Comments: I'll go out on a limb and say that this route is ***. If it were cleaner, it would be classic as it climbs a unique feature for this part of the Canyon. The hardest moves are right off the deck and are bolt protected from the neighboring route - there's no way to avoid the bolts really, so clip' em if you lead this. I placed gear on TR for a future lead and would go so far to say that this would be a stiff R rated climb. It could probably stand to use a good scrubbing too.
Comments: This is a great route, and I'll agree with the comment about tension and technique being of more value than pure finger strength. However, it doesn't hurt to have some good old fashion burl when it comes to bearing down on those crimps. The crux holds are good, the feet okay with some straightforward, hard rock climbing. This felt much more doable and not annoying like the newer 12b on Oceanic Wall.
Comments: Tricky route to onsight but well worth the effort to do so. Not a great route to push the grade on in my opinion as a groundfall is possible if you blow the hardest (yeah, the hardest moves are off the ground) moves of the route getting to the first bolt. Being tall is helpful and footwork is key higher up. Good crack moves to finish the route as well.
Comments: To Page: leave the tricams at home. A wonky but reliable #1 Camalot in a slot + a threaded sling (use your nut tool) in a hueco works really well. Or just bury yourself in the slot behind the flake and use the terrain to your advantage.
Comments: I'll give my two cents here: this was a frustrating route for me to say the least. I read the above comments from Adam and thought to myself, "It can't be that hard...." The boulder problem at the first bolt is devious, but once you've wired it (thanks for the beta, Jay...), it seems right on for 12a. I guess I didn't think twice about the runout above bolt two, but off the rest stance at bolts 4/5, the route is strenuous, technical, and deceptive. It took me many goes to finally wire these move... more >>
Comments: 5.9+ and not easier than DoWT. There is some beta at the crux that makes this feel easier. Going left to a "jug" left of the crack instead of going right is helpful. This may seem counterintuitive and somewhat "spicy" but that's what has worked for me and I've done this half a dozen times. Tick it at 10a if you want but I think Chicken Eruptus and Kemosabe are more 10a than this.
Comments: Good rock, great clipping stances, awesome movement. I don't think it necessarily deserves 4-stars, but I think 3.5 would be appropriate. The only drawback is that the crux is over all too soon.... Probably a bit harder for shorter folks, but I guess shorties have done it quite easily in the past? Some long draws are nice.
Comments: This route is bizarre in that trad climbing sort of way. There are some well-protected moves upon entering the corner, good stems, and tricky gear going out the roof. Body English if you're short, a long reach to a good lock if you're tall. I'll echo Tony B's gear rec. x2 in the 0.3-0.5 Camalot range, some C3s or equivalent, small stoppers and maybe a #1 Camalot. Good, funky, unique route for this grade in Boulder Canyon.
Comments: Like the lightweight that I am, I took a fall here. I should have remembered this picture of Manny. Like the lightweight that I am, I went left side in... Trying to turn around from that position to right side in, I got spit out. Pretty surprising fall and on a tipped out #5 Camalot which I thought was virtually useless. It turned out to be pretty solid. Awesome route!
Comments: As of March 6th, 2014, there is still a fixed wire on the 2nd pitch. I would recommend using runners on all gear above the crux as there is a rope eating flake at the top of the 5.8 corner. Still a great route, too!