flakes aren't totally solid. You CAN protect it, however. Just get creative.

The upper portion ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Mystical Steps Towards Deat... (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: This thing makes me cry. So tricky. I've never sent it easily.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Kelly's points are good:

The lighter we step, the longer we climb. Access will always be an issue around here.

Kelly, I noticed that Tyler et all were naming problems mainly out of clarity. I've spoken at length with Tyler about his development (or re-development, as it were) of areas around SB, and I think he would be psyched if you and others contributed FA info and names. That stuff makes for fun history. Same goes for the Creamery. I think everyone would gladly relinquish their "new" name... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Kelly, you are THE encyclopedia of bouldering around these parts. I didn't mean "hazy" as an insult. Respect, respect, respect.


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