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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal...
By: Andy Bennett When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: !!!ALWAYS DOUBLE-CHECK IN-SITU CARABINERS ON MT. LEMMON!!!
It goes without saying that the responsible, observant, and life-loving climber always does this. It is easy to become complacent though, especially when sport cragging. In light of several recent casualties, and at least one fatality due to rope-severing "perma-biners", I wanted to remind everyone to do this. Many... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Golder Dome : Ten Years After (5.10+)
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bringing some extra webbing and a knife is a good idea out here in the Pusch. We cleaned up all of the old tat on Ten Years, but what we left will be outdated by the time the summer sun is done with it. This climb sports surprisingly solid rock that climbs quite well, it's definitely one of the better backcountry lines that I've been on in the local area.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mendoza Now Open for Business, September 1-April 31 Each Year.
G&F has set up a two-year "access experiment" with the King's Anvil Ranch to allow limited access to the Domes through the Ranch, September 1st-April 31st each year. If you'd like to climb in Mendoza, first read this short document, then call Matt Walton to get the gate code. Don't, I repeat, DO NOT share the code with anyone outside you... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Sweet Surrender (5.11+ PG13)
By: Andy Bennett When: Feb 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The final moves on the direct finish were protected by a bolt that is now missing its hanger; not sure why it's gone, but a protectable hole a few feet away may explain that...The direct finish gets the stars!
Steiger's info: www.climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/page_html/page118.html
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : Weathertop
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One standard 70m rap will get you down to the base. To find the rap station, keep following the faint trail S-SW along the top of the cliff to a cairn; you'll need to leave something at the anchor.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : FIUTT (5.9)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did the 5.10 finish the other day and it's well-worth doing. It's tricky but not impossible to protect. Save as many aid/tips/finger size pieces, slings, and RPs as you can, as well as a hands-size cam, for this direct finish. Belay off your harness against the front of the alcove that you top-out in (bad rock quality for anchors), or use the pine tree way behind you; I'm not sure if a 70m would make it back to the ground, mine doesn't have a middle mark...This climb could use a bol... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Straight Arrow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's the slot's rock quality, not the geometry of the placement, that gave me the heebies...it's one of those placements ringed with that dark, crispy crust that you become so terribly familiar with after trad-climbing on Lemmon for awhile. Leading this pre-cams would probably have been much harder!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Straight Arrow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Andy Bennett When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not 5.10 and (still) not safe. I finally figured out the #2 hex placement. You can get something else there, too, that will make you feel a little better about life before launching into the crux. Great climbing through the crux, but the choss begins sprouting higher up...
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Coati Corner (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I, too, was surprised by the bolts. I climbed nearly the entire route on gear, placing only one micro-cam that really wasn't necessary, and felt very safe the whole time...very safe even by Cochise standards. I did clip the last bolt, but the fixed nut is only 2' or 3' below...mental strength? The anchors are just above that last bolt... Surprising and disappointing. Perhaps the bolts should be removed. Sounds like a tremendous lead by Kerry, nevertheless! And a completely killer route.
What's ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I spoke with Steve Grossman and he gave the approval to leave the new bolt as is, thus creating a safe belay with one bolt and semi-fixed gear (the nut pulled, I've been told). Now you can climb the entire 2nd pitch in all its glory to a logical, safe belay. Thanks to Geir for pulling the old bolts at the "mid-way-belay".
If you're feeling frisky, continue on through the 3rd and 4th pitch. Wear a helmet.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Magnus Veritas (5.11)
By: Andy Bennett When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thoughts of climbing this one have long chilled my blood but, once we finally sacked up to it, it wasn't so bad. You're really more likely the star in a flick chock full of obscenities than a gory maul-fest. I'll say that if you can confidently pull the well-protected cruxes of the 2nd pitch, you should have no trouble with the "PG-13/Soft-R" run-outs above. As the poster notes, new bolts may have made this one much safer than it was BITD; of course you can always stay left and avoid t... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Sabrina Basin Bouldering
By: Andy Bennett When: Jul 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: as far as I know there are no established problems. I found a lot of fun stuff. Go have an adventure and tell us what you find...
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: Andy Bennett When: Jun 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct start-that is, starting under the little roof in the middle of the picture and climbing directly into the finger crack-is excellent.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't normally respond to anonymous posters who sling unfounded assumptions and orders around, but a friend of mine let me know about this and I feel it right to respond. For your information, "black death", I carry a bolt kit on back-country climbs so that I can replace existing anchors. Some people call it "community service". If you've climbed The Odyssey, first of all you know it to be a fantastic climb and, second, you know the nature of the anchors and, especially more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags
By: Andy Bennett When: Jun 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still CLOSED March 15-June 31. Climbing during the closure has the potential to hurt us all, please don't be a jackass. The Steep, Reef, Raycreation Area, South Park and others are good hot-weather alternatives during the closure.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: May 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will second Charles' ratings for this climb-just stellar climbing. Good gear, excellent movement, and the longest splitter that I have ever had the pleasure of sinking locks into on the entire mountain. A must-do for the Mt Lemmon tradist. We placed a bolt at the 2nd pitch anchor to augment the nut and sharp-horn sling.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : Pinhead Wall
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We found an olive green "Quechua" snowboardingtype jacket at the base yesterday...pm me and you can be reunited
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Andy Bennett When: Dec 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have recently learned that the AZGFD is about to sign an agreement with the Anvil Ranch owners to provide for unfettered hiker/climber access into Coyote Domes from September-April every year. This is not a done deal, but sounds like it will be soon.
Regardless of what happens in this deal, we must continue to RESPECT all private property (which does includes part of the access road, gates, animals, traps, etc.) in this area, or we're going to loose access. Drive from point A-B, park at the... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : The Windows Route (5.10)
By: Andy Bennett When: Oct 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know the general aspect of this route (sun/shade and time to expect either)?
Thanks
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