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Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...


Member Since: Jul 6, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 563
Total Points: 1,111
Last Year: 80
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 797 | Routes 77 | Areas 14 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 46 | Posts 544 | Stars 87 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Oregon Volcanoes : Mt. Jefferson : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: The saddle is known as "Red Saddle."


Location: OR : Oregon Volcanoes : Mt. Jefferson : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: This photo was taken from the south side of the summit pinnacle from what is known as "Red Saddle." One typically traverses under the pinnacle to the left (out of sight) to gain the 4th class route to the top.


Location: OR : Oregon Volcanoes : Mt. Jefferson : Jefferson Park Glacier (5.0 Mod. Snow)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: An alternative to climbing the north shoulder from the top of the Jeff Park Glacier is to gain the North Ridge from the Jeff Park Glacier (before one climbs the "headwall"). This avoids the lose hair ball rock on the north shoulder. However, this alternative is only good when it is snow covered otherwise it is scree.

The summit pinnacle when fully covered in rime is very reasonable climbing. Pro is another thing, pickets work best.

For descending one can drop down, traverse the Milk Creek Glac... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Compare this photo to this one taken from the exact same spot 150 years later:

mountainproject.com/v/10900095...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Compare this photo to this one:

mountainproject.com/v/10767908...


Location: OR : Mt Hood : Mt. Hood : Ravine (WI3 M4 Mod. Snow)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: This line or approximately the same line was original done in 1958 (May 18, 1958) by Dave Bohn, Art Maki, and Al Combs. There is reference to this line in Oregon High by Jeff Thomas as a variation to Eliot Glacier (Route 7a) and is described as "Stay close to the North Face Cleaver. Gain the col behind Cathedral Spire and follow the last 500 feet of the North Face."

The line described above does the same in that it gains the col behind Cathedral Spire. One can debate the conditions in which the... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Speed is of the Essence (5.7) : Photo (Copy)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: The lower part of #9 Jail Bait is not drawn correctly. The lower section is drawn such that one would climb the right facing corner up to the roof. One actually climbs the shallow corner to the left by 8'-10', and then up to the roof. Though the Ruckman guide appears that one would step in to the corner we found it unnecessary.

There are also two new routes between Minimum Security and Jailbait.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Unknown Right Arete (5.8)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: This part description is odd to me "Start up the right facing corner below the roof. Climb over the roof on the right side." It sounds like one climbs the right facing corner that is below the roof which becomes part of Jail Bait then escapes right at the roof to the arÍte. Which is reasonable if one wants to avoid the face above the roof.

However, to gain the arÍte we started at the base of "Jail Bait" went up may be 10 feet to the right to the first small roof that is below the dirty right f... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Sales Pitch (5.10c PG13)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: "homemade-looking hangers"

HAHAHA, son them hangers are Leeper Hangers, been around since the 70s. Ole Ed did a recall on them a few years back. Now if you want to homemade hangers you should see the one I got from Bridwell. Double wrapped galvanized pipe tape.

BTW there is now a second bolt at the anchor. Both bolts could use some chain. About a 14" piece on the original bolt and a 8 piece on the new bolt.


Location: OR : Mt Hood : Mt. Hood : The North Face (WI3+ Mod. Snow R)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: Not sure why folks have given this route an R rating. By PNW standards the ability to protect oneself is quite adequate. As for the previous comment about moving left around the rock buttress near the top. While one can continue left an top out in the same general proximity of Cooper's Spur, it is preferable to cut back right and continue straight up as it brings one directly to the summit. Though being directly under the summit cornice can be intimidating from some.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Kermit's Direct Start (5.10c R)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Aug 20, 2010

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Comments: Just a heads up that the flake/block to the right of the initial cam placement is loose. I was going to yard it out but we had crap below.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : Santaquin Canyon Ice : The Candlestick (WI5-6)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Mar 3, 2010

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Comments: Yup pretty typical, BITD there used to be a branch stuck down that you could throw a sling over to protect the last 15'. Always made for an exciting exit.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : Santaquin Canyon Ice : Angel of Fear (WI5-6)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Mar 3, 2010

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Comments: I added a photo that has a similar perspective as one of the 1985 photos. The 2010 formation is still much leaner than in 1985.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Oct 3, 2009

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Comments: Note: the two Lost Arrows on the second pitch are lose and should not be trusted. The pins should be replaced with thicker Lost Arrows which will maintain the historic aspects of the climb. (I.e. do not replace the pins with bolts!!!!!!!!).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Up A Cliff Without a Ladder (5.11a)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 30, 2009

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Comments: NOTE: as of September 2009 the pin midway up is gone. There is a good TCU placement near by that affords protection. As such, take 2-4 TCUs for protecting this area as well as the upper area that also requires a TCU.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Ford - Stettner Couloir (Sk... (WI2-3 Mod. Snow) : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: Aug 25, 2009

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Comments: This is Glencoe Col.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: On the west side of Cecret Lake the trail heads up towards the Sugarloaf Lift. Rather than hiking up the scree from the bottom take this trail up to Cecret Pass and then traverse over to the wall. Not only is it easier but much less prone to erosion. A few more routes were added in the summer of 2008 plus we discovered a long forgotten route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jun 25, 2009

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Comments: It should be noted that the Black Peeler Buttress and environs is on land owned by Perpetual Storage. The same respected for the property should be given by climbers as the adjacent private land (ie. the Gate Buttress and the LDS Church).


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Mt. McKinley : Cassin Ridge (5.8 WI4) : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jan 5, 2009

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Comments: The ramp opened up in 1999 and when we went through it in 2000 only the top 10' posed any real problem. Which was not much of a problem.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Perhaps Not (5.11c)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: The R rating came from the climb being done sans bolts on the FA. I can not remember when the bolts were added but IRCC Stuart added them.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Goldenfingers Wall : OtherWorld (5.4)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 5, 2008

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Comments: Careful where you climb, I hear this fucker will go for your nuts when you are not looking.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jun 11, 2008

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Comments: A few comments from the peanut gallery: I disagree that what is being done has anything to do with culture or history. Some of the analogies presented are beyond ridiculous. It is simply a practice so that potentially lost folks can figure out what climb they are standing in front of. Or very simply put, these are just freaking road signs. Nothing more.

What has been done is nothing new as it has been done in various ways at climbing areas in the USA. I have seen the name painted at the base of... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : cTr (5.10b)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jun 10, 2008

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Comments: I think I am going to call this Chose To Remove. Haha. I was up there over the weekend and saw another luker come off. This time though it instead of making a hold, one was removed. I saw the potential for a couple more.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Mt. McKinley : Cassin Ridge (5.8 WI4)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 25, 2007

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Comments: The description in Joe Puryear's book is problably one of the best and one that I highly reccomend to folks. I wrote a narrative of our trip in 2000 that seems to popular:

terragalleria.com/mountain/inf...

Probably the most interesting part is that of the vast majority of folks who come to Denali planning on doing the Cassin Ridge never get on it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Flashdance (5.11c R)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 21, 2007

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Comments: More history - this actually the original finish to Pentapitch. So the FA using aid should be Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963, with the FFA George Lowe & Paul Andersen, 1966. The pins were probably placed by Reese. (Source Rick Reese).


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