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I eat crack for breakfast.


Member Since: Apr 29, 2010
Last Visit: Jun 17, 2014
Contact Alex Washburne


Point Rank: # 5,563
Total Points: 63
Last Year: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Washburne been climbing?










Contributions


All 211 | Routes | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 8 | Posts 81 | Stars 107 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Alex Washburne When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: Whether or not this is sandbagged depends on your level of comfort with this style of climbing, namely, thin face climbing (think: tiny feet) with occasional insecure finger jams or tiny crimps. This is very similar in flavor to something interesting (5.7+), but I thought this was much harder (in that I came much closer to falling here than on SI). I think this was way harder than even modern times (5.8+) and about as hard as directissima because I LOVE getting pumped and HATE having my feet fee... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6)
By: Alex Washburne When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: This can be done in a single pitch with 60m double ropes. Followed by a single rap off the top with said doubles, this is how you get 'er done at the Gunks!

Best single pitch at the Gunks? In my opinion, it's up there with double crack, doubleissima from ground to GT ledge, Directissima arete linked with high-E, CCK direct or Bonnie's direct from ground to top. As I said before... Get 'er done!!!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Alex Washburne When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: 5.7+ PG-13 with the rack described. Sure, the fall on p3 would be "only farther in the slot" (claustrophobes beware... or anybody who has rational fears of being trapped and injured in a granite crevasse) or "not on the anchor" (= factor < 2) if you slide down outside the OW, but either way a fall at the crux OW by a leader carrying only up to a #4 would almost definitely end in injury. If you have big-enough Big-bros and a #6, then you can make it G.

For p3, definitel... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Excitable Boys (5.9+)
By: Alex Washburne When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this route today with Supra & Wes, linking pitches as seems to be the norm (1&2, 3&4). A few comments about pro:

IMO, #3 BD camalot was sufficient protection for the pitch 6 crux. I'm a pansy, relatively new 5.9 leader who sews up routes, and I brought the #5 for the OW (I absolutely abhor OW). However, I found the OW was a walk in the park compared to the crux right below it, sufficiently protected by said #3, and i dumped the #5 just to get rid of the weight.
... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Slim Pickens (5.10) : Photo
By: Alex Washburne When: May 17, 2011

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Comments: Not sure what these surprises are, but I can't wait to find out this summer! I gotta hand it to you - as much as I love hearing about the layout of routes beforehand, I haven't been more eager to hop on a route after your forecast of the unexpected! This is what we signed up for in the first place, no?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Double Crack (5.8)
By: Alex Washburne When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: This climb is like the 5.8 twin sister of double-issima - same aspect of a similar massive buttress, and the same sustained climbing that keeps you engaged from bottom to top. Insanely well protected - I'd call it G- if there were such a thing - as such it's a great climb for someone looking to push the grade. Finally, I pity the foo' who does this awesome climb in two pitches.

When rapping down from the top, two 50m ropes will get you to the bottom. With only one rope, you can rap off far to ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Gemstone (5.8)
By: Alex Washburne When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: Went up 5/16/10 and the off-width at the bottom was still wet. However, you can still get on by doing a little scrambling along the slab to the climber's left, clipping bolts along the way and finally making the traverse across the slab to the second half of gemstone's first pitch. The second pitch was in good shape.

There are plenty of spots for #3 and #4 BD cams on the second pitch, but you can double up on them if you want to sew up the route, otheriwse your standards trad rack w... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Revenge of the Elderly (5.7)
By: Alex Washburne When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: We climbed ROTE 5/8/10. The slab in P1 was dry but there was some mud and water near the tree anchor.

This year's freeze-thaw has made it's mark. On the rap down, we went from the bolts to the tunnel (end of P2), and from there to the ground using 2 60m ropes. When we pulled the ropes down after the first rap, the weight of the rope alone knocked off a good head-sized rock.

Otherwise, ROTE was a delight!