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I eat crack for breakfast.


Member Since: Apr 29, 2010
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 5,710
Total Points: 74
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Washburne been climbing?










Contributions


All 218 | Routes | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 84 | Stars 108 | Ratings 4
Page 1 of 9.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Beta for proper avoidance of poo

Beta for proper avoidance of poo

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Bitch's Brew (5.11-)

Jun 15, 2015

First somewhat essential birdshit-filled crack

First somewhat essential birdshit-filled crack

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Bitch's Brew (5.11-)

Jun 15, 2015

Happy Jug!

Happy Jug!

General Climbing : The emotions of climbing. P... : Post

Jun 18, 2013

Other teams will stare in awe as you pass them by.

Other teams will stare in awe as you pass them by.

Climbing Gear Discussion : Good mountaineering sun gla... : Post

Mar 7, 2013

2-3 ft static fall onto this one - any takers?

2-3 ft static fall onto this one - any takers?

Trad Climbing : Falling on gear success sto... : Post

Jan 22, 2013

Gangnum style

Gangnum style

Alex Washburne : Stuportramp

Jan 1, 2013

I eat crack for breakfast.

I eat crack for breakfast.

Alex Washburne : Stuportramp

Jan 1, 2013

Pinnacle Gulley, Mt Washington

Pinnacle Gulley, Mt Washington

Alex Washburne : Stuportramp

Jan 1, 2013

Summit of Pico

Summit of Pico

Alex Washburne : Stuportramp

Jan 1, 2013

Jack at Uncompahgre Peak

Jack at Uncompahgre Peak

Community Forum : Best Dog Photo ? : Post

Jan 1, 2013

Pepper spray can't deter this dreamboat.

Pepper spray can't deter this dreamboat.

Northern Utah & Idaho : How do you feel about dog e... : Post

Dec 31, 2012

These are the kinds of awesome dogs just waiting t...

These are the kinds of awesome dogs just waiting to be rescued!

General Climbing : What's the Best Climber's D... : Post

May 19, 2011

crag dog chillin

crag dog chillin

General Climbing : What's the Best Climber's D... : Post

May 19, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Bitch's Brew (5.11-)
By: Alex Washburne When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Cool route!

Anyone with a soft spot for swallows swirling around Torreon might want to listen to the Leave-No-Trace fairy and avoid this route. The Grand Canyons of shit come from a well-established colony of barn swallows and frequent traffic on this route will disrupt their breeding efforts, possibly moving the colony elsewhere (or disbanding it). I'm not making a normative statement but just a heads up. I felt kinda bad seeing those cool birds freak out just so I could get my rush, so I pro... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Alex Washburne When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: Whether or not this is sandbagged depends on your level of comfort with this style of climbing, namely, thin face climbing (think: tiny feet) with occasional insecure finger jams or tiny crimps. This is very similar in flavor to something interesting (5.7+), but I thought this was much harder (in that I came much closer to falling here than on SI). I think this was way harder than even modern times (5.8+) and about as hard as directissima because I LOVE getting pumped and HATE having my feet fee... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6)
By: Alex Washburne When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: This can be done in a single pitch with 60m double ropes. Followed by a single rap off the top with said doubles, this is how you get 'er done at the Gunks!

Best single pitch at the Gunks? In my opinion, it's up there with double crack, doubleissima from ground to GT ledge, Directissima arete linked with high-E, CCK direct or Bonnie's direct from ground to top. As I said before... Get 'er done!!!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Alex Washburne When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: 5.7+ PG-13 with the rack described. Sure, the fall on p3 would be "only farther in the slot" (claustrophobes beware... or anybody who has rational fears of being trapped and injured in a granite crevasse) or "not on the anchor" (= factor < 2) if you slide down outside the OW, but either way a fall at the crux OW by a leader carrying only up to a #4 would almost definitely end in injury. If you have big-enough Big-bros and a #6, then you can make it G.

For p3, definitel... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Excitable Boys (5.9+)
By: Alex Washburne When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this route today with Supra & Wes, linking pitches as seems to be the norm (1&2, 3&4). A few comments about pro:

IMO, #3 BD camalot was sufficient protection for the pitch 6 crux. I'm a pansy, relatively new 5.9 leader who sews up routes, and I brought the #5 for the OW (I absolutely abhor OW). However, I found the OW was a walk in the park compared to the crux right below it, sufficiently protected by said #3, and i dumped the #5 just to get rid of the weight.
... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Slim Pickens (5.10) : Photo
By: Alex Washburne When: May 17, 2011

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Comments: Not sure what these surprises are, but I can't wait to find out this summer! I gotta hand it to you - as much as I love hearing about the layout of routes beforehand, I haven't been more eager to hop on a route after your forecast of the unexpected! This is what we signed up for in the first place, no?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Double Crack (5.8)
By: Alex Washburne When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: This climb is like the 5.8 twin sister of double-issima - same aspect of a similar massive buttress, and the same sustained climbing that keeps you engaged from bottom to top. Insanely well protected - I'd call it G- if there were such a thing - as such it's a great climb for someone looking to push the grade. Finally, I pity the foo' who does this awesome climb in two pitches.

When rapping down from the top, two 50m ropes will get you to the bottom. With only one rope, you can rap off far to ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Gemstone (5.8)
By: Alex Washburne When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: Went up 5/16/10 and the off-width at the bottom was still wet. However, you can still get on by doing a little scrambling along the slab to the climber's left, clipping bolts along the way and finally making the traverse across the slab to the second half of gemstone's first pitch. The second pitch was in good shape.

There are plenty of spots for #3 and #4 BD cams on the second pitch, but you can double up on them if you want to sew up the route, otheriwse your standards trad rack w... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Revenge of the Elderly (5.7)
By: Alex Washburne When: May 10, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: We climbed ROTE 5/8/10. The slab in P1 was dry but there was some mud and water near the tree anchor.

This year's freeze-thaw has made it's mark. On the rap down, we went from the bolts to the tunnel (end of P2), and from there to the ground using 2 60m ropes. When we pulled the ropes down after the first rap, the weight of the rope alone knocked off a good head-sized rock.

Otherwise, ROTE was a delight!


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Do you stick clip?General ClimbingAlex Washburne6 days ago
re: How do you deal with crowds?General ClimbingAlex WashburneAug 24, 2015
re: Rappel accident in the Gunks on 7/25Injuries and AccidentsAlex WashburneAug 19, 2015
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