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Member Since: Jan 14, 2011
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Alex McIntyre


Point Rank: # 1,636
Total Points: 342
Last Year: 154
Last 30 Days: 11
4 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (392) | Routes (13) | Areas (1) | Photos (25) | Comments (72) | Posts (183) | Stars (64) | Ratings (34)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 7 - Celebrity Cave : Lee Majors (5.14)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Currently, a combination of my own draws and CP's original project draws are hung on this route. Mine are the mixed draws in the first half; CP's are the Petzl Spirit dogbone draws in the second half. CP's draws have been hanging for at least 10 years. They have seen essentially zero to negligible sun and water runoff and appear to be brand new (down to the still-pliable rubber keepers); however, one I removed was pull-tested by Geir Hundal and failed at only 1900 pounds(a... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : The Gallery
By: Alex McIntyre When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: Jake, I didn't take the nut and biner, but it's pretty absurd to think that a 1/2" stainless steel bolt that protects an entirely unnecessary near-horizontal rappel needs a backup and even more absurd to think that a nut there would hold should you somehow generate enough force to blow the bolt. If you leave gear that isn't welded in place it's going to be bootied, especially when it is completely unnecessary.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: A few years ago there was a bail biner on this route and I made it my mission to snag it and send the route in the process. I ended up aid soloing the route with a grigri and aiders to retrieve it and check out the holds. I came back later with a friend and managed to take a rather large fall from the leftmost point in the traverse up high and swung hard into the corner. I gave it another run but didn't get very far (it was the middle of July, ;long before I had figured out the "send... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Geir,

I read Eric's comment wrong the first time to read "This is my problem with you" which would seem to fit with some correspondence we've had in the past on the topic. I've edited my reply accordingly. Thanks for the heads up.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: I gave it zero stars. jbak gave it two. This one isn't very enjoyable, in my opinion. The movement isn't very interesting, the holds are basically razorblades (more so than almost any other holds on the Beaver Wall I can think of) and the line it takes isn't very inspiring to me. I do enjoy most climbing I do, but this one is pretty meh.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: I climb this so that others don't have to.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Send It (5.12a)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: I am going to disagree with Dave here and say that I really enjoyed this climb. It's been a couple years but I remember fun, technical climbing up the arete and face followed by cool dynamic sequences through the two roofs and a juggy slab to the chains. I did the right variation (staying completely on the steep overhang through both roofs and the top bulge). I remember seeing this listed somewhere as 12c, maybe the Sport Select guide? Regardless, I thought the climb was fun and a nice chang... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rage to Live (5.13a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: Luke, those are Peter Piek's project draws. The last set of draws he had up were stolen so he put up the Mambas with quicklinks to ensure that won't happen. They aren't permadraws and Pete will take them down when he sends. If you are worried about that runner I'd suggest talking to him about it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: Definitely an under-the-radar classic. There's even some history- when I did it there were a couple bolts with bed frame hangers! The movement through the giant scoop is really cool.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Standard Route (5.6)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 29, 2013

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Comments: Why would you need both climbers to hang there for more than just a couple minutes?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: It's worth noting that you do not continue straight on the trail for very long after the first direction switch toward climber's right. There is a signed junction with another trail that continues straight and level around the side of Mount Olympus; instead, at this junction you take the trail leading uphill and climber's left. It's currently marked with a sign (in the middle of the trail) that reads "Private Property, stay on trail". I misinterpreted this and thought it was just a s... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Charadras (5.7)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: This route is absolutely wild.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Special Brew (5.12)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: This is probably my favorite of the original 3 routes at The Pub. I recommend double length draws on the first 2 bolts to minimize rope drag.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : The Pub Crawl (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: This route may still be awaiting a second ascent. Get after it!

Update: And I hear that Rhyan Schefus has achieved the much coveted second ascent. Nice work!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : Mickey Goes to Vegas (5.9)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Did this on gear 6/2/13 for giggles. The bottom went easily but the top was a bit harder to protect without endangering the route should something break the rock. An okay #3 Camalot around to the left in the larger crack protected the last moves with the least potential for destroying the route. Jake Croft did it mostly on tricams only, clipping the last 2 bolts. We're calling it Mickey Goes to Eldo... just kidding.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Linkup: Hebe to CWAV (5.13a)
By: Alex McIntyre When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: I didn't post this until now because I was trying to think of a clever name. I never did. The one star rating is a bit of a misnomer, as the movement is cool and it does linkup what are, in my opinion, two 4 star lines. However, it is still just a linkup and isn't special in its own right.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rage to Live (5.13a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: I just checked my guidebook. SQL2 says Craig Smith did the FA of the traverse start in 1987 and Brad Smith did the FA of Rage Direct in 1988.

While I've heard of several repeats of this line before this last year, I haven't heard anything about previous repeats of Rage Direct. I'm surprised as the movement is really good and interesting, as long as you can reach the holds at the start.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: We talked in the gym jbak, I would agree the changes would make sense now. Although I would love to see the pin stay and just have a bolt nearby, as opposed to pulling it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Why can't we just leave it as-is? I like the pin, it's (seemingly?) bomber and adds character to an already interesting route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Photo
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: I've always belayed off of slung chickenheads on BQ pitch 4, not off of a tree.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rich and Dave Route (5.8+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 4, 2013

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Comments: Walking off is almost certainly faster than doing 2 rappels, I know my partner who chose to walk down rather than rap beat me to the bottom by a few minutes.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Trapeze (5.11d)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Looking at the guidebook now (thanks EFR!), I can confirm a couple things. Easy on the Beaver is actually left of the Trapeze corner, and the bolts do not interfere with Trapeze. What is called Easy on the Beaver in the book I believe is actually the direct finish to Trapeze referenced above, and these bolts also do not seem to interfere with Trapeze original.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Lessons In Yorkshire (5.13a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: Probably the fewest crimps on this route that I've ever pulled at the Beaver Wall; there's quite a few full pad or more edges, but only a couple small crimps. Really cool, powerful, yet body-tension-mandatory movement. Lots of nonstandard Beaver Wall hold types like slopers and underclings. I enjoyed this route a lot!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: It appears bees have taken up residence and built a hive in the giant jug in the roof of the Bee Cave (on the project Scully bolted with the chain draws). You can see the honeycomb from the ground (it looks like golden glue). I tried climbing Stranglehoff, fell at the 2nd crux, and realized the bees were flying around me in increasing numbers. I lowered immediately, no one got stung, but just a word to the wise. Make sure you are prepared if