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Location: WA : Tieton River : Wild Cat Wall
By: Alex Shainman When: May 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Albeit some dirt, dust, cobwebs and natural rockfall this is the best continuous quality wall at Tieton; unless there's some secret hidden wall I didn't find.
One 70M rope works great at this crag, as to not have to worry about the ends barely reaching...Especially for the routes Rhythm and Sorrow and Colonade - through Firestone (left to right) and Keel Hauled.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Split Decision (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: SD is a cool line for sure, not one of the best but there's hard climbing on good rock and engaging moves above gear and then bolt protected funkiness between arete and seam. Having the three upper bolts is nice compared to what appeared to have been short knifeblades in the seam. It's too bad the pillar is there and there isn't an uncontrived direct start. I didn't see a 1" placement and found #00-#2 TCU's and a #10 Stopper to be the best pro for the middle. Don't fall above t... more >>
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Location: WA : Ozone : Mordor : The Crumbling (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Half of the bolts on this rig are bad. The last is backed out almost 1/2" (hole also drilled improperly at an off-angle) and others are loosening and at least one stud is wiggly loose in the hole. The bottom biner on the yellow "fixed" draw is heavily worn.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Veal Cage (5.12)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That person would be me...the jug breaker that is! Actually it broke quite easily as I was pulling the move off of it. That was in '93 or '94 on a roadtrip with my buddy Chip R. After it broke, I pulled some of the fractured pieces out, lowered off, pulled the rope and re-lead it. We called it 12- and moved on. I remember the whole roof feeling sorta creaky. It musta broke more afterwards because it definitely wasn't 12c; it was easier than the crux of other .12's like Power Tools, etc... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Area 51 : ... : Photo
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just fuck it .... Bolt the planet! Haha j/k, that's not cool.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Anatolio (5.12b/c R)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the historical update and the corrections...Where exactly does the 3rd go??? Chad told me where the line basicly went and said I should check it out and I did, so I didn't know the full story. No disrespect...You DA man! Yeah unauthorized retrobolting is lame. If B & Y route had more bolts...It wouldn't be the same!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hadn't been on Vaso since '97 or so...and yes, I think a couple well used holds aren't there anymore. Speaking of loose holds, a big heads-up to any future suitors - in between the 5th and 6th bolts is a BIG timebomb ready to go! It's the last good rest before getting up into the scoop/shelf crux. You can right hand-jam and left wrist wrap the block to rest, clip the 6th, etc. It could cut your rope, take out your belayer, and definitely wipe out anyone lower in the gully like bowling pin... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Wire (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I, myself, am surprised that I hadn't been on this rig until today. As for the quality, etc, I am a full on route snob and despite a couple holds of questionable integrity, I thought the movement was quite enjoyable. As for the (crux) hold enhancement accusations...I think the "mini strip-steak" hold starting the crux, which obviously was glued back on, should be removed and the climb sent without it. It appears that there will be ample hand grips in its absence; just a little bit hard... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Camping Under the Influence (5.12-)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...funny, on my onsight go I saw that crispy jug and I went for it. A nice whipper later, said jug is now mostly powder on the ground. Since ropes are now longer than in the Bandito days of old, I'd vote for the anchor to be moved up a few feet to facilitate a more natural ending. If cleaned only a little, the flake above would be plenty clean and the finish will have better continuity. Great route!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Less Than Zero (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I shamelessly watched for gear beta, so I'll pass it along...
#1 Camalot to get to first bolt, sinker .75 Camalot after bolt crux (push it in there), (2) 00 Metolius stacked, 0 Metolius under roof, (1-2) .2 Camalots, (3-4) 0 Metolius (slot 'em) to chains. Use long draws on first 4 pieces to keep rope off the edge!
Totally Bitchin'!!! Four uniquely rad sections!
Probably 12d
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Funny Farm (5.11+)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: First off, definitely a unique and fun route! Kind of a cross between Zion and Red Rocks style.
The rack recommendation is a bit off! I was glad to have even smaller cams (.1 Camalot, 00 TCU, etc) and most people will want (3) .75 Camalots, for sure.
This route will get wicked sandy after rain. It was absolutely filthy when I first went up it...not free-climbable. After a serious brushing, it was quite enjoyable. Kudos!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : ... : Photo
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I looked at the way you went, actually my partner followed that way. It was a crap shoot, haha. Luckily the rock was sound and relatively easy, eh!
Ithaca's a cool continuous line, I thought!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : ... : Photo
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed maybe 20' to the right, straight up the thin black streak and directly below the next pitch dihedral...felt 5.6+ to me.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second the recommendation that one 70m rope does work well for the "low-point" raps starting under the big visor block, which is marked by a large cairn.
Be advised you will have to downclimb maybe 5.5ish terrain after rap #2.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Ithaca (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did Ithaca yesterday. Kudos to the FA team! Although the pitches easily link into one another to the summit, the FA must of been real and exciting! It's a stellar line of continuity but suffers from some scaly rock & lichen exfoliation and/or dirt and moss growth in the critical sections of cracks on 80% of the route. In a perfect alpine world and if totally cleaned, Ithaca would rival the best lines anywhere...As it stands, it's still worth doing at least once!
I agree with the above comments.... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Barely Eagle (5.13-)
By: Alex Shainman When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sustained "Boulder 12d" fo shizzle, my bizzle!
So you mean the left toothy crimp, which would be a sweet thumb catch in its own right, used to have a thumb catch? That's some hard bizzling!
Cool leg-flagging, seam-laybacking off balancedness to the top.
My main reason to comment, is to give heads up to the next person who gets on this to bring a wrench to tighten bolts #2 & 4.... They seriously unbizzled!
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Thindependence : Thindependence (5.11a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does everyone move immediately left under the roof/end of finger crack?? I went straight up the slot/corner. I wouldn't do it again that way, but it was cruxy, loose and dangerous gear in bad rock! Fun times :-) Bring a #10 Hex for the top of the slot if you give it a go.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Jimmy Cliff : Air Mail (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This fun route (and the .10 to its left - 1st bolt needs tightening) would be better if the stud bolts were replaced with something better.... On this route, the 3rd bolt is a bit loose in the hole; maybe it only needs to be tightened to slide the sleeve onto the cone but...???
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Jimmy Cliff : UB 31 (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Sport route" is a little misleading on this slightly loose in spots but awesome route. It's kinda stiff getting to the 1st bolt. An orange and yellow Alien work nicely.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : Photo
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty Blue Gun, 3rd classed? Yeah, why not, it's just a big boulder, right? ...Sweet sickness!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Cornucopia (5.13a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As for the namesake "horn-like" pod, oh yeah a #3 Camalot is way too big! I would recommend bringing both a #2.5 and a #3 Friend; decide which fits best to your liking.
Thanks for replacing those bolts, guys!!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Discipline (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #3 anything totally does not fit in that slot! I did this today after maybe 15 years and it's definitely a #4 Friend or Camalot! It is easy though....
Thanks for replacing those bolts, guys!!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great memories of this route! Did it once with Raleigh Collins (RIP) in 1996. After a late drive from his hang in JTree, we crashed at a lady friend of his' house in Vegas. The plan was to get up super early and hike in to do a couple routes including L29. While I slept, Raleigh and said lady friend partied it up with lots of alcohol and some funny stuff and much crazy sexual exploits which I learned about later...Anyways, my alarm woke me up to the low hum of some music from the bedroom. I bang... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Potato Chipper (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awfully contrived with the corner on the right and discontinuous movement. Not nearly as good as the route to its left.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that Bill Russell???
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