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Levitating


Member Since: Jul 9, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,032
Total Points: 608
Last Year: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 224 | Routes | Areas | Photos 120 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 78 | Stars 16 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Ying-Yang (5.10d)
By: alpinista83 When: Dec 1, 2011

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Comments: P2: pro to 5''. And then you're running it all the way out until the last move. It's not hard (I mean, the chimney; the OW is another story), but your belayer can stop belaying after awhile. There's no place to protect the chimney. If you want that last move protected, bring up a .3 BD/green alien sized cam to protect the undercling. If Ahab is 10b, then I suppose this is rightfully 10a. Like wide climbing? Then the second pitch has your name all over it.

I thought the anchor w... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : The Crucifix (5.12b)
By: alpinista83 When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: If wide climbing is not your strong suit, bring fatter pro. And lots more of it.

Rack for a 5.10 climber: offset brassies, DMM offsets to grey, Black Alien, Blue Alien, full set of C3s, 2 each .4 to 1, 1 #2, 3-4 #3s, 1 #4, 1 #5, no 6.
Rack for a 5.12 climber: what everyone says above.

A write up of our adventure here. Rad line. Great summer climb. Stays shady all afterno... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Crack-a-Go-Go (5.11c PG13)
By: alpinista83 When: May 20, 2011

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Comments: Absolutely. Without tiny springy pro, it would have definitely been a No-Go. But most people hike up with micro cams now, so let's do away with the spook moniker.

It's G-rated with modern gear and yes, appropriately, 11b unless you're putting it up with lilliputian passive pro and perhaps some 2 - 3'' nuts.




Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Crack-a-Go-Go (5.11c PG13)
By: alpinista83 When: May 18, 2011

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Comments: Crack a no-pro? Crack a no-go? Not really. It's a tough climb and the gear is a bit tricky, but it's 11c.. so yeah.

If you're not a purist, you can tree stem pretty high to protect the start with a BD .5 or even a high .4 and come back down. I did not come back down.

Small offset nuts, blue alien, triple and double zero C3s to protect the crux. A green alien can fit in the suspect flake on the right. If you place as much gear as I did without slings, rope drag can be a problem. Didn't... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unknown 5.11- (really long ... (5.11-)
By: alpinista83 When: Dec 22, 2010

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Comments: There is still a good deal of loose rock on the ledges. Be mindful of your partner below and when you pull the ropes. We carried down a snow globe sized piece with us that was waiting to launch near the top. The finishing stance is good; I'd recommend belaying from the anchor.

No definitive crux. If you're comfortable walking gear, you can safely get away with 200 feet of quality climbing without taking multiple racks of reds and golds. 5 #1s, 4 #2s (with the other Bl... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Alley Cat (5.12-)
By: alpinista83 When: Oct 25, 2010

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Comments: I was hoping it was sandier than the Arabian desert due to the recent rainstorm. Sad. This would otherwise be an incredible route.

Metal intensive: 1 yellow alien, 1 red alien, 2 BD .5s, 3 .75s, 6 #1s, 3 #2s, 2 #3s and 1 #4 for the top.

Sandiness notwithstanding, no move is harder than non-IC 10d, but this route is an endurofest. You're in spectacular shape if you can onsight. Tie a knot at the end. Without downclimbing you can ever-so-carefully get lowered down on... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5)
By: alpinista83 When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: My partner and I gumbied up with a successful summit, car-to-car in 17 hours about two weeks ago. The 17 hours included getting lost, taking breaks, searching for a hat of sentimental value and talking to campers hanging out on the upper saddle. If you're confident that you know where you're going, you can do the whole thing in 12 hours.

No need to bring your climbing shoes if you're only doing the Upper. We were comfortable doing it all in hiking boots. If you want to go uber light for t... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Donini's Crack (5.10c)
By: alpinista83 When: Aug 28, 2010

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Comments: One of the toughest 10cs I've ever tried to free. Ran out of juice and took a huge whip off the roof. Protect before trying to jam up (green .75s- I put in two of 'em- they won't obstruct the necessary jamming).

Rumor is true. Straight from the horse's mouth. Ran into Jim climbing in City of Rocks.

Great climb. Do it! And clip that .75 with a short draw.