Comments: I gotta admit, when Jeff first told me about Panic Town, I was skeptical. I've searched and bushwhacked the canyons behind SB looking for routes, only to have my hopes repeatedly dashed. And how many times have you heard an overzealous local touting "untapped potential" in thar hills?
Panic Town may have a "long" approach by some standards, but when you factor in house-to-crag time, and the sheer number of vertical feet available, Panic Town is not only a convenient destination, it might be th... more >>
Comments: Great work on the landing, guys! This problem follows a tempting line of pockets, and gets savage at the very, very top! Not a gimme. I sent after working the moves for about 30 minutes, but I am a tad taller than my climbing partners (who happen to be a tad burlier than I), so I reeled this one in without too much drama. Still, the top-out was quite hard, and doesn't really favor the tall or the short. That said, the lower crux is STIFF for shorties.
Comments: Thomas and I were working this line and during a good effort Thomas broke off the lip of the underclingy two-finger pocket. It's still very doable, but definitely no easier. I think this is bouldering at its finest: consolidated power! I really, really want to do this problem. Nice work, Seth!
Comments: I climbed to the top of the Pillar via Land Before Time (5.10a), then did the rest of Timeless as a 2nd pitch (didn't know at the time that Timeless could be done as one, singular pitch). Anyhoo, the zig-zag crack on Timeless has become my new favorite stretch of rock on the Warning Signs cliff. Absolutely wild and exposed: you'll feel like you're in Yosemite, high up on some classic grade IV... except for the fact that you are clipping bolts. Super, super fun.
Comments: Yeah, it could be titled as The Scorpion boulders, but to be honest, I'm not 100% sure that that was even what it was called. Kelly seemed to be hazy on the details, and I just wanted to include what it MIGHT have been called. I'll take any historical info folks can offer. In the meantime, I wanted to honor the extremely dedicated and motivated folks developing the area.
Comments: Yes, the winter of 2013-14 was one of the driest and warmest on record, but conditions on Serenity and Sons were utterly magnifique as of mid-March. It was like climbing durng a windy, crystal clear streak in late May or June. First pitch was damp (usually is anyway), but the rest of the route to the top was PERFECT.
Comments: I did this route about three years ago. It was NOT clean then. The climbing itself was good, but the upper pitches became considerably adventurous. I'm glad it's looking better. I thought the 2nd and 3rd pitches were pretty cool and rather demanding!
Comments: We always knew this would happen. The last time I tried the problem, I had this bad "feeling" when I got to the finger lock, and dropped off. There's alternate beta for sure--someone just has to commit!
Comments: Thanks, Galen. As I write this, my forearm and left hand ache with Poison Oak sores. Currently, the trail is quite good, and the First Come First Served boulder has great flat landings, despite its steep positioning.
Comments: I can currently start from the boulder back and left of Jack, jump to the "start" boulder, and leap to the jug. According to the rules (and there ARE rules), you can't re-set your feet upon landing on each boulder; you have to spring off the same leg you land upon.
Comments: Thomas nabbed the FA of Frigidaire on a balmy fall evening, ground-up, with a headlamp. Actually, he didn't have the headlamp—I did. I simply stood back, shined light where possible, and tried to spot Thomas. The higher he got, the less light I could offer. Watching Thomas execute the topout sans daylight and knowledge of the top holds was one of the proudest feats of bouldering I've witnessed in a long time. Next time you top out Frigidaire, imagine doing it basically in the dark, with no knowl... more >>