Comments: Until memory fresh from yesterday: Nice to have 3#4 , 3#5 and 2#6 to avoid pushing camalots. Save #6 for upper part . This time the angry ants was above belay tree. we move out belay below the trunk. The tree is almost dead.
As Bruce Morrice (FA) recall:" I seem to remember after the OW crux that you tunneled through a chimney sideways and grunted to the top where you emerged on the summit next to a little tree that we rapped from. The cave you chimney through is the eponymous garbage 'bin'. Plenty of bat guano. "
We did not climb last part via the "garbage bin" and rappel from small tree ~90 feet from the base
Comments: recently climbed it again. P1 5.8 is stout and do not take any big gear you need to use on p2. Leave it for the follower. One #5 and one #6 would be sufficient to protect crux p2. Nothing changed for "side in" preferences- it is still much easier for me left side in
Comments: Classic route. A lot of nuts placement. Tree distinct cruxes. Ruff rock for the hands and fingers. Take bolt kit to make good anchor at the top. 150 feet, 80 meter rope did not make it. We also use intermediate rappel with old bolts.
Comments: First pitch really stout for the grade. I think at the time of FA, 5.10 did not exist. 15 feet clean 6 inch OW section is really good to practice hand/fist stack if you go right side in. Doing Left side in is much easier, because crack is off-set and you can better bridge heal/toe with outside right foot, but in this case you need to change side in the end of ow.
Comments: I think Josh Harding has a valid point . No matter do you agree with him or not, his post did not provoke such reaction. So Mark Vogel, why you become so offensive if you face un opinion you disagree?
Comments: I made some editing after reading Christina report and add Clint's overlay photos which can explain some route finding problems on the upper part of the route. And there is no more "double hands crack" on p6 - it is gone! Christina am planning to be at november Balch camp fest and hope we will meet there
Comments: I enjoyed the climb breathing hard by the end. Tricky to start without the tree. Bring the 12feet ladder to bypass 12 feet of blank face. Took double rack up to #4 and used them all. Top rope to the left Scattered Youth .11d - interesting climb
Comments: The route length is about 280 ft. If you link first two pitches it is exactly 40m. Pitch 3 is 40 meters too. We rappel from the top of the Hourglass to the ground with two 80m ropes without intermediate rappel (they barely reach). You can do two 60m rope rappel using anchor on the face of Hourglass. It located on the Erick Kohl's route at about the tree level. One good/one bad bolt with no rings. You can set up relatively convenient belay just below the tree using #6,#5 and @PO... more >>