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Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 225
Total Points: 2,411
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2991 | Routes 76 | Areas 31 | Photos 142 | Page Improvements | Comments 471 | Posts 1290 | Stars 581 | Ratings 400
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Northside Routes : El Segundo (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Fun route close to town... and a little "mini adventure" as well. Climbs like a tower route.... even though it isn't a tower :)

Park right below the route in a pullout. Walk up the bike path towards Arches until you can (easily) gain the bench and then follow the bench up until it ends at the start of the first pitch traverse. You actually start the hike on the short trail to the petrogylphs sign.

The first pitch steps down a short chimney before traversing right. I was easily able to plac... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Working Class Hero (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: A fun change of pace from steep splitters. "Friendly" green and purple camalots through the business. I also placed some #0.4 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot.

Sandy feet keep it exciting.

Anchor does need some love though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Christine's Way Buff Sabb (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: Great route.

(Camalots) #3 or #4 for the first mantle, than a #0.5 or #0.75, and then as many #2s as you want to carry. You can also get a #3 at the base of the main crack.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Brush Painted Datsun (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: Amazing route. Worth the hike, especially when combined with Saab next door.

I placed a #0.5 camalot to get up to the ledge. Plus a #3 as a directional for my second on the way down.

The thing will take as many #2 camalots as you can carry. I was happy to have a new BD #4 in the lower pod 10' up the main crack, though it isn't necessary. And then some #1 camalots for the start and finish. Book says #0.75, but I didn't place any. You can get a #3... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: Some approach beta...

You can comfortably stay in the wash until below Working Class Hero. That climb is further up the canyon than I thought (20 minutes or so). Once below Working Class Hero, the sandy wash opens up to smooth slickrock ledges before gorging up again. There is a jeep trail that begins on the right side right above the slickrock ledges. You can then walk on the jeep trail for 10-15 minutes until you are past the cragging routes to the right of Bootleg Tower. To access Dat... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Pigs in a Slot (5.10)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: The top of the wide bit is more like a new #5 camalot (or a wide/tipped #4).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Super Surprised (5.10-)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: Great route, and still "undiscovered by the masses" despite being a short 3 minute walk left of 3AM crack.

Walk left past Rad Bad and go about 50 feet until you are staring at a chimney with a finger crack next to it.

Small cams up to #0.5 for the finger crack into the chimney. And then a handsize cam (#1, #2, or #3 will all fit as you climb higher) up to the belay atop of the pillar. I'd say the first pitch felt 5.9ish.

Second pitch is great. It goes from hands... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Sunset Strip (5.10d)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Wonderful route and destined for mass popularity once it is listed in the guidebooks.

Sustained, well protected, moderate 5.10 climbing with occasional short, harder cruxes. Can't miss the start. It's down and right of Rutabega about 100 yards or so and starts off a rock at a bolt.

Easier than the Grand Wall, and is someways more enjoyable due to the varied climbing and lack of any bolt ladders.

I was happy with nuts, double set of cams from small to #3 camalot. And one #4 ca... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Reacharound (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Totally fun. I hand traversed out the big rail and made it harder for myself (accidently). My partners simply worked up into the chimney for a move. Duh. That made way more sense.

I was happy to have a #4 but you didn't need it. Save a green camalot for above the rail.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Commonwealth
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Absolutely fabulous wall for a family outing. The climbs are perfect for kids, with many of them starting easy and getting harder up top. We had a great day with our kids - 6 and 9.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Jungle Warfare (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: First pitch was great. We split the first pitch proper into two pitches, belaying at the bolted belay to minimize any rope drag. I was happy to have a #4 camalot... plenty of places to place it.

We linked the 5.7 ramp to the 50' slab finishing pitch without any drag. Traverse off to climber's right from there.

Unless you want to do the old "Tunnel Descent", be sure to walk up about 200 yards once you traverse into the descent gully. The tunnel descent goes, but it isn't exactly plea... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Truly a gem of the route. Every pitch is good.

Did the original start first, and then the finger crack start after walking down. A 70m just allows you to lower/TR after leading the finger crack. A gray X4 was perfect at the cruxy transition into the thin crack.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Polymastia (5.10d)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Really fun! Very well protected. A bit gritty on the slab, but plenty of bolts. Quite the mixed route - crack, jugs, and slab.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Five and Dime Cliff : Keystone Corner (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: No anchor up top.... easy walk off, just be aware.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Lunatic Fringe (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Wow, what a pitch. The opening section of tight hands definitely delivers the pump. I placed a red C3 (up top), 2x yellow aliens (up top too), a couple medium to big nuts (the one at the bottom mentioned in the Super Topo is bomber), and otherwise pretty much #0.5 to #3.5 camalot fest. It'll take as many of all those as you want to throw at it - the meat being green camalots to #2 camalots. Definitely a spot or two for #3s as well. I had to work to get the #3.5... more >>


Location: Nick Wilder : Nick's Album : Photo
By: Andy Laakmann When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Xanadu?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : El Camino Real (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: From Jungle Ledge a 60 or 70m will reach near the bottom, but both require some easy 3rd/4th class scrambling.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: P1 - I used a pink tricam off the bottom, and slung the flake out right as a directional for my second. Definitely cruxy getting to the ear, but pulling over the ear is easy and has bomber gear.

P2 - Lieback, jam, it's all good. I went around the roof and belayed at the small ledge. #1 and #2 camalots for gear on the left, or finger size gear on the right.

P3 - Fun. The slab move is straightforward if you are used to Tahquitz/Suicide slab. A little chimney action is useful to e... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Winter Solstice (5.11c PG13)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Wickedly sustained.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Captain Hook (5.7)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: We just did the first pitch and then traverse over to the rap anchors.

The start seemed all of 5.9 to me, with fiddly gear to boot. I had to streeeetch to get a spot for a small offset nut from the opening feet. And the spot required some cleaning with the nut tool just for bonus thrill.

The climb protected well past that up until the roof, though stock up on small to midsize nuts as they seemed to be the ticket.

I found the exit move pretty damn thrilling with the gear way down below yo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : The Hernia (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Fun. The giant, hollow sounding flake before the roof sure is creepy though.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Split Beaver (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Super fun battle. My rack: green c3 for the boulder move, #1, #0.75, 2x#2, #3, #3.5, 2x#4, 1x#5. Sews it up.. though I did slide the #5 up for the last move.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Vector (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The Vector crack is really fun! A full 55m of quality wide hand crack, with about a 10 foot section of enjoyable, low-angle offwidth. I had 2 x #2s, 3 x #3s, 1 x #3.5, 2 x #4, and 1 x #5 and was perfectly comfy. But even with that rack I was back cleaning a fair bit. That being said, I went all the way to the belay with one bolt and did not stop of the ledge about 2/3 of the way up. If you did that, you might be able to get by with less gear (but save some han... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Centerfold (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: A 70m just makes the first rap, but tie knots. Then you can rap straight down to the anchors above the 11c. And then a final rap down.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Wiretap (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Climbed it again by starting up Thriller on the Piller and finishing on Wire Crack. Thriller is an awesome pitch and provdes a "harder" start. Wire Crack was pretty short all things considered....


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