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Member Since: Feb 28, 2006
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Alexey


Point Rank: # 620
Total Points: 1,057
Last Year: 71
Last 30 Days: 2
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alexey been climbing?










Contributions


All 484 | Routes 36 | Areas 7 | Photos 89 | Page Improvements | Comments 147 | Posts 5 | Stars 157 | Ratings 43
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Peter Pan (5.9)
By: Alexey When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: This time we link p1 with part of the p2 and belay at the beginning of the wide splitter ( the place which Reid book call the top of p2.) I had idea to make the second pitch to the top of the pinnacle, but stop 15 feet short at the bottom of the final chimney with block and belaying there since last 15 feet can cause a lot of rope drag.
5.7 chimney hard, but secure and it lower part protected with #9, middle part with #4 BigBro


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Peter Left (5.10b)
By: Alexey When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: This time I link p1 and p2, but next time I would make it in two pitches instead, to make rack smaller.
If you not linking p1 and 2, you can take just 2#4 and one #5.
The crux of the route for me was also reaching the flakes, and than fighting for security in the upper flare which was very tight for me to be fully in, but not as tight to force me into layback it.
We were lazy to bring second rope and climb with 80m. - this works on rappel if you use intermediate bolts ( without r... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Slab Happy Pinnacle : Golden Years (5.12c)
By: Alexey When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: Hi k-man, welcome to Mountainproject!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : The Crucifix (5.12b) : Photo
By: Alexey When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Great Dan's photo, great climbers and great pitch, one of the best in the Valley wide hands [blue camalot] pitch.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Mecca Lite (5.10c)
By: Alexey When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: yes, supertaco sport book is worst ever. Just made by left foot.
the good Mecca map and topos in Reid selected guide , 1998 edition

amazon.com/gp/search?index=boo...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Widow's Tears Area : Windfall (5.11a)
By: Alexey When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: those " decently solid trees" is the time bomb.
Once I came up with bolt kit, but did not have time to drill.
Please consider to replace the slings crap with bolts


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Bridalveil Falls East (5.10c)
By: Alexey When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: FA Mark Powell and Warren Harding 8/1957
In 1964 Frank Sacherer and John Morton climbed the overhanging jamcrack to avoid the short aid section which is the Midget Chimney pitch.

This late 50th early 60th route had good clean and hard chimneys and hard moves around chock stones.
Route finding is easy if you follow the huge chimney system from bottom to top. Only start of first pitch is about 20 feet right from the chimney and than 100 feet up it merge with main chimney. First and last pitches... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Owl : Owl Roof (5.12c) : Photo
By: Alexey When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: what a great photo ! candidate for front page of new Yosemite free climbing book


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Moby Dick, Left (5.9)
By: Alexey When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: stelar route, calories burner


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Kor-Beck (5.9)
By: Alexey When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: my 80m rope was fully stretched on first rappel (p5,6) and last rappel ( p1)
Better to take two ropes. with 70m you have to down-climb twice.
it is easy to link p2,3 and p4,5


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Dr. Fun Time (5.10d)
By: Alexey When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: My friends think that I overrated quality of the route.
A lot of loose rock, danger for belayer if he/she directly below the line, bad pro in the bottom part, and moving flakes on the upper parts. True, but the climbing moves are good!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Steppin' Out (5.10d)
By: Alexey When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Until memory fresh from yesterday:
Nice to have 3#4 , 3#5 and 2#6 to avoid pushing camalots. Save #6 for upper part .
This time the angry ants was above belay tree. we move out belay below the trunk.
The tree is almost dead.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cream : Cream (5.11a)
By: Alexey When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Until memory fresh from yesterday:Left side in all the way from the crux.
Nice to have 3#4 , 3#5 and 2#6 to avoid pushing camalots. Save one #5 for upper part.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : This and That Cliff : This and That (5.10c)
By: Alexey When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: climbed it recently again- felt very hard for 10a (I did not lay back tzo)
#4 camelots works better than #4 Friends


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Tweet This (5.11-)
By: Alexey When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Jeff say; "Tweet This starts about 20 or so feet left of Sawer and Woody, it is the obvious left leaning left facing corner."


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : The Bin (5.10d)
By: Alexey When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: trip report for "The Bin"
supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

As Bruce Morrice (FA) recall:" I seem to remember after the OW crux that you tunneled through a chimney sideways and grunted to the top where you emerged on the summit next to a little tree that we rapped from. The cave you chimney through is the eponymous garbage 'bin'. Plenty of bat guano. "

We did not climb last part via the "garbage bin" and rappel from small tree ~90 feet from the base


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Reed's Pinnacle Left (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: recently climbed it again.
P1 5.8 is stout and do not take any big gear you need to use on p2. Leave it for the follower.
One #5 and one #6 would be sufficient to protect crux p2.
Nothing changed for "side in" preferences- it is still much easier for me left side in


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Olga's Trick (5.10d)
By: Alexey When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: Classic route. A lot of nuts placement. Tree distinct cruxes. Ruff rock for the hands and fingers.
Take bolt kit to make good anchor at the top.
150 feet, 80 meter rope did not make it. We also use intermediate rappel with old bolts.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Arch OW at Bongs Away Left (5.10+)
By: Alexey When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: I'll try to find FA party info about the route.
So far it is unknown for me.
The info I got so far is
Route Name : Old School Arch
Rating :10a


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : The Cleft (5.9)
By: Alexey When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: First pitch really stout for the grade. I think at the time of FA, 5.10 did not exist.
15 feet clean 6 inch OW section is really good to practice hand/fist stack if you go right side in.
Doing Left side in is much easier, because crack is off-set and you can better bridge heal/toe with outside right foot, but in this case you need to change side in the end of ow.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Mist Trail Boulders : ... : The English Have Arrived (V1+)
By: Alexey When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Cool, stelar looking splitter.
Did you finally find Cedar Eater? If yes, can you update directions
I am asking because I was trying to find and did not.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Scarface (Free) (5.12)
By: Alexey When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Good work Luke. Both: climbing and documenting


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Big Baby (5.11)
By: Alexey When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: next time 3#4, 4#5,2#6


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Northeast Buttress (5.9+ PG13)
By: Alexey When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: I think Josh Harding has a valid point . No matter do you agree with him or not, his post did not provoke such reaction. So Mark Vogel, why you become so offensive if you face un opinion you disagree?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.11-)
By: Alexey When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: did not find good nut placement ( #6 instead) and no heel hook.
My gear was in Camalots:
single from 0.4-#3 , 2#4, 4#5, 2#6


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