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Member Since: May 2, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Alvaro Arnal


Point Rank: # 458
Total Points: 1,299
Last Year: 166
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alvaro Arnal been climbing?










Contributions


All 468 | Routes 77 | Areas 19 | Photos 39 | Page Improvments | Comments 44 | Posts 123 | Stars 140 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Hurricane Wall : 1000 Hurricane (5.12b/c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Just got on this today, and I have to agree with Phil: super hard, bouldery crux through the first 3 bolts that felt V6ish to me. Maybe I was doing it wrong? It's not over after that either; the steep headwall above has big moves and is pumpy!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Tarzan (5.12c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: A 70 or 60 meter rope will reach the slab at the base of the climb from the p1 anchors.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : The Engagement (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: The 0.75 is no longer needed at the start of this route. I believe a low bolt may have been added?


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : Len's World (5.12d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Hard hard crux move involving a double gaston iron cross at full extension! The roofy climbing above the break is also excellent.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Insurrection (5.14c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Damn, Mark, nice job sending this thing!


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Art of Suffering (5.12c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Maybe I was just really tired at the end of a long climbing day, but the start of this route was super powerful, tweaky and hard for me! Still, looking forward to coming back and trying this again when I'm fresh.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Subprime (5.10d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Got on this last week, and a bolt has been added to eliminate the run-out to the anchors. Much safer now. 7 bolts.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Peter- if you send me an update of what the order should be, I can re-order them for you. Sorry I'm not very familiar with the ordering of the routes on the lower wall.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Fried Lizard Gizzard (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I agree; the extension to the top of cliff is worth getting on. 5.12a, 8 more bolts to the anchors, a 60-meter rope will barely get you down. Jeff called it "Leapin' Lizards".


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Best in Show (5.12d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: While I feel that no move on this climb is harder than the crux of Black Ball Retriever, the upper headwall is very sustained, and every move feels harder and harder as the pump sets in. Awesome power endurance route!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Total Eclipse (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: BETA ALERT:

Hi, Grand Junction Mike. When you are matched on "hold two", try throwing your left heel up on "hold three", going to the crimp with your right hand and then crank off that heel hook to reach a good hold with your left hand and easier climbing above. It's been a while since I've done the route, but I do specifically remember that heel hook beta, because I remember thinking how crazy it was that I was heel hooking on a hold that's higher than my hands. This is a great route@SEMICO... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Limp Lizard (5.12b/c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Apparently there's a left kneebar in the middle of the crux that drops the difficulty by about a letter grade. Bring the pad, and this climb is 12-.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Penitente Canyon in on BLM land and thus is affected by the shutdown. You can climb in the canyon during the day, but all camping is closed: www.doi.gov/index.cfm


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : False Start (5.11d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: This route now has all new bolts thanks to some friendly locals!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Kinesthesia (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: This is a worthwhile route to do while in the area, but as Slim mentioned, the first bolt is in really bad shape. Luckily I didn't fall on it, but as I was lowering, I noticed that the nut was halfway off the bolt. I tried to finger tighten it, but rust on the threads kept me from getting it tight. It was then that I noticed that the bolt is rusted all the way into the rock! Seeing as this bolt protects the crux and is the only thing between a falling person and the ground, it should get rep... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Bedrock : Some Smells Fishy (5.10c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: The anchors to this route are placed above the roof on the slab a few feet back from the lip. You finish on the slab to the left and reach right to clip the anchor. If you're setting up a toprope, be sure to extend your slings over the lip to prevent rope drag and wear.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Nude Buttress : The Unspoken Truth (5.12c/d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Wow, the crux undercling move on this climb is super hard, and it doesn't really let up until you clip the last bolt. Fun climb!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : Cookie Puss (5.12c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I've been on this route a few times over the summer, and I have to say don't let the rock quality keep you off this route. I haven't found any bad rock along the climbing route; the rock is actually quite good compared to a lot of Pass routes and on par with other routes on Olympic Wall. My only qualm on this route is that the bolt that protects the end of the crux is in a horrible location; a quickdraw hanging from this bolt completely covers the crimp that you're throwing... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Headless Franken Chicken (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Jay has gone back and bolted the section of this route that required plugging gear. No additional gear is required now. I'll update the description.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Pass Walls : Photo
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Is this from the old guidebook (pre-Perkins guide)? It's interesting to see some of the differences/inconsistencies between the guides: Unknown 12a = Spring Time Face (5.10d)? Pistol Grip = Crystal Grip?


Location: CO : Independence Pass
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Why? It's not entirely inaccurate!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Mecca Wall and Killer Pilla... : Killer Pillar aka Right Tur... (5.9+)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: I think this route is called "Right Turn Clyde" FA by Jay Brown, Jamie Miller, and MJ Golau.

I've also moved this route into this area instead of placing it in Lower Grotto Wall.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : False Start (5.11d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: The crux bolt (2nd bolt) was really loose when I got on this route over the weekend. I finger tightened it, and it seems ok, but just be aware and check the bolt before you move into the crux.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Limp Lizard (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: All this new routing at Main Elk is great! Thanks for all the work. Was just up there today and noticed the new routes mentioned here and some I'm trying to get info on. Can someone complete this route list?

L to R:
Patchouli (5.11c)
Corn Fritter (5.10a/b)
Giblet Gravy (5.10b)
Fresh Fried Chicken (5.10d)
Fried Lizard Gizzard (5.11a)
Velociraptor (5.11a)
T-Rex (Grade?)
Open Project? (5.13+?)
Limp Lizard (5.12b/c)
Split Lizard (5.10d)
New Bolted Route (Grade?)
New Bolted Route (Grade?)


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Pea Brain (5.12c R)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Hey John- thanks for the history lesson! Seems like the groundfall potential throughout this climb caused it to fall into obscurity as there has been no chalk on it at all in a long time.... Kudos to you and Lynn for getting up it! I have not been on this climb at all, but if it's a worthy line, would you object to having it bolted in a safe way so that it gets some attention? Those original SMC bolts are still in place. There has been a resurgence of climbing on the harder lines at Grotto ... more >>


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