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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower
By: Andrew Gram When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Add the subsections and then let me know which routes to move where. I'll take care of the moving for you.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : 5.9 (5.9)
By: Andrew Gram When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really contrived. The start is good, but staying out of the gully at the top is unnatural and silly.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Of Quartz It Goes (5.7)
By: Andrew Gram When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. Back in the day, I think it had 3 or 4 bolts, one of which had a hanger that was nearly rusted through. I'm not upset to see this route retro-bolted with permission, but I hope not every old sparsely protected route gets the same treatment.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Moonlight Ridge : The Galaxy : Dancing in the Moonlight (5.6 PG13)
By: Andrew Gram When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is nothing PG13 about this - it is an easy well protected sport route.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Of Quartz It Goes (5.7)
By: Andrew Gram When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How are the bolts on this? When I did this route back in the early 90s they were awful and far apart - I remember being terrified.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Andrew Gram When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it is better for trash to go into a landfill than a fragile desert environment.
Do you put your garbage in a can destined for a landfill, or do you chuck it out on your front lawn?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : You're Nicked, Who's Next? (5.10d)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ugh, I tried to change the FA information and blew away the route name instead. D'oh! Can somebody please tell me what the route name is so I can fix it?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+)
By: Andrew Gram When: Mar 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't have both routes and areas within an area, so you would have to add areas under lockhart basin for these towers. I'll keep an eye out and move the routes whenever something logical pops up.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall : Pike's Peak (5.7)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bold first lead - I wouldn't recommend it to a new leader. Nice route though.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall : The Mad Scientist (5.8+)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Contrived. The crack to the right of the crux is very nice and easier. Would have been better as a mixed bolts and gear route.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall : Electric Swimming Pool (5.9)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Handholds are solid now. Fun route.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : The Rose (5.7)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Something must have broken off at the crux. The crux felt harder than anything on the 5.9 on this wall, though the rest felt easy.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : Jason's Argonaut (5.10a)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few moves are much harder than the 9 to the right.
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Location: NV : Wheeler Peak
By: Andrew Gram When: Dec 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The skiing on Wheeler Peak and Jeff Davis in late spring is fantastic. Everything from easy fairly low angle corn to steep chutes.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Head of Sinbad North : Allison's Tower (5.10)
By: Andrew Gram When: Dec 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It ain't the titan, but it is steep on every side, has one narrow aspect, and is about as tall as it is wide on its widest aspect. The climbing is pretty decent too.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3) : Photo
By: Andrew Gram When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a stretch to compare lassoing a bolt to out of reach hooking or lassoing gargoyles - bolts aren't natural features.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate, Main Cliff : Marbellous (5.10d)
By: Andrew Gram When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Send me a message if someone is willing to rewrite the route description here - i'll reassign it to you.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Swaseyland : Maura's Tower - Join the Pa... (5.10 C0)
By: Andrew Gram When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is it on that same ridge of towers as a Walk on the Swasey Side? I looked at everything and nothing seemed to quite match up with the photos.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Head of Sinbad North : Allison's Tower (5.10)
By: Andrew Gram When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the small tower next to Worth the View Spire. It could probably be done on clean aid at around 5.7 C2, but getting onto the ledge at the end of the finger crack would be a tricky thrash.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Swaseyland : Maura's Tower - Join the Pa... (5.10 C0)
By: Andrew Gram When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I couldn't find this - any more detailed approach beta, or a photo of what it looks like from the road?
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Swaseyland : A walk on the Swasey Side (5.6)
By: Andrew Gram When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sandbag! The first pitch is more like 5.7 or 5.8. The second pitch has a hard bouldery move to start that is hard 5.8 or maybe even 5.9. Falling before the first bolt would be a bad idea on both pitches.
This thing is definitely nothing like a sport climb, and a small rack of small to medium cams is a good idea to build an anchor at the top of P1. You can also get in a bit of gear on P2, which helps getting to the high first bolt and to protect the second after the last bolt. The traverse... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Head of Sinbad South : Jacks' Tower- Pair of Jacks (5.8)
By: Andrew Gram When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice route in a beautiful setting. It is really 5.8 C0. The bolt protected section is pretty hard but easy to french free - maybe 5.10? Its an impressive looking tower to go free so easily - nice find John.
It is a little tricky to find. From the south, drive past Turkey Tower for a few miles(you can't see the tower from the road near Turkey Tower). After you descend into a low tree filled wash, keep your eyes peeled for a road heading sharply left from the main road. Keep straight a... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover, Original... (5.9+)
By: Andrew Gram When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm good at hand jamming and not good at face climbing. To me, Gordon's felt like 5.9 only because of the traverse, and the upper part felt fairly easy. Touch Up felt like 5.10. Go figure.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just noticed Brian says its obvious I haven't climbed there. Dude, I've climbed there, i've put up new routes in the swell, and i've done very early repeats of some of Paul's other routes in the desert. I do know the desert and the swell really well.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jul 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What does that have to do with anything? Being frightening is not bad, and the remote desert is a different place than a cragging area.
Its no secret that I get really scared on something like Gordon's Hangover in LCC(though I still lead it), but I manage to pull myself together and climb routes in the Fisher Towers or the San Rafael Swell that are way run out.
The difference between you and me is that I understand that I am a pansy, and try to work around it. I do that by not doing X rated ... more >>
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