Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Me and Pasha on Reveil Matin in Chongkurchak, Kyrgyzstan.


Member Since: Mar 23, 2011
Last Visit: Aug 4, 2014
Contact Amadeus


Point Rank: # 600
Total Points: 1,048
Last Year: 391
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Amadeus been climbing?










Contributions


All 196 | Routes 46 | Areas 17 | Photos 64 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 25 | Stars 31 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Ala Archa National Park : Ratsek Trail and Ak Sai Gla... : Sharkaraktma Waterfall (WI3-)
By: Amadeus When: Dec 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Came up here on December 7, 2013. The ice was not fully frozen, but was just hard enough to climb all but the final vertical pitch as there was a section about 4 meters tall halfway up where you could see water running underneath. Thin ice and running water doesn't make a good combo...


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Chongkurchak : The Small Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Amadeus When: Jan 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: chandelier ice everywhere. Two years ago all this ice was blue and beautiful. This year it was layers of snow and ice all the way through which made it really hard to find good screw placements.


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Kegeti Valley : Kegeti Waterfall (WI4-)
By: Amadeus When: Nov 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Well the waterfall is definitely NOT frozen yet on November 24th. There is some ice, but not enough to climb yet. Gonna have to wait a little longer. However, after spending about 2 hours or more hammering away with Jeff Waalkes, there is now a beautiful new anchor at the top of the waterfall. Using double ropes is the best for this anchor as it is probably 31 meters to the bottom..just a little too far for a single rope rappel.


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Kegeti Valley : Kegeti Waterfall (WI4-)
By: Amadeus When: Nov 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Going to check this out November 24th. Its early in the season, but other online reports sound like its already frozen! If its not then we're bolting a mixed route straight up to the top from the small piece of ice.


Location: Amadeus : Climbing pics : Photo
By: Amadeus When: May 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Had to go from the left side to the right side and back again all the way to clean up the screws. That was a real arm burner!


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Barskoon Valley : Barada Aksakal (White Beard... (WI5-) : Photo
By: Amadeus When: May 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The sun was almost gone, an abalokov just wasn't working out, and the ice wasn't good enough for a one screw anchor so Jeff and I had to leave two screws up at the top. Unfortunately neither of them were bad bail screws. But Jeff and I would rather be alive than keep our "precious" gear! All in all though, this was a great climb! A little wet, but superb!


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Barskoon Valley : Barada Aksakal (White Beard... (WI5-)
By: Amadeus When: Feb 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This waterfall is big and really imposing. Absolutely beautiful climb though.


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Barskoon Valley : The Cup of Manas Waterfall (WI4-)
By: Amadeus When: Feb 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun waterfall. Good warm-up for the larger waterfalls in the area. There is a second pitch further up the creek that looks like it could be pretty fun!


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Barskoon Valley : Tears of the Snow Leopard W... (WI5+) : Photo
By: Amadeus When: Feb 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Saw another picture from this year. The whole left section isn't there this year. I'll be going this weekend so I'll put up an updated picture.


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Barskoon Valley : The Cup of Manas Waterfall (WI4-) : Photo
By: Amadeus When: Feb 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Going this weekend, so I'll put up an updated picture soon. Hope the ice is solid!


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Kegeti Valley : Kegeti Waterfall (WI4-) : Photo
By: Amadeus When: Feb 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The ice was good all the way till the last 10 meters. It got really thin up there with the waterfall still flowing underneath. On the rappel I took a cold shower when I burst through the thin spot!


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Photo
By: Amadeus When: Feb 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Looked a bit different yesterday, but still just as awesome!


Location: International : Asia : Kyrgyzstan : Malinevaya Ushelia / Raspbe...
By: Amadeus When: Dec 23, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Once you are at the area, you will notice a large overhanging prow at the very top of the wall. This is what you will need to build a large sling over and then using two locking biners to secure a top rope and a rappel rope, clip into the rappel rope, swing out (its a big swing) and rappel down. Not for the faint of heart!! There are a couple of pitons stuck in the rock up there that you could rap off of instead, but I have absolutely no idea how long those have been there...This place desper... more >>