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Member Since: Sep 13, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2009
Contact Andy Moore


Point Rank: # 5,041
Total Points: 66
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Comments are worth 1



Where has Andy Moore been climbing?










Contributions


All (35) | Routes | Areas | Photos (9) | Comments (21) | Posts | Stars (5) | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Dave Goldstein below the crux.

Dave Goldstein below the crux.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Strange Science (5.11c)

Sep 30, 2004

The Northstar couloir is mostly hidden in this photo, but it begins near the center and heads up and right to the rightmost notch in the skyline.  When you approach, you will traverse in on the big snow slope (from the right), but when skiing down it's fun to go lower than this.

The Northstar couloir is mostly hidden in this photo, but it begins near the center and heads up and right to the rightmost notch in the skyline. When you approach, you will traverse in on the big sn

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : North Star Couloir

Jun 4, 2004

Crankin' teles down the couloir.

Crankin' teles down the couloir.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : North Star Couloir

Jun 4, 2004

Climbing the middle of the couloir.

Climbing the middle of the couloir.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : North Star Couloir

Jun 4, 2004

Climbing up the couloir, this is near the start.  Note the chunky nature of the snow, and two climbers visible high up the couloir.

Climbing up the couloir, this is near the start. Note the chunky nature of the snow, and two climbers visible high up the couloir.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : North Star Couloir

Jun 4, 2004

David on the traverse on pitch 2.

David on the traverse on pitch 2.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Ship Of Fools (5.11 PG13)

Jul 15, 2003

David near the crux of Man Overboard. The huge left-facing dihedral of Portal is visible up to the right. <br />

David near the crux of Man Overboard. The huge left-facing dihedral of Portal is visible up to the right.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Man Overboard (5.10d R)

Jul 15, 2003

George at the beginning of the second crux.

George at the beginning of the second crux.

CO : Flatirons : ... : Electroshock (5.10a)

May 15, 2002

George at the bizarre and comfy rest, getting ready for the first crux.

George at the bizarre and comfy rest, getting ready for the first crux.

CO : Flatirons : ... : Electroshock (5.10a)

May 15, 2002

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Future of Climbing in the A...
By: Andy Moore When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: Just a reminder... The deadline for comments is midnight (Mtn. time) today, May 4th.


Location: CO : Stop Unjustified Raptor Clo...
By: Andy Moore When: Mar 3, 2006

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Comments: I'm a climber and not a naturalist, and I think it makes sense to keep Security Risk and other potential nesting sites closed to climbers until it is clear that raptors have not chosen those sites for nesting. It is logical to me that if you never give the eagles or other raptors a chance to nest at a certain crag that they will choose another crag less popular with humans at this time of year, even if it is not their first choice. Give them a chance to make that first choice, and then open up o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Waiting For Columbus (5.10c)
By: Andy Moore When: Sep 8, 2004

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Comments: If you only have a 50m rope, and/or you'd rather avoid crowds on the standard rappel descent, go straight up to Slip-Slide Ledge and belay. Then downclimb Slip-Slide Ledge to the top of the Southwest Chimney. From here, you can either continue to downclimb, down the relatively easy chimney, or rappel the same way to the ground (from an eyebolt).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: Andy Moore When: Sep 8, 2004

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Comments: There is also a third short pitch (9+) that is worth doing. This reaches the top of the wall, on the right side of the "Beagle's Ear." The best descent from here is to traverse over to the notch between the North and Central Towers for the standard rappel descent (four raps with a single rope, ending on top of the block at the base of Perversion).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Lucky Strikes Again (5.9)
By: Andy Moore When: Jul 2, 2004

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Comments: The upper section of this climb is a lot of fun, but the bottom part (which is shared with Pri-Moe) is not. There is at least one handhold (which is probably used by most people to clip from) on the lower part that won't be there for long. Be wary of the rock on the lower part.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Pri-Moe (5.10d)
By: Andy Moore When: Jul 2, 2004

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Comments: Once this cleans up a bit more, I think it deserves a star (or at least not a bomb). There are some cool moves up the crack and through the slot. Heed Chris' advice about gear in the loose flake before the 4th bolt. If you have a #3.5 Camalot or so, though, it provides bomber pro right below the loose flake. In retrospect, the move up to clip the 4th bolt wasn't bad, but I'm glad I had some gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Simian's Way (5.11a)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: The 5.9+ first pitch is quite good and well worth doing by itself. Take extra nuts and cams in the fingertips to fingers range.

