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Member Since: Mar 22, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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All (186) | Routes (5) | Areas (1) | Photos | Comments (61) | Posts (66) | Stars (41) | Ratings (12)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Oops I sharted (5.11+)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: Steeper and slightly harder than the crux pitch of Pissgums, but thankfully a bit shorter. I'd recommend thin kneepads, thick pants, and long sleeves, plus a tape glove for the left hand. There is some pretty loose and questionable rock on the third pitch that the leader must gingerly tiptoe around, be careful. 2 #6's will indeed make you feel a whole lot better. Have...fun?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Steep Short Green Streak (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: The third pitch of this route is an excellent stemming corner. From the top of Pitch 1, the leader can continue up and slightly right over easy 3rd class terrain to a group of small trees; here it may be possible to belay off of the trees+gear (we came in later from the saddle after realizing that there was a 2nd and 3rd pitch). Climb the short "approach" pitch (5.9) and gain a ledge with bolt anchors to the left. Climb the exceptional corner! All pitches are well bolted, but ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High...
By: Andy Bennett When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: !!!ALWAYS DOUBLE-CHECK IN-SITU CARABINERS ON MT. LEMMON!!!

It goes without saying that the responsible, observant, and life-loving climber always does this. It is easy to become complacent though, especially when sport cragging. In light of several recent casualties, and at least one fatality due to rope-severing "perma-biners", I wanted to remind everyone to do this. Many... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Golder Dome : Ten Years After (5.10+)
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Bringing some extra webbing and a knife is a good idea out here in the Pusch. We cleaned up all of the old tat on Ten Years, but what we left will be outdated by the time the summer sun is done with it. This climb sports surprisingly solid rock that climbs quite well, it's definitely one of the better backcountry lines that I've been on in the local area.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Mendoza Now Open for Business, September 1-April 31 Each Year.

G&F has set up a two-year "access experiment" with the King's Anvil Ranch to allow limited access to the Domes through the Ranch, September 1st-April 31st each year. If you'd like to climb in Mendoza, first read this short document, then call Matt Walton to get the gate code. Don't, I repeat, DO NOT share the code with anyone outside you... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Sweet Surrender (5.11+ PG13)
By: Andy Bennett When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: The final moves on the direct finish were protected by a bolt that is now missing its hanger; not sure why it's gone, but a protectable hole a few feet away may explain that...The direct finish gets the stars!

Steiger's info: www.climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/page_html/page118.html


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Weathertop
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 26, 2013

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Comments: One standard 70m rap will get you down to the base. To find the rap station, keep following the faint trail S-SW along the top of the cliff to a cairn; you'll need to leave something at the anchor.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : FIUTT (5.9)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: We did the 5.10 finish the other day and it's well-worth doing. It's tricky but not impossible to protect. Save as many aid/tips/finger size pieces, slings, and RPs as you can, as well as a hands-size cam, for this direct finish. Belay off your harness against the front of the alcove that you top-out in (bad rock quality for anchors), or use the pine tree way behind you; I'm not sure if a 70m would make it back to the ground, mine doesn't have a middle mark...This climb could use a bol... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Straight Arrow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: It's the slot's rock quality, not the geometry of the placement, that gave me the heebies...it's one of those placements ringed with that dark, crispy crust that you become so terribly familiar with after trad-climbing on Lemmon for awhile. Leading this pre-cams would probably have been much harder!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Straight Arrow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Andy Bennett When: Dec 14, 2012

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Comments: Not 5.10 and (still) not safe. I finally figured out the #2 hex placement. You can get something else there, too, that will make you feel a little better about life before launching into the crux. Great climbing through the crux, but the choss begins sprouting higher up...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Coati Corner (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: I, too, was surprised by the bolts. I climbed nearly the entire route on gear, placing only one micro-cam that really wasn't necessary, and felt very safe the whole time...very safe even by Cochise standards. I did clip the last bolt, but the fixed nut is only 2' or 3' below...mental strength? The anchors are just above that last bolt... Surprising and disappointing. Perhaps the bolts should be removed. Sounds like a tremendous lead by Kerry, nevertheless! And a completely killer route.

