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Member Since: Sep 13, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2009
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Point Rank: # 5,377
Total Points: 66
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 35 | Routes | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts | Stars 5 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Future of Climbing in the A...
By: Andy Moore When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: Just a reminder... The deadline for comments is midnight (Mtn. time) today, May 4th.


Location: CO : Stop Unjustified Raptor Clo...
By: Andy Moore When: Mar 3, 2006

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Comments: I'm a climber and not a naturalist, and I think it makes sense to keep Security Risk and other potential nesting sites closed to climbers until it is clear that raptors have not chosen those sites for nesting. It is logical to me that if you never give the eagles or other raptors a chance to nest at a certain crag that they will choose another crag less popular with humans at this time of year, even if it is not their first choice. Give them a chance to make that first choice, and then open up o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Waiting For Columbus (5.10c)
By: Andy Moore When: Sep 8, 2004

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Comments: If you only have a 50m rope, and/or you'd rather avoid crowds on the standard rappel descent, go straight up to Slip-Slide Ledge and belay. Then downclimb Slip-Slide Ledge to the top of the Southwest Chimney. From here, you can either continue to downclimb, down the relatively easy chimney, or rappel the same way to the ground (from an eyebolt).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: Andy Moore When: Sep 8, 2004

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Comments: There is also a third short pitch (9+) that is worth doing. This reaches the top of the wall, on the right side of the "Beagle's Ear." The best descent from here is to traverse over to the notch between the North and Central Towers for the standard rappel descent (four raps with a single rope, ending on top of the block at the base of Perversion).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Lucky Strikes Again (5.9)
By: Andy Moore When: Jul 2, 2004

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Comments: The upper section of this climb is a lot of fun, but the bottom part (which is shared with Pri-Moe) is not. There is at least one handhold (which is probably used by most people to clip from) on the lower part that won't be there for long. Be wary of the rock on the lower part.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Pri-Moe (5.10d)
By: Andy Moore When: Jul 2, 2004

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Comments: Once this cleans up a bit more, I think it deserves a star (or at least not a bomb). There are some cool moves up the crack and through the slot. Heed Chris' advice about gear in the loose flake before the 4th bolt. If you have a #3.5 Camalot or so, though, it provides bomber pro right below the loose flake. In retrospect, the move up to clip the 4th bolt wasn't bad, but I'm glad I had some gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Simian's Way (5.11a)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: The 5.9+ first pitch is quite good and well worth doing by itself. Take extra nuts and cams in the fingertips to fingers range.

You can get down from the first pitch with one rope, either from a slightly scary mess of slings threaded at the bottom of a huge detached flake (this can be backed up with gear for the belay), or it is possible to traverse over to the anchors for the bolted climbs to the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Green Dihedral (5.7)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Excellent climb. On the second pitch, in the left-facing corner before it arches left, there are some slightly loose chockstones and flakes. Be wary of where you place pro.

I agree with the recommendation to pass up the hanging belay at the end of the traverse on the second pitch and go straight up another short bit of exciting climbing to the next mess of slings (up and to the left a bit). A large cam (#4Fr, #3.5Cam) is nice to have handy to place in a slot to the right as you pull... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: For the traverse left at the beginning of the climb, Michael and a couple of others above have mentioned threading a hole for a bomber piece of protection. One further tip: Use a medium to large wired stopper to thread the hole rather than a sling. A larger stopper is too big to go through the hole, so just stick the wire through and then clip it with a draw. This is quick and easy to do with one hand.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Angel's Way (5.2)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Chip, I don't think we have poison sumac here either. We have a couple of different kinds of sumac, but neither are poisonous. Poison sumac grows in lower boggy areas in the eastern part of the country.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Toll : North Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Andy Moore When: Jul 2, 2003

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Comments: Yes Rob, the route goes up the ridge on the right-hand skyline.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Andy Moore When: Apr 21, 2003

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Comments: To update Brad's comment above regarding the Bear Lake Road construction, the road will now be closed to private vehicles starting June 1, 2003 (rather than May 1, 2003). See the link below for more info:

nps.gov/romo/visit/weather/bea...


