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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: aliebling When: Nov 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely agree that Cookie Monster is the preferable alternate start to the normal first two pitches.
A great intro to red rocks, though one must arrive early. It will be crowded.
Also, take a single 70m. it will work by itself to rap but even more likely you'll be able to team up with someone else to share ropes and rap down faster anyway. Also, you can do Cookie Monster in two pitches this way, too.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Bull Dozier (5.7)
By: aliebling When: Jul 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The water level and flow is quite likely up further than when we did it.
Also to clarify, we didn't walk down the steep/scary portions (especially the slab waterfall right before one cuts right to return to the base of the climbs). One should obviously use common sense (and avoid the really steep parts). We considered most of the water perfectly safe to walkoff through but YMMV.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome, Western Front
By: aliebling When: Jul 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbs are perfect for introducing/reinforcing friction climbing techniques on sticky granite.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Bull Dozier (5.7)
By: aliebling When: Jul 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: First two pitches are fantastic for a 5.7 leader. Just lovely and very secure climbing.
In early season, go all the way left to the waterfall for the walkoff and you can take off your shoes and walk down the waterfall almost all the way. Best walk off ever!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: aliebling When: May 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3rd pitch is wet, making the 5.7 already polished liebacking quite exciting. Be careful!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Breakfast of Champions (5.8+)
By: aliebling When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As a shorter (and relatively new) leader with smaller hands, I found the fist section just off the ground very challenging. Both the jams and the feet were extremely awkward leaving it difficult for me to get protection in. I ended up falling to the ground (happily "only" 6 feet or so) trying to get pro in to it. If I was a more confident leader or this section was further off the ground, I would have just climbed through it and placed gear in the easy hand crack above. If my hands were a bi... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Overhang Bypass (5.7)
By: aliebling When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The P1 cave/trough exit is definitely not obvious and was difficult for me as a shorter climber. I opted for the right side face climbing with my last piece of gear down inside the cave. Terrible idea. I ended up on runout 5.7/8 face sure I was going to take a huge swinging fall in to the cave and scared to death.
Compared to that, the traverse on P2 was good easy fun for a modern gym climber with decent strength.
Definitely recommend the exit left if you're unsure at the grade. Also, ge... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: aliebling When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Use gear sparingly on the lower, easier sections to assure you have pro for the upper portion of the climb."
What Scott said. When done as one pitch (which is fantastic) and leading near your limit, be sure to keep some gear for the end or you will be facing some exciting climbing above protection...ask me how I know :)
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Tamalpais
By: aliebling When: Jun 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Parking is now $8. The description should be updated to reflect this. Still fun climbing with a fantastic view.
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