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Member Since: Jun 1, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has aliebling been climbing?










Contributions


All 237 | Routes 4 | Areas 2 | Photos 5 | Page Improvments | Comments 12 | Posts 47 | Stars 164 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11)
By: aliebling When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: Fixed lines are in good shape right now with zero knots to pass all the way from Mammoth to the ground. Note: sometimes there are multiple ropes to choose from, but you can see the good one from the rap station each time.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : North Arete : North ArÍte (5.6)
By: aliebling When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: Timmaly's photo is perfect beta. Notice especially the two dark knobs on the left wall above the ramp. The below photo shows a party at the top of the ramp as seen from below.

Party at the base of the north arete as seen from the approach
Party at the base of the north arete as seen from the approach



Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Boi-oi-oi-ing! (5.10a)
By: aliebling When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: For those without a guidebook, this climb (and the orange pillar it is on) are quite far right from where the approach path hits the first wall. It is directly above the middle of the lake below the crag. You will know the climb when you see it (both from the pitch descriptions and the two sets of anchors visible).

Also, the anchor atop P1 has no rap rings, only bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: aliebling When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: Absolutely agree that Cookie Monster is the preferable alternate start to the normal first two pitches.

A great intro to red rocks, though one must arrive early. It will be crowded.

Also, take a single 70m. it will work by itself to rap but even more likely you'll be able to team up with someone else to share ropes and rap down faster anyway. Also, you can do Cookie Monster in two pitches this way, too.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Bull Dozier (5.7)
By: aliebling When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: The water level and flow is quite likely up further than when we did it.

Also to clarify, we didn't walk down the steep/scary portions (especially the slab waterfall right before one cuts right to return to the base of the climbs). One should obviously use common sense (and avoid the really steep parts). We considered most of the water perfectly safe to walkoff through but YMMV.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Western Front
By: aliebling When: Jul 24, 2011

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Comments: The climbs are perfect for introducing/reinforcing friction climbing techniques on sticky granite.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Bull Dozier (5.7)
By: aliebling When: Jul 24, 2011

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Comments: First two pitches are fantastic for a 5.7 leader. Just lovely and very secure climbing.

In early season, go all the way left to the waterfall for the walkoff and you can take off your shoes and walk down the waterfall almost all the way. Best walk off ever!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: aliebling When: May 28, 2011

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Comments: 3rd pitch is wet, making the 5.7 already polished liebacking quite exciting. Be careful!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Breakfast of Champions (5.8+)
By: aliebling When: Apr 16, 2011

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Comments: As a shorter (and relatively new) leader with smaller hands, I found the fist section just off the ground very challenging. Both the jams and the feet were extremely awkward leaving it difficult for me to get protection in. I ended up falling to the ground (happily "only" 6 feet or so) trying to get pro in to it. If I was a more confident leader or this section was further off the ground, I would have just climbed through it and placed gear in the easy hand crack above. If my hands were a bi... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Overhang Bypass (5.7)
By: aliebling When: Apr 16, 2011

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Comments: The P1 cave/trough exit is definitely not obvious and was difficult for me as a shorter climber. I opted for the right side face climbing with my last piece of gear down inside the cave. Terrible idea. I ended up on runout 5.7/8 face sure I was going to take a huge swinging fall in to the cave and scared to death.

Compared to that, the traverse on P2 was good easy fun for a modern gym climber with decent strength.

Definitely recommend the exit left if you're unsure at the grade. Also, ge... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: aliebling When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: "Use gear sparingly on the lower, easier sections to assure you have pro for the upper portion of the climb."

What Scott said. When done as one pitch (which is fantastic) and leading near your limit, be sure to keep some gear for the end or you will be facing some exciting climbing above protection...ask me how I know :)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Tamalpais
By: aliebling When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: Parking is now $8. The description should be updated to reflect this. Still fun climbing with a fantastic view.