What's ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Nov 1, 2012

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Comments: I spoke with Steve Grossman and he gave the approval to leave the new bolt as is, thus creating a safe belay with one bolt and semi-fixed gear (the nut pulled, I've been told). Now you can climb the entire 2nd pitch in all its glory to a logical, safe belay. Thanks to Geir for pulling the old bolts at the "mid-way-belay".

If you're feeling frisky, continue on through the 3rd and 4th pitch. Wear a helmet.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Magnus Veritas (5.11)
By: Andy Bennett When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: Thoughts of climbing this one have long chilled my blood but, once we finally sacked up to it, it wasn't so bad. You're really more likely the star in a flick chock full of obscenities than a gory maul-fest. I'll say that if you can confidently pull the well-protected cruxes of the 2nd pitch, you should have no trouble with the "PG-13/Soft-R" run-outs above. As the poster notes, new bolts may have made this one much safer than it was BITD; of course you can always stay left and avoid t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Sabrina Basin Bouldering
By: Andy Bennett When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: as far as I know there are no established problems. I found a lot of fun stuff. Go have an adventure and tell us what you find...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: Andy Bennett When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: The direct start-that is, starting under the little roof in the middle of the picture and climbing directly into the finger crack-is excellent.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: I don't normally respond to anonymous posters who sling unfounded assumptions and orders around, but a friend of mine let me know about this and I feel it right to respond. For your information, "black death", I carry a bolt kit on back-country climbs so that I can replace existing anchors. Some people call it "community service". If you've climbed The Odyssey, first of all you know it to be a fantastic climb and, second, you know the nature of the anchors and, especially more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags
By: Andy Bennett When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Still CLOSED March 15-June 31. Climbing during the closure has the potential to hurt us all, please don't be a jackass. The Steep, Reef, Raycreation Area, South Park and others are good hot-weather alternatives during the closure.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: I will second Charles' ratings for this climb-just stellar climbing. Good gear, excellent movement, and the longest splitter that I have ever had the pleasure of sinking locks into on the entire mountain. A must-do for the Mt Lemmon tradist. We placed a bolt at the 2nd pitch anchor to augment the nut and sharp-horn sling.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Pinhead Wall
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 24, 2012

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Comments: We found an olive green "Quechua" snowboardingtype jacket at the base yesterday...pm me and you can be reunited


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Andy Bennett When: Dec 7, 2011

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Comments: I have recently learned that the AZGFD is about to sign an agreement with the Anvil Ranch owners to provide for unfettered hiker/climber access into Coyote Domes from September-April every year. This is not a done deal, but sounds like it will be soon.

Regardless of what happens in this deal, we must continue to RESPECT all private property (which does includes part of the access road, gates, animals, traps, etc.) in this area, or we're going to loose access. Drive from point A-B, park at the... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : The Windows Route (5.10)
By: Andy Bennett When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: Anyone know the general aspect of this route (sun/shade and time to expect either)?

Thanks


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk
By: Andy Bennett When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: (Nearly) Infallible approach beta:

There's been a lot of helpful but sometimes contradictory approach beta posted up here. Let me save you some time and effort, and nature a lot of erosion and social trails.

1) A brand new wilderness sign is definitely present, but it's nowhere near the turnoff, standing at least a good 3/4-1mi before it. Keep hiking past the sign for 15-30min (depending on your load and your legs). You'll soon see Little Slide Canyon reigning above on your left.

2) Keep hi... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Any one know/recall how many of the belays are gear?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Helm's Deep (5.10+)
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 13, 2011

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Comments: We're on those bolts soon as the heat sets in down in the valley, Paul. The bolts on the third pitch spun in their holes upon mild tweaking...

I'd love to know more about this route and all the routes on this area of Rap Rock. There seems to be a rich history of "bringing it" around there. RR's blue suede shoes and hexes...?! I felt rather anxious with Stealth rubber, micro-cams and the better part of my kitchen sink.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : The Tombstone
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 11, 2011

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Comments: The new trail (courtesy of Geir H. and Co.) offers a much better approach. Access it at the small parking area (roughly directly across from the Tombstone) on your right that you reach before you get to the end of the road.


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