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Member Since: May 2, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Alvaro Arnal


Point Rank: # 457
Total Points: 1,299
Last Year: 166
Last 30 Days: 22
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alvaro Arnal been climbing?










Contributions


All 465 | Routes 77 | Areas 19 | Photos 39 | Page Improvments | Comments 44 | Posts 120 | Stars 140 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Bedrock : Some Smells Fishy (5.10c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: The anchors to this route are placed above the roof on the slab a few feet back from the lip. You finish on the slab to the left and reach right to clip the anchor. If you're setting up a toprope, be sure to extend your slings over the lip to prevent rope drag and wear.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Nude Buttress : The Unspoken Truth (5.12c/d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Wow, the crux undercling move on this climb is super hard, and it doesn't really let up until you clip the last bolt. Fun climb!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : Cookie Puss (5.12c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I've been on this route a few times over the summer, and I have to say don't let the rock quality keep you off this route. I haven't found any bad rock along the climbing route; the rock is actually quite good compared to a lot of Pass routes and on par with other routes on Olympic Wall. My only qualm on this route is that the bolt that protects the end of the crux is in a horrible location; a quickdraw hanging from this bolt completely covers the crimp that you're throwing... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Headless Franken Chicken (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Jay has gone back and bolted the section of this route that required plugging gear. No additional gear is required now. I'll update the description.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Pass Walls : Photo
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Is this from the old guidebook (pre-Perkins guide)? It's interesting to see some of the differences/inconsistencies between the guides: Unknown 12a = Spring Time Face (5.10d)? Pistol Grip = Crystal Grip?


Location: CO : Independence Pass
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Why? It's not entirely inaccurate!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Mecca Wall and Killer Pilla... : Killer Pillar aka Right Tur... (5.9+)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: I think this route is called "Right Turn Clyde" FA by Jay Brown, Jamie Miller, and MJ Golau.

I've also moved this route into this area instead of placing it in Lower Grotto Wall.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : False Start (5.11d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: The crux bolt (2nd bolt) was really loose when I got on this route over the weekend. I finger tightened it, and it seems ok, but just be aware and check the bolt before you move into the crux.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Limp Lizard (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: All this new routing at Main Elk is great! Thanks for all the work. Was just up there today and noticed the new routes mentioned here and some I'm trying to get info on. Can someone complete this route list?

L to R:
Patchouli (5.11c)
Corn Fritter (5.10a/b)
Giblet Gravy (5.10b)
Fresh Fried Chicken (5.10d)
Fried Lizard Gizzard (5.11a)
Velociraptor (5.11a)
T-Rex (Grade?)
Open Project? (5.13+?)
Limp Lizard (5.12b/c)
Split Lizard (5.10d)
New Bolted Route (Grade?)
New Bolted Route (Grade?)


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Pea Brain (5.12c R)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Hey John- thanks for the history lesson! Seems like the groundfall potential throughout this climb caused it to fall into obscurity as there has been no chalk on it at all in a long time.... Kudos to you and Lynn for getting up it! I have not been on this climb at all, but if it's a worthy line, would you object to having it bolted in a safe way so that it gets some attention? Those original SMC bolts are still in place. There has been a resurgence of climbing on the harder lines at Grotto ... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Designer Wall : Home Bruin (5.13-)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: As of fall 2012, there are quickdraws hanging from all but the first bolt of this climb. It looks like these have been hanging for a couple of years though as the webbing looks very faded. Consider hanging your own draws if you are going to work this route.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Speed (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: This route is listed at 12a in the guide, but I think it's harder than that. For me, it's certainly harder than Shapeshifter (further down on the cliff) which is a soft 12b.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : First Blood (5.9+)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Worst route description ever.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Forever Young (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: To clarify the location of this route a bit (since a few "new" routes have gone in between this and Candy Apple Grey)- this route is easily identifiable by a high first bolt just below the sloping ledge and by a 4-finger pocket and then a 2-finger pocket on the face below this ledge. For me, the crux was the mantle.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Forbidden Fruits (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Yes, the last quickdraw hangs over a pocket for the crux move. However there's another, better, pocket 3 inches to the left of the pocket that's blocked which is just as easy to reach for in my opinion. I really enjoyed this route, and I think it deserves the 12a rating.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Space Your Face Wall : Dazed and Confused (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: The 10c pitch on this route is fantastic. I remember a short crux about 2 or 3 bolts up from Printer Boy ledge and then fun climbing with good rests that seems to go on forever! I feel that the second, 11a, pitch should be done to finish on top of Monitor Rock. It's a 1-move wonder slab crux. Once you clip the bolt after the crux wander up and left towards the large dihedral through unprotected terrain. Although scary, the climbing is only 5.6 or 5.7 and if you've made it this far (climbed ... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Nude Buttress : The Naked Truth (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: This is a great route! Despite its short length, it's full-on from the first bolt until you grab the jug above the last bolt.

I also feel this route is very hard for 12b. I hesitate to call it 12c, because I don't have a lot of experience at that grade yet, but it certainly feels a lot harder than any of the other Indy Pass 12b's I've done.

Either way - this is an awesome route that's worth the 5 minute walk from Grotto Wall to do!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Thindependence : Satanic Mechanic (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: I added chains to the anchor for this route. Previously it was just 2 biners on the anchor bolts, which twisted the crap of ropes when lowering. Anchor biners are in good shape and are now hanging from the ends of the chains so lowering is a lot smoother! Please don't top rope this route directly through these anchor biners.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Grove : The Lady (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: Cool fingery boulder problem right off the ground followed by un-engaging climbing to the top. The route is worth doing though for the start alone. It would be a 3-star boulder problem on its own. 2 stars for the entire route though.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Graspin' for Straw (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: This route is listed in the Rifle guide as "Graspin' for Straw", 11a.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Designer Wall : Boomerang (5.10a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Josh. I updated the page.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : The Ice Caves
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 15, 2012

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Comments: Cool video of this unique area:




Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Before There Were Nine (5.13c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: Mike- I've updated the route description to make this route easy to find. I'll also add the other routes that climb this lower shield of rock.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Designer Wall : Yogi's Space Race (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Love the juxtaposition of styles on this climb: techy, balancy slab climbing leads to the powerful, dynamic boulder problem crux over the roof! I use a red C3 to protect the run-out between the first and second bolts.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Calico (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: Only 3 bolts on this one. Really fun route! Wish it was 3 times as long....


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