Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Alex midway up TCT.  Photo by Kim Caovan


Member Since: Apr 20, 2007
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Alexander Nees


Point Rank: # 835
Total Points: 776
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alexander Nees been climbing?










Contributions


All 500 | Routes 45 | Areas 6 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 66 | Posts 56 | Stars 193 | Ratings 101
Page 5 of 20.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Steppin' On it (5.9+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great crack! It's actually #3 Friends the whole way. If you have those, bring them, since they will fit the best. I would recommend bringing a single finger-sized cam to protect the bottom (I used a 0.4 C4). Without it, you're probably 30 feet off the ground in blocky terrain before getting gear.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Sweet Sunday Serenade (5.9)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 19, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Very nice, moderate, granite multi-pitch climb... a rare bird! Worth it for the second pitch alone, which would be a standout even in Yosemite. The route-finding on the third pitch is weird: I had trouble finding a direct line from the Sundeck to the "correct" 5.9 crack left of the main Sun Dancer dihedral, and wandered back and forth a lot. Also, there's an optional short thin finger crack at the top of the 3rd pitch, just right of the main crack, that offers the best 10 feet of climbing on ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band : OW (V2)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Ouch! There's calcite or something inside the crack that can really tear you up if you're not taped or very careful. Great practice for hand/fist stack and levitation technique... it's both in a corner and short, so it's not too hard at the size.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band : Dihedral (5.8)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This can be easily and naturally jammed as well as laybacked. I jammed it, since I was bouldering with no pad and wanted the security of jams instead of laybacking. It's basically all wide-hands to fists, super solid, good practice for that size.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band : Chimney (5.7)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I guess you could call this an "incipient chimney". I.e. it'll be a chimney once the pillar that currently plugs it falls out. There's a crack system on either side of the plug. You can climb either crack independently at around 5.7/5.8.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Some fun, short cracks here. I don't think it's necessary to bring a rope up to this cliff. The climbs are no more than about 15-20 feet tall, so they are easily boulder-able. Maybe if you were coming here to learn crack climbing skills, a rope would be useful... but it's not a great venue for that anyway.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band : Fingers (5.7+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: New, solid modern bolts and hangers have been installed. Not by me, though, but good on ya to whoever took the time.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Round-Up (5.11a)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb; I'd say it has a single hard move that's 5.10+. The rest is much easier, and there's good gear the whole way.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Jun 3, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is amazing. For the whole experience, it's definitely one of the best towers I've done, maybe the best. Castleton's North Face or Fine Jade still win for actual quality of climbing though, I think.

  • **Single Rope Beta***
Every single guidebook and topo tells you to bring 2 60M ropes, but I don't know why, it's completely unnecessary. To reinforce Monty's comment from 2009, you can easily rap Pale Fire in 4 single-rope rappels starting from the shoulder. This is an awesome descent... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Alexander Nees When: May 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great climb... but unfortunately I can't recommend it to anyone. There are simply too many loose, dangerous blocks on this route, most of which also threaten the belayer. I really enjoyed it, and it has a lot of good interesting climbing, but it felt too much like russian roulette. I won't do it again.

As of late May 2012, the deathblock tally is as follows:
(A) The refrigerator-sized rocker block at the top of Pitch 1, which is actually the most solid of the collection. It sounds... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Unknown, left of Keyhole Fl... (5.10-)
By: Alexander Nees When: Apr 3, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A #6 C4 works to protect the offwidth (I'm sure a #6 Friend would work too). It's not big enough for the very top of the offwidth, but it can be set high enough to prevent a groundfall when traversing right into the finger crack. I'd recommend the big piece for this route, especially if it's your first time on it. The traverse move is a bit funky and a fall from there could be ugly. Great climb though!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Meat Machine (5.11-)
By: Alexander Nees When: Feb 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb! Tough to figure the top out on lead; you kinda need to choose between focusing on the gear or the climb. #2 and 2.5 Friends work great, plus a single 1" piece.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
By: Alexander Nees When: Feb 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Can anyone provide information about the good-looking tight-hands (?) crack that is a bit left of Binou's Crack? It's in the back of a tight flare and ends under a roof. Maybe 80', with a modern-looking chain anchor?