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Topographical Oceans (5.10b)
By: Andy Moore When: Nov 20, 2002

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Comments: For P1, a cam or two in the #2 Camalot size will protect the moves to the first bolt. I also fiddled in a small nut in the runout section between the second and third bolts on P1, but this was of limited usefulness; a small Alien might also work in this stretch. Other than this, we didn't place any other gear on the rest of the route. (Note that there is another set of bolts (4) on the initial slab, to the right of Topographic Oceans; this is Fuzzy Thinking, 9+/10-.)

... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 30, 2002

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Comments: You need a little over 10 feet of sling to tie off the neck of the Cobra below the fixed pin; I used a long cordelette. This is key protection and makes clipping the fixed pin above just mildly unnerving.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Morpheus (5.11a/b)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 8, 2002

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Comments: This is a nice long pitch with a variety of climbing. Between bolts 3 and 4 in the corner, I placed a few cams ranging from about a #.4 to a #1 Camalot. (I think that a #.5 and a #.75 would be particularly useful.) I also placed a finger-sized stopper in the easy-but-runout section between bolts 1 and 2.

A 60-meter rope is useful, as ours just reached back to the base of the climb while lowering, although this depends on where your belayer stands on the steeply sloping ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Forbidden Planet (5.11b)
By: Andy Moore When: Aug 2, 2002

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Comments: The large sidepull hold near the first bolt has broken off, making the start a little harder now. I did a direct start a bit down and to the right of the first bolt. (You'll want to first go up to the left and reach up right to clip the 1st bolt, then come back down to the right to start climbing.) This seemed about 11b or so, although it is probably height-dependent. (I'm 6' tall with a 6' reach.)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Sleepless in Boulder (5.11a/b)
By: Andy Moore When: Jun 7, 2002

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Comments: On May 31, my partner and I counted 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. And there is indeed a slightly loose flake near the top of the route. At first glance, it is an inviting hold, which you reach right for, just below a clip (at the 10th bolt, I believe). When I grabbed it, it groaned in a sickening way. Also, at the beginning of the route, be wary of a large slabby block (about 3 feet by 4 feet by 8 inches) between bolts 1 and 2. The top of the block is a very sharp juggy rail that you use for you... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : The Unsaid (5.9)
By: Andy Moore When: May 22, 2002

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Comments: Going straight up the dihedral, instead of moving left, is mid-5.10 or so. There are a couple of delicate stem moves, with not much for your feet, until you can reach up to where the crack opens up enough to admit fingers again. From there, you can reach up to the roof. The move over the roof from this position is fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: Andy Moore When: Nov 14, 2001

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Comments: Regarding injuries leading this route, I know of one. A friend of mine, who was climbing solid 5.12 at the time, tried to onsight this back in about 1994 or so, but he fell before getting to the first bolt. He broke his ankle pretty badly.

A tip I have heard for making getting to the first clip somewhat safer involves going up C'est la Vie about 25 feet and putting in a bomber cam (about #2 Friend), clipping it, then coming down and leading up Pansee Sauvage. By doing this, you should avo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bolt Cola (5.10a)
By: Andy Moore When: Sep 28, 2001

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Comments: I've led this route without using the bolts, and there is only one place where I felt the pro was not great, and that was up high, under the roof, just before you get to easier ground (and good pro again). There was a so-so small cam placement below the roof, but the rock wasn't so great around the cams, and I didn't really want to test it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Andy Moore When: Sep 13, 2001

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Comments: IMO, the crux pitch is still a serious pitch. The three bolts are in a horizontal line, only a few feet from each other, directly to the right of the two-bolt anchor at the top of the spire above the tiny tree. Because of their horizontal orientation and proximity to each other, they are largely redundant. I suppose having three of them might keep you from swinging back into the spire, but one bolt (the original?) would have sufficed. (Could they have been placed for a rescue? Otherwise, they lo... more >>