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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Zach took this fall more than once on this particular day. In fact, this one shows his leg behind the rope which indeed left him swinging upside down and gave him mega rope burn. He didn't fall on the pin but a pretty solid .5 Camalot.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area
By: Andy Hansen When: May 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry Saxfiend, I'm with John and Killis. The grades seem pretty right on here and, generally speaking, soft elsewhere in Red Rock though not all places.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Cold Front (5.12b)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent looking line guys!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Sherlocked (5.10c)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't care what it's called. Sherlocked sounds better than Indiana Pwns. I was offering history, as Rhoads stated, not diminishing anyone's efforts on climbing this line.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress is closed until further notice due to rockfall in the area. There are signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That does not suck.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome face.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Sherlocked (5.10c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember TR'ing this in the summer of 2009. We called it "Indiana Pwns" and rated it 5.9+. Didn't lead it though. OK climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Bobsled Direct Start aka Wa... (5.12)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally I think this route barely tips the scale at 5.12. A hard entrance move leads to easier climbing and then probably mid-11 climbing on Bobsled. More like 5.12a as the entrance moves are barely V4, but, nonetheless, this climb is good with a weird finish on Bobsled.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Bobsled (5.11c/d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The righthand sidepull that Stephen (above) speaks of is definitely loose and about to go. Though thankfully there exists a sidepull slightly lower and to the left of said loose sidepull. Certainly makes the crux (which I thought was between bolts 1 and 2) a bit more reach and difficult but still doable. I normally wouldn't rate sport climbs of this nature PG13, or R for that matter, but this one warrants the PG-13 rating. First of all, the moves between bolts 1 and 2 are now considerably more d... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Zach, you're right. Two single ropes (or one single rope "doubled" via a bight as you've described) would put far too much force into the system in the case of a fall. Whenever I use two single ropes I'm only climbing on one of those ropes (only one rope is in the belayers belay device) and the other is usually a tag line for rappelling. Burt has described the use of twin and half ropes accurately. The more you know...
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11 PG13)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: No R rated climbing on this route. Barely borderlines PG13 but there is a touch o' spice on the 3rd pitch. We had a double rack from .3-3 Camalot and singles of #4 and #5. This seemed to suffice just fine.
Pitch breakdown for us: P1 5.11a 200', P2 5.10++ 120', P3 5.11a 160', P4 5.9 175', P5 5.7 50'
On pitch 3, once above the squeeze that apparently is "impossible to protect if you're bigger than Tony B..." (not true, easily protects with some smaller gear inside the crack- not a h... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty damn classic route! Josh's rack is right on but I definitely though having the 2nd #2 and #3 Camalots was beneficial. The cruxes are surprisingly deceptive and well protected by fat bolts. Pitch Breakdown: P1, 120' 5.8+ P2, 150' 5.9+ P3, 120' 5.6 P4, 160' 5.8 P5, 180' 5.10c P6, 100' 5.10a P7, 100' 5.11b P8, 90' 5.11c P9, 110' 5.11a
A fantastic route up an intimidatingly steep wall! A RR classic!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strong work, man!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : The Flying Dutchman (5.4 WI2-3)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed The Flying Dutchman on 3/14. Snow was decent for the most part. When almost at the ice, the snow got steeper and we were punching through past our knees. The ice took 13 and 17cm screws. The Loft descent was tricky but doable.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely not a Grade V. Good route though.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lucky! Looks like a fun winter out there Burt! When will ye be comin to CO?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : 99 Problems (M5-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route name. "Got 99 problems, but a pitch ain't one..." would sound nicer in the title Unless you're worried about copyright infringement. Check out O-Dub's variation on the song.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was pretty damn good from bottom to top... save for the last contrived 15 feet where it's easier to go right at the ledge into an easy corner system and then step back left using jugs to clip the last bolt and up climb to the anchor. I also thought the lower section was pretty difficult, but honestly clipping the 2nd bolt was not hard. The moves \after the 2nd bolt are hard! I think lock-off strength and precision footwork are a quality skill set to possess when cli... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Southeast Face (5.6 WI2+ M1 Mod. Snow)
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friend Tom and I climbed this route today in less than ideal conditions. Luckily this route is worth the suffering. Realistically most of the route can be simul-climbed, and there are two or so pitches that you might want to rope up for. The first pitch, the WI2 section, should be roped up for but can easily be skirted on the left, but why would you do that? The second roped pitch is a M1 pitch about 200' above and left of the ice pitch at the top of a small couloir. We opted to go left where... more >>
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Location: Andy Hansen : Traditional : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even better route!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Phi Iota Epsilon... It's a fraternity thing guys, you wouldn't understand.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was up on this yesterday and the weather/exposure was beautiful. Once again I didn't do the correct beta on this route and ended up making it about as hard as Tagger's P2. Instead of getting to the great horizontal jug below the roof, I traversed at the undercling along marginal crimps. I thought it seemed hard for 5.9. Either way, it's nice to have some small cams/stoppers/RPs for this one. Pretty cool route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Monkey Bar Boulder : Monkey Left (V2) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is classic!
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