EDIT: thanks for the info Devin. Maybe I'll get a chance to do this one soon; I'll post it up here if I do.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Trip to the Vet (5.10)
By: Alexander Nees When: Jan 11, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb! Definitely 10+ for the tricky moves off the deck. Maybe 10+ for big hands up in the tight section of the crack too. I felt comfortable and safe with a green #0 C3 protecting the opening moves; good rock and a nice constriction to keep it in there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Cauldrons : Eye of the Newt (5.10)
By: Alexander Nees When: Dec 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Outstanding route! Why this one is not in at least one of the various "Classics" guidebooks is a mystery to me. Beautiful setting, nice line, mostly good rock, great climbing. Its not as remote as many other climbs that people do all the time (it takes longer to get to Jah Man!) Rack: double set with 3x 1C4 and 3x 2C4, and one each 3 and 4 C4s. Nuts not needed.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Cube Steaks (5.10)
By: Alexander Nees When: Nov 16, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The pillar does look and feel sketchy... but it's been there just like that since at least 2005. This route gets plenty of traffic; you're probably not the person the block will pull on. Fun climb, good warmup since it's not pumpy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Alexander Nees When: Nov 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: climbed this a couple weeks ago. Not a big deal to do the third pitch... it's easy climbing, just don't fall before clipping the bolt. you wouldn't die, but it's not a fall you would want to take.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Nov 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Good rock, good bolts, fun climbing, an incredible but well-protected traverse pitch, beautiful views and no people! What else could you want? ...maybe a little more length, but if you do the direct start it feels like a substantial route. Stellar climb all around, and well worth the drive down there just for this one route.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Nameless Face (5.11-)
By: Alexander Nees When: Nov 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Outstandingly good, Red Rocks-style, face climbing. Definitely worth doing to make this tower route a bit longer and meatier. Tough warmup though, since it's vertical crimping right off the ground, with the crux around the first two bolts.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Triple Jeopardy (5.8)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This climb has not fallen down.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Unknown on far left side of... (5.11-)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route, well worth doing. A little sandy at the base and the top, with a section of somewhat suspect rock at the transition between splitter and corner. Good for working on tight hands jams, and a great hot-weather option in the afternoon. Anchor is drilled pins with webbing, but looked in good shape to me. Gave it a 10+ because it felt similar but significantly easier to me than Cave Route across the canyon at Battle of the Bulge.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory
By: Alexander Nees When: May 12, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: That's horrifying. Those butte and mesa tops are some of the last examples of relatively unimpacted, ungrazed desert vegetation available for study. It's crucial that we know what the environment is capable of becoming if we're going to make decisions about what we want to manage it to be. Doing a large-scale construction project up there basically destroys that opportunity. Yeah, yeah, climbers go up there all the time, it's not remote, etc etc. What can I say? One, I'm a climber and I li... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Hindu : Maverick (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Alexander Nees When: Mar 29, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: awesome composition idea!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Dark Angel : Photo
By: Alexander Nees When: Mar 17, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: yar, here's to fun, matey!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Alexander Nees When: Mar 9, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: For anyone who wants additional evidence of the changes that have occurred on this route from all the traffic...

What IHC used to look like!  Taken from the original 1988 "Desert Rock" (Bjornstad).  The changes are obvious compared to recent photos of the route here on MP.
What IHC used to look like! Taken from the original 1988 "Desert Rock" (Bjornstad). The changes are obvious compared to recent photos of the route here on MP.


Back then, the crack was parallel, the edge was crisp, and there weren't any wear marks. No doubt that this climb is getting beat out.


Page 5 of 20.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>