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Member Since: Feb 1, 2012
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 145 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts 16 | Stars 81 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Cat's Cradle (5.8+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Awkward and strenuous but takes good gear. Might be hard to on-sight if 5.8... or even 5.9 is your limit.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Tool Or Die (5.10a)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Bomber yellow Alien exists high and right in the flake before committing to the crux move. I found this to be substantially harder than other 5.10s in the area, but maybe I botched the sequence.

Probably the finest 5.9 handcrack around.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Horrendously hand-size dependent. As such, perhaps the 5.10b crux of my life (with #3 sized hands).

I did not enjoy this climb as much as I should have.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Front Porch : Tiptoe Slab (5.3 R)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: The rap sling has been bootied again, but the downclimb is really quite easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Are We Not Men (5.7 PG13)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I may be a glutton for the obscure, but I think this is my favorite moderate at Happy Hour.

Relative to other climbs at Happy Hour, the climbing in continuous, there are interesting features, and there is an exciting 20ft+ runout on 5.7 terrain to keep things exciting. The roof moves (attacked directly) are cryptic at first, adding to the tasty flavor of this climb.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : The Nose (5.6)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a fun romp, reminiscent of east face Flatirons excursions of the same grade-range: the major difficulties are encountered on the first pitch, and the rest is easy with short cruxes. The first pitch is quite polished, but the protection is adequate. I am guessing you move right at the pin to maintain the 5.6 grade.

Worth noting pitch three has a nice hand/finger crack variation that I wish would have lasted 200 ft instead of 30.

The descent is pretty benign and intuitive enou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Allosaur (5.9 R)
By: Alex Vidal When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: I don't find the first pitch run out to be too harrowing, it will take a smattering of marginal pieces which will likely keep you off the deck. However the beginning of the third pitch is frightening and potentially R rated with one piece between you and your belayer. Ballnuts potentially alleviate this problem.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : Three Tiers (WI2+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday, and it is in surprisingly good condition given the overall dryness of the area. Makes for a fun, early season jaunt.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Femp (5.9)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: Pretty nice route with pretty good protection. The pin seemed reasonable, and there are two good small (#4ish BD) nut placements within close proximity (1ft and 3ft). Also, it is possible to get to the Cave Exit/Cheap Date options by climbing the original finishing pitch, up through the roof onto the slab, and then working left through some very moderate slab (runout).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This is a really nice climb and frankly the 5.8+ rating seems a little soft. The climb is generally well protected except the beginning of the 4th pitch (which is easy) and the 6th pitch with the traverse (the difficulty can be minimized by focusing on the good feet, instead of the "good" looking chalked hands up high). I think it's important to note that the piton more so flexes than wiggles. I'm still not overly interested in taking a fall onto it, however.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Initial Route (5.8)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Definitely worth doing if you have done all the other routes in the area. The squeeze is actually pretty fun. At 5'11" I thought the 5.9- rating given by the guidebook was about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Ten Crack (5.10a)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Generally I consider myself to be very good with creative Eldo gear, especially passive gear. However, I thought this one was a bit hard to protect... certainly adequate but definitely not without a bit of spice. 2-3 marginal RP placements and a "reasonable" 0 Mastercam protected the crux moves.

Based on the other people's posts, perhaps I am wrong?


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : The Bends (5.11b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Probably easier than 11c for crack-enthusiasts. Very well protected though I found the 2nd bolt very awkward to clip if you are using the easiest technique for upward progress.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Shimminy Cricket (5.9)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: A really fun pitch. I am not sure why there are bolts, but might as well use them if they are there. Seemed like there were protection opportunities nearby in all cases (though perhaps the exfoliating rock is the reasoning?). The move around the second bolt seemed like the crux, but I saw a good #2 placement to the right of the bolt and another smaller cam placement above the bolt near the "solution" hold.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Giant Dihedral (5.8)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a fine trad line and not to be missed if you are in the area. The first pitch seemed kind of awkward, with reasonable protection opportunities in semi-questionable rock (be reasonably solid at the grade). The second pitch protects very easily and is not sustained (a good beginner's lead). The 5.8 section on the second pitch has bolts you can clip, so you really don't even need to be a 5.8 trad leader to tackle the second pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Arete (5.8)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Definitely has adequate pro if you take the time to place it. Fine climbing, tainted only by its brevity.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Circus Wall : Sucker Born Every Minute (5.11c/d)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 8, 2014

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Comments: A good climb, especially for its length. Considerably easier clipping holds are accessible with the draws pre-hung (even for someone with a 6ft+ wingspan).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Worth all the hype. Every pitch is good, especially up high. Hard to imagine better climbing, position, and exposure at such a moderate grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: We rapped from the tree at the top to the chains on the face above and to the left of the crux roof. From there, you can reach the ground with a 70m...but probably not a 60m.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 PG13)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: This is a good route overall with a lot of throw away climbing. I suspect it could be fairly easily linked in 2 pitches with a 60m (and for sure with a 70m). I thought the final pitch up the headwall had a lot of interesting climbing: Roofs, handcracks, thin technical cracks, and some engaging runouts between crack systems (which can be somewhat hard to discern unless you study the topo).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Alex Vidal When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Linking pitches 1-3 and 4-5 is possible with a 70m, there is even rope to spare. Drag is really not bad, even with 200 ft of rope out.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: Alex Vidal When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Probably my favorite 5.7 crux. No gear required other than a red or yellow Camalot, which you can place from a complete rest.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I climbed the route today in its new trundled form. The climb now accepts a #4 Camalot and is quite a bit easier through this section. There is a lot of dirt and loose rock still in the crack (much to the dismay of my belayer), we tried to get as much out as possible. Until it gets cleaned up a bit, I won't be climbing this route.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Is the Owen-Spalding dry?Wyoming, Montana, DakotasAlex VidalJul 7, 2015
re: The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions ThreadColoradoAlex VidalJan 29, 2015
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