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Andrew Wellman


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 17, 2005
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Point Rank: # 1,907
Total Points: 315
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Andrew Wellman been climbing?










Contributions


All 75 | Routes 25 | Areas 2 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts | Stars 25 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat...
By: Andrew Wellman When: Nov 4, 2004

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Comments: Anybody have anything to say about the conditions at vail yet?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Feb 7, 2004

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Comments: B.T.W. - The smear is in right now. I've been up there the last two weekends and its in better now than last weekend. I haven't really heard of it forming up mid season like this before. Know that it is rediculously freezing cold up there and the approach takes a long time in the current conditions. First pitch will be rock.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Bridalveil area
By: Andrew Wellman When: Dec 31, 2003

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Comments: So what's the deal with Bridalveil? Seen lots of reports that it's getting climbed. Is this legal now? Please say it's so.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Apr 30, 2003

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Comments: Ok, after a little bit of reflection I have just a little more to add, then I'll shut up. Since I don't have an international calling plan on my phone I'll refrain from calling Stevie, but I would at least like to apologize to him here(if he reads this). I was wrong in assuming this litter was his and slandering him like I did. I'll also apologize for my inciteful remarks above. I will not apologize for nailing on this route however, because just as Warren Harding would have said, climbing has n... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Apr 30, 2003

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Comments: Well, seems I may have stepped on some toes. If I speculated incorrectly and hurt peoples feelings and or reputations then I am a self proclaimed tool. I "speculated" that the ropes were left as litter from a free ascent, Stevie's being the only one I was aware of, because of their location on the route. They were fixed in a way that seemed to imply working on the route because I don't know of many aid ascents that would fix ropes to one pitch below the top. I speculted that they were litter bec... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: Climbed this route on 4/12/03. We took the mentality from the beginning that it would go in a day, and it did, but we definately underestimated the route a little bit. The beta given by ben is fairly accurate. I would note a few things, though. I wasn't able to get pitch 1 clean cause I didn't have many red aliens I guess. I found that the only real useful pins for the route were sawed offs. I would recommend bringing a good slection of about 6 or so. Baby angles, blades, and beaks were not nec... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Pringles (5.11+)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Mar 11, 2002

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Comments: I beleive this climb is named Pringles, and felt to me like about 11c/d or so. Somebody told me it was 11+. The first long bit is all thin liebacking, going from fingers to tippy tips, then nothing as you do some weird stemming through the crux bulge. Gorilla crack is easily reachable from here but is off. Using gorilla crack would definately lower the rating to 11-. Interestingly enough, at least 3 good rests are found in the lower lieback section, with the best, a no hands stem, coming in the ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : The Tapeworm (5.9 A3 R)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Oct 24, 2001

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Comments: Ben- O.K. Im pretty sure I get what you're saying. I guess my question went more like this. In granite, you usually have a number of placements that you know probably won't take a fall - heads, beaks, most hooks, tiny RPs, sketchy tied offs etc. This would obviously be the same on sandstone. But say you're in the middle of some A3 Fisher Towers pitch and after a long ways get in a decent angle. That's the only piece from you to the belay that might hold a fall, but becasue the rock is usually su... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : The Tapeworm (5.9 A3 R)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Oct 24, 2001

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Comments: Ben, again I'm really impressed. That doesn't sound like very much fun to me, but some people have different ideas of fun. A few questions: When you say A3 nailing in the fishers, I'm curious as to what you mean. Do you typically evaluate placements like you would in granite, and rate them that way, thereby making an A3 fishers pitch way scarier than an A3 El Cap pithc because the rock quality is always suspect. Or do you take rock quality into consideration, meaning an A3 pitch would probably b... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Aug 13, 2001

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Comments: Stan or anyone else, please give full details of the new anchors. I climbed the route on 8/10 and didn't see any anchors. I had to use the "squirelly" anchors that Steve describes. I wouldn't lower off of them, I backed them up with cams to set up topropes for friends, then had to climb up to the West face to clean the anchor. I looked all around and didn't see any bolts or anchors, so if there are some there, please post a message about their exact whereabouts. Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Aug 11, 2001

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Comments: A comment about the pro. AS of 8/10/01, I am pretty sure there is no pin. From the description, however, I'm not sure where the pin and TCU placements are supposed to be, before or after the bolts. This is how I found the pro- 5.6 to a green Camalot (.75) placement maybe 15 feet off the ground. Continue another 15 feet to a bolt(5.8). 10 feet to another bolt(.9+). A short, two move crux (5.10b) then about 25-30 feet of 5.8 with no pro. I used the anchors at the top of Backtalk, but I know you ca... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Simmer (5.9)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route is pretty fun. I found that you can skip the trad gear by using the first three bolts of Bolt Cola, until the bolts on simmer start.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Cable Route (5.4)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: As a side note to this description, I would like everyone to know that the North Face, or Cables Route, is the quickest way to descend off the summit of Longs to the Boulder Field. From the summit, walk pretty much NE down the third class slopes which are cairned and almost have a trail. The technical pitch or two at the bottom of the face can be easily downclimbed by a confident climber or rappelled even easier using the fixed eyebolts as anchors. With one or two ropes I believe it is a double ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch of this climb is beautiful and good, but not the whole route! After climbing the first .9+ crack and setting up and anchor with #3 Camalots, continue climbing straight up the huge dihedral that involves lots of good and not too hard stemming (5.8/9). There are lots of fixed pins on this pitch, but bring the gear as well. Belay from slings on a fixed two-pin anchor. The third pitch is the crux. Climb up through one of Eldos notorious broken/rotten bands(5.8 s). It is rated s... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbol... (5.11+)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I watched someone lead this route today (3/4/01). It was very impressive. The route apparently had good gear cause he sewed it up like I sewed up 5.10 crack, with seven pieces including a cam or two!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: As of 4/14 there is one fixed pin on the second pitch. It is pretty low down and is very easy to clip, but is not in the greatest location for catching a fall from the crux. There is a ledge above the belay and below the pin that you will land on should you fall from up high and either haven placed RPs at the crux or your RP ripped. The crux of this route is tricky, slabby, very thin, and fun. I definately recomend trying it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: We missed the face as well. I guess you have to break up and right from the middle of the fourth pitch to climb the Zot Face pitch. This would require a hanging belay. We climbed the whole left-angling crack to a terrible ledge with tons of loose blocks and a tree. The last pitch was a runout face, but I suppose not the "Zot Face"


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I looked around for the initials on Outer Space today(4/18), but couldn't find them. I stopped and looked at every conceivable sloping stance where a hanging belay would be possible. Any hints, how big are they.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D1 (5.12a)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Steve, thanks a ton for contributing this route. Although I won soon be climbing it, its awesome to be able to read about it. Please contribute more routes of this nature. I also love reading your historical footnotes to some of the classic and obscure routes on this site. Thanks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Andrew Wellman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route is [unbelievable]. It is [definitely] the best route I have climbed at Eldo. [Rossiter's] book gives it and "s" rating, and this can be interpreted as "a 15 foot traverse to the left, that if [your] pro pulled during a fall, or while trying to clip the pin, would [deposit] you [...10 feet up?] onto a ledge." This one gets an "s" for the same reason Rosy Crucifixion does, a fall at the beginning might be interesting. I just wanted to clarify this [because] you never know. If you have l... more >>