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P3 on Nutcracker.


Member Since: Mar 10, 2011
Last Visit: 42 mins ago
Contact Josh Allred


Point Rank: # 2,983
Total Points: 170
Last Year: 78
Last 30 Days: 55
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Allred been climbing?










Contributions


All 332 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 29 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 172 | Stars 74 | Ratings 41

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9) : Photo
By: Josh Allred When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: This is exactly where I placed pro except I threw a nut in for good measure below the pin and threw a nut in where you are climbing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: Josh Allred When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: The climbing is safer and more straight forward to go up the crack rather than traverse in. You can get a small nut (dmm silver peenut) in below the pin, equalize with it if you want (rope drag didnt feel like an issue), then down climb a move to start the crack. There is a great open hand jam to work your feet up high where you can place a bomber gold dmm offset nut up high to the right of pin scars. Put on your man pants make a couple moves until you can place another nut (green bd nut) behi... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Terror (5.7)
By: Josh Allred When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: I was down in Ouray, CO this weekend and ran into the one and only Ralph Tingey. I asked him about the gear he had for the FA. He told me he had about 3 pitons and "climbing" boots. I also asked him if he minded the bolts on the route. First, he said that he has never placed a bolt in his life. Second, he said he loved the bolts on the route. "About 15 years ago, I went up with my daughter and loved clipping into them." Finally, he told me don't believe anyone that tells you about how I ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Polemonium Peak : V-Notch Couloir (5.5 WI2-3)
By: Josh Allred When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Anyone try this in November? I am thinking of giving it a go when I am in CA Nov 25-29.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : East Dihedrals (5.6)
By: Josh Allred When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Did this with a 60 meter in 2 pitches. Belay at big ledge and then to chains up top. I went over the bulge (the most obvious line to take) on the first pitch. Pretty stout for 5.6. It was a one move kind of deal with good pro. In my opinion, it was the crux of the climb.

There was a TON of chalk to the right that practically goes through the same bulge as Jigs/Steort. That looked way easier. Not sure people can call it 5.6 and skip the crux of the climb. Beside they missed the best mov... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Monster (5.9)
By: Josh Allred When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Tried this on lead for the first time today. Ran it out and took a 30 ft whipper. IMO one of the best routes in RC.

Not as hard as Bushwhack Crack or Satan's Corner in LCC. Did not feel like there were any 5.9 moves on it but was very sustained 5.8.

5.8+ anyone?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Josh Allred When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Standard rack with doubles in #2. You could prob bring a #4 for the arete. Honestly, there isn't much pro from the bolt until you get to a long foot ledge (maybe 20 ft from the top?). Managed to get a #2 in there. It felt fantastic to run it out with good exposure. Great feet and hands all the way up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Jam Crack Route (5.6)
By: Josh Allred When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: 2.5 stars for the first pitch, solitude and awesome scenery.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Josh Allred When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: 3 stars when you combine the first 3 pitches with School Room Direct. Highly recommended. Easily done with a 60 meter.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+)
By: Josh Allred When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorites. Climb Brain Full of Spiders on the way up and take a short walk to Triology to make it one of the finest climbs in RC.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow)
By: Josh Allred When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: A really amazing route. One of my favorite I have ever done. We did the Couloir B Variation (as seen on summitpost).

Pitch 1: Climb Couloir. Gets steep the last 15 ft.
Pitch 2: Short pitch 30 ft or so. Dug a ledge and roped up for a short mixed pitch. Dont top out the couloir. Instead rope up jet to the left about 25+ ft from the top I ended up having to dig through a cornice.
Pitch 3: 5.easy full rope length
Pitch 4: 5.easy some of the best climbing in the whole climb. Full rope lengt... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9)
By: Josh Allred When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: 3 stars when linked with Trilogy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Josh Allred When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Dropped a locker w/ ATC on route yesterday. Im positive I had it starting the pitch. I think it got caught on my shirt. Always fun to get on top of a pitch without a belay device. If anyone finds it I would sure appreciate it.

This is one of the best climbs in BCC. Crux is off the deck on the second pitch.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Josh Allred When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Absolute classic for its history. Unique climbing.

Happy 100 years Otto!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Josh Allred When: Sep 21, 2011

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Comments: Is it possible to do this roped up and belay someone across?