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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Photo
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: All this new routing at Main Elk is great! Thanks for all the work. Was just up there today and noticed the new routes mentioned here and some I'm trying to get info on. Can someone complete this route list?
L to R:
Patchouli (5.11c)
Corn Fritter (5.10a/b)
Giblet Gravy (5.10b)
Fresh Fried Chicken (5.10d)
Fried Lizard Gizzard (5.11a)
Velociraptor (5.11a)
T-Rex (Grade?)
Open Project? (5.13+?)
Limp Lizard (5.12b/c)
Split Lizard (5.10d)
New Bolted Route (Grade?)
New Bolted Route (Grade?)
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Pea Brain (5.12c R)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey John- thanks for the history lesson! Seems like the groundfall potential throughout this climb caused it to fall into obscurity as there has been no chalk on it at all in a long time.... Kudos to you and Lynn for getting up it! I have not been on this climb at all, but if it's a worthy line, would you object to having it bolted in a safe way so that it gets some attention? Those original SMC bolts are still in place. There has been a resurgence of climbing on the harder lines at Grotto ... more >>
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Designer Wall : Home Bruin (5.13-)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jan 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of fall 2012, there are quickdraws hanging from all but the first bolt of this climb. It looks like these have been hanging for a couple of years though as the webbing looks very faded. Consider hanging your own draws if you are going to work this route.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Speed (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is listed at 12a in the guide, but I think it's harder than that. For me, it's certainly harder than Shapeshifter (further down on the cliff) which is a soft 12b.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : First Blood (5.9+)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worst route description ever.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Forever Young (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To clarify the location of this route a bit (since a few "new" routes have gone in between this and Candy Apple Grey)- this route is easily identifiable by a high first bolt just below the sloping ledge and by a 4-finger pocket and then a 2-finger pocket on the face below this ledge. For me, the crux was the mantle.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Forbidden Fruits (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, the last quickdraw hangs over a pocket for the crux move. However there's another, better, pocket 3 inches to the left of the pocket that's blocked which is just as easy to reach for in my opinion. I really enjoyed this route, and I think it deserves the 12a rating.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Space Your Face Wall : Dazed and Confused (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 10c pitch on this route is fantastic. I remember a short crux about 2 or 3 bolts up from Printer Boy ledge and then fun climbing with good rests that seems to go on forever! I feel that the second, 11a, pitch should be done to finish on top of Monitor Rock. It's a 1-move wonder slab crux. Once you clip the bolt after the crux wander up and left towards the large dihedral through unprotected terrain. Although scary, the climbing is only 5.6 or 5.7 and if you've made it this far (climbed ... more >>
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Nude Buttress : The Naked Truth (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route! Despite its short length, it's full-on from the first bolt until you grab the jug above the last bolt.
I also feel this route is very hard for 12b. I hesitate to call it 12c, because I don't have a lot of experience at that grade yet, but it certainly feels a lot harder than any of the other Indy Pass 12b's I've done.
Either way - this is an awesome route that's worth the 5 minute walk from Grotto Wall to do!
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Thindependence : Satanic Mechanic (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added chains to the anchor for this route. Previously it was just 2 biners on the anchor bolts, which twisted the crap of ropes when lowering. Anchor biners are in good shape and are now hanging from the ends of the chains so lowering is a lot smoother! Please don't top rope this route directly through these anchor biners.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Grove : The Lady (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool fingery boulder problem right off the ground followed by un-engaging climbing to the top. The route is worth doing though for the start alone. It would be a 3-star boulder problem on its own. 2 stars for the entire route though.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Graspin' for Straw (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is listed in the Rifle guide as "Graspin' for Straw", 11a.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Designer Wall : Boomerang (5.10a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Josh. I updated the page.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : The Ice Caves
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool video of this unique area:
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Before There Were Nine (5.13c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike- I've updated the route description to make this route easy to find. I'll also add the other routes that climb this lower shield of rock.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Designer Wall : Yogi's Space Race (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love the juxtaposition of styles on this climb: techy, balancy slab climbing leads to the powerful, dynamic boulder problem crux over the roof! I use a red C3 to protect the run-out between the first and second bolts.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Calico (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only 3 bolts on this one. Really fun route! Wish it was 3 times as long....
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Greg's Cliff : Bolts and a Pin (5.10b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The piton that protects the crux moves over the roof is no longer there. A fall at the crux would result in a groundfall.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Game Wall : Truth (5.11b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a bee nest under an old stump right by the base of this route. I know this because I threw the rope back right on the stump and a swarm of bees started flying out from under it. We didn't get stung, but be aware of this.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Pass Walls : Ready for ReedR (5.10b PG13)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm wondering if I was a bit off route and too far right on the top headwall of this route. Once I turned the low corner, I found myself in a shallow, left-facing dihedral that I climbed to a large band of pebbly, crumbly rock. I was run out about 15 feet from the corner at this point, and there was only a small, vertical crack that took a #0 C3 but that I couldn't put a lot of trust in because of the rock quality. Do sketchy moves past this cam, and then run out to the top from there. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Pineapple Thunderpussy (5.11b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is in the Rifle guide as "Magic Carpet Ride" 11b. Fun route on the upper half.
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