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Hogwarts: Imperio Direct (5.13a)


Member Since: May 2, 2010
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Alvaro Arnal

Alvaro Arnal
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Point Rank: # 424
Total Points: 1,522
Last Year: 223
Last 30 Days: 1
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alvaro Arnal been climbing?










Contributions


All 552 | Routes 89 | Areas 22 | Photos 48 | Page Improvements | Comments 57 | Posts 140 | Stars 165 | Ratings 31
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Jungle Wall : Monkey Spunk (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Secret beta alert: at the 4th bolt, step right across the ledge to a no-hands stance and find the good right hand sidepull around the corner to move up and into the alcove below the roof.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Ridge
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Wish I could remember what we climbed and where the climbs were located along that band! We didn't bother to add any bolts or anchors; we decided not to put in the effort since it's such a steep and long approach just to get up there (I know, lazy lazy!)


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Ridge
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: It's cool that people are starting to venture up there! 3 or 4 years ago a friend and I went up and cleaned/climbed a few lines on the left side of your photo; above that smooth band of rock, including a nice hand crack in a corner. We decided that it would take someone with way more motivation than us to keep humping up there to establish lines, so we let it be. Nice job, Amos!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Squawk Rock
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: If I remember correctly, the trail is across the street from the upper end of the parking pull-out. The trail itself is hard to find; the cairn is at the top of the berm off the road.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Under Pressure (5.10c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Jay Brown, for replacing the last bolt of this climb with a new one. The old (original) bolt was pretty manky!


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: Daniel - there's probably still a lot of snow up there. Lime Creek is more of a July destination, especially given the late-season snow we've had lately.

Kudos to you if you do get up there to check it out though, and let us know what you find!


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : Narrows Proper
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Dana! All the new routes in the Narrows (and across the Western Slope) will be included in the new guidebook that's "hopefully" coming out this fall.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Turkey Rock Area : Right Wing (5.6)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: I always prefer to walk off of Turkey Rock. Once you summit, it's easy to find the way down by walking back (north) and then left (west) from the top.

Alternately, it's also an easy 2x rappel by walking west to the anchors of Smoked Turkey. 2 raps on a doubled 60-m rope will get you down.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Girly Man (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Yes, you can also place gear at the top instead of running it out. The climbing once you exit the dihedral drops to 5.8-5.9. It's up to you really.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Fantastic route and very hard for the grade! I broke it down as a V6/7 boulder problem straight into pumpy, 5.11+ climbing with no rest until you reach the huge undercling after clipping the 3rd bolt. Get enough back here for 4 more moves of V3ish climbing to reach the huge jug horn and easier climbing to the anchor.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Outrageous Overhang : Thug Route (5.11c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Jeez! Where did the block come off from? Were you on the scramby start before getting to the first bolt or on the actual climbing?


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: Yes the first 2 bolts were moved a bit higher by Nathan Martinez to make the falls safer. Shouldn't come close to hitting the ground now at any point on the climb. Thanks Nathan!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Big Wild Boulder : Pete-15 (5.13a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: Really fun climb. Packs in a lot of climbing despite its short length. The crux hold is really hard for me to move through!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Hurricane Wall : 1000 Hurricane (5.12b/c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Just got on this today, and I have to agree with Phil: super hard, bouldery crux through the first 3 bolts that felt V6ish to me. Maybe I was doing it wrong? It's not over after that either; the steep headwall above has big moves and is pumpy!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Tarzan (5.12c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: A 70 or 60 meter rope will reach the slab at the base of the climb from the p1 anchors.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : The Engagement (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: The 0.75 is no longer needed at the start of this route. I believe a low bolt may have been added?


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : Len's World (5.12d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Hard hard crux move involving a double gaston iron cross at full extension! The roofy climbing above the break is also excellent.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Insurrection (5.14c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Damn, Mark, nice job sending this thing!


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Art of Suffering (5.12c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Maybe I was just really tired at the end of a long climbing day, but the start of this route was super powerful, tweaky and hard for me! Still, looking forward to coming back and trying this again when I'm fresh.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Pup Tent of Solitude : Subprime (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Got on this last week, and a bolt has been added to eliminate the run-out to the anchors. Much safer now. 7 bolts.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Peter- if you send me an update of what the order should be, I can re-order them for you. Sorry I'm not very familiar with the ordering of the routes on the lower wall.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Main Elk Crag : Fried Lizard Gizzard (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I agree; the extension to the top of cliff is worth getting on. 5.12a, 8 more bolts to the anchors, a 60-meter rope will barely get you down. Jeff called it "Leapin' Lizards".


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Main Elk Crag : Best in Show (5.12d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: While I feel that no move on this climb is harder than the crux of Black Ball Retriever, the upper headwall is very sustained, and every move feels harder and harder as the pump sets in. Awesome power endurance route!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Pup Tent of Solitude : Total Eclipse (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: BETA ALERT:

Hi, Grand Junction Mike. When you are matched on "hold two", try throwing your left heel up on "hold three", going to the crimp with your right hand and then crank off that heel hook to reach a good hold with your left hand and easier climbing above. It's been a while since I've done the route, but I do specifically remember that heel hook beta, because I remember thinking how crazy it was that I was heel hooking on a hold that's higher than my hands. This is a great route@SEMICO... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Main Elk Crag : Limp Lizard (5.12b/c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Apparently there's a left kneebar in the middle of the crux that drops the difficulty by about a letter grade. Bring the pad, and this climb is 12-.


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