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Location: WY : Fremont Canyon
By: Andy Busse When: Aug 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking for a partner 8/25 -8/28
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin : Barber Route (5.10 X)
By: Andy Busse When: Oct 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are similar formations in abundant supply through out the southern Hills and there seems to be possibilities of other lines on the same formation. Why play into Mr. Barbers' theatrics for this one particular route? I haven't met any developers who don't condemn the modification of their work without their consent.
The route is classic because it is Mr. Barber's, it was spicey (now super spicey), and it is next to the road in the Park. Had Mr. Horning had the original FA without M... more >>
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Location: SD : Photo
By: Andy Busse When: Apr 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Private Property.
I went out with the landowner and checked it out a few years ago, super fragile.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation
By: Andy Busse When: Nov 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That crack is IHOP 5.10
Bob Archbold route
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Olton's Shoulder Area : Olton’s Shoulder 1936 Origi... (5.8)
By: Andy Busse When: Oct 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route was climbed last year for the new guidebook. The rappel is somewhat standard for the area and functions quite well for the amount of traffic it has seen. Please keep in mind this is one of the original routes for the entire Black Hills and to modify for your own peace of mind would only devalue the work of the original first ascent party from 1936, even if they stood on someone's shoulder to get it done!
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : The Butcher's Hand : Blood Sausage (5.11)
By: Andy Busse When: Jul 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Work
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Breezy Point
By: Andy Busse When: Jul 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have any info on the routes at the top of Breezy Point? There are 4 sport routes approx 50' long with older Trango?? hangers 5.9-5.10.
Thanks,
ab
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Moonstone (5.10-)
By: Andy Busse When: Jun 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just looking for info about the newer route just climbers' left of Moonstone??
5.10 Sport 75' 7 bolts.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker
By: Andy Busse When: Jun 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route beta on new addition to climbers' left of Moonstone???
thanks,
ab
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker
By: Andy Busse When: Jun 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking for route beta on a new line 50' uphill (NE) of Solo System, it is 5.8 35' with 3 bolts. I need the info for the book????
Whittle?
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Broken Promises (5.10a PG13)
By: Andy Busse When: Jun 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The moss is scrubbed, three bolts were added to the top and should be ready to go.
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Location: SD
By: Andy Busse When: Mar 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hello to All,
Seriously:
We have again for the last time, set out to complete a new version of the Mount Rushmore National Memorial Rock Climbing Guidebook. I am currently unemployed and not in school for the first time in 10 years; this project will be completed this spring/summer 09-10-11-12????.
We would like to extend an invite to any developers to submit their contributions if they would like them published or be recognized for their work. Please email me at busseandrew@yahoo... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Pelican's Dyke (5.10c/d)
By: Andy Busse When: Dec 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Caleb,
are you sure it is spinal tap and not They Came from MN??? where did you get your info and do you know FA??
thanks,
ab
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Bushwhacker (5.9)
By: Andy Busse When: Dec 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just looking for route name and FA party / year for the guidebook???
ANY ideas?
thanks,
andrew busse
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem...
By: Andy Busse When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rushmore Route INFO:
Please submit any info if you would like it included in the new book using the following format as best as possible.
Formation Name (Range ###’ - ###’)
Location (GPS N##°##.### W###°##.###): Describe the formation area.
Description: As needed.
Approach: Try to use only landmarks, cardinal directions, and distances in ft.
Descent: If Walk-Off, how, ... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : Garfield's Forgiven Affair (5.9+)
By: Andy Busse When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchors are located at the edge of the ramp, not in the crack. They would serve as great rap anchors off the top of Garfield, but are not located to serve as a belay station for climbing Garfield.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : Wife Sentence (5.10+ PG13)
By: Andy Busse When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rated E for Everyone, as long as you take it when you get it, wife is good; beware, do not pass an opportunity if she is willing to give it up.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : Nick of Time (5.10)
By: Andy Busse When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hex is MIA.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Breezy Point : Sentinel Rock : Photo
By: Andy Busse When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sentinel Rock
The red line is Unforgivable Acts, and the yellow line is Sinful Acts.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : Political Prowness (5.10b)
By: Andy Busse When: Oct 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear:
(Camalots #00-#2 x 2, #3 x 1/Stoppers 1 set/MicroStoppers 2 sets/many runners, 2 ropes for rappel)
Notes on climb:
MUST DO ALL-TIME CLASSIC 5.10c/d *****
1)the route protects well, but you must place gear every time you get it, especially on pitch 2 & 3 (LK). be prepared to use the small stuff. bolts were recently replaced, thank Duane Martenson.
3)the traverse pt was not apparent, just below(approx 5-10' below) the overhanging diagonal crack on the headwall, traver... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Monster : Crystal Ship (5.12a)
By: Andy Busse When: Mar 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this route is to the left of Dark Tower.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block
By: Andy Busse When: Jan 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mexican Correspondent,CL, give me a call in AL at the same number as before. I am looking for some gear you rescued for the sisters. Hope all is well....
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Pelican's Dyke (5.10c/d)
By: Andy Busse When: Apr 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can anyone provide me with route info about the bolts directly to climber's left of Pelican's Dyke? They seem to be recently placed and lead to nowhere? ThanksAndrew
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : 11th Hour Gulch : 11th Hour Center (WI3)
By: Andy Busse When: Feb 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ice is still good, even with past warm spell.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress...
By: Andy Busse When: Oct 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take it easy Curt, Have a good off-season.We look forward to hearing from you time to time....Andy Busse
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