You can get down from the first pitch with one rope, either from a slightly scary mess of slings threaded at the bottom of a huge detached flake (this can be backed up with gear for the belay), or it is possible to traverse over to the anchors for the bolted climbs to the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Green Dihedral (5.7)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Excellent climb. On the second pitch, in the left-facing corner before it arches left, there are some slightly loose chockstones and flakes. Be wary of where you place pro.

I agree with the recommendation to pass up the hanging belay at the end of the traverse on the second pitch and go straight up another short bit of exciting climbing to the next mess of slings (up and to the left a bit). A large cam (#4Fr, #3.5Cam) is nice to have handy to place in a slot to the right as you pull... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: For the traverse left at the beginning of the climb, Michael and a couple of others above have mentioned threading a hole for a bomber piece of protection. One further tip: Use a medium to large wired stopper to thread the hole rather than a sling. A larger stopper is too big to go through the hole, so just stick the wire through and then clip it with a draw. This is quick and easy to do with one hand.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Angel's Way (5.2)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Chip, I don't think we have poison sumac here either. We have a couple of different kinds of sumac, but neither are poisonous. Poison sumac grows in lower boggy areas in the eastern part of the country.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Toll : North Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Andy Moore When: Jul 2, 2003

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Comments: Yes Rob, the route goes up the ridge on the right-hand skyline.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Andy Moore When: Apr 21, 2003

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Comments: To update Brad's comment above regarding the Bear Lake Road construction, the road will now be closed to private vehicles starting June 1, 2003 (rather than May 1, 2003). See the link below for more info:

www.nps.gov/romo/visit/weather/bearlake.html


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Topographical Oceans (5.10b)
By: Andy Moore When: Nov 20, 2002

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Comments: For P1, a cam or two in the #2 Camalot size will protect the moves to the first bolt. I also fiddled in a small nut in the runout section between the second and third bolts on P1, but this was of limited usefulness; a small Alien might also work in this stretch. Other than this, we didn't place any other gear on the rest of the route. (Note that there is another set of bolts (4) on the initial slab, to the right of Topographic Oceans; this is Fuzzy Thinking, 9+/10-.)

... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 30, 2002

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Comments: You need a little over 10 feet of sling to tie off the neck of the Cobra below the fixed pin; I used a long cordelette. This is key protection and makes clipping the fixed pin above just mildly unnerving.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Morpheus (5.11a/b)
By: Andy Moore When: Oct 8, 2002

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Comments: This is a nice long pitch with a variety of climbing. Between bolts 3 and 4 in the corner, I placed a few cams ranging from about a #.4 to a #1 Camalot. (I think that a #.5 and a #.75 would be particularly useful.) I also placed a finger-sized stopper in the easy-but-runout section between bolts 1 and 2.

A 60-meter rope is useful, as ours just reached back to the base of the climb while lowering, although this depends on where your belayer stands on the steeply sloping ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Forbidden Planet (5.11b)
By: Andy Moore When: Aug 2, 2002

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Comments: The large sidepull hold near the first bolt has broken off, making the start a little harder now. I did a direct start a bit down and to the right of the first bolt. (You'll want to first go up to the left and reach up right to clip the 1st bolt, then come back down to the right to start climbing.) This seemed about 11b or so, although it is probably height-dependent. (I'm 6' tall with a 6' reach.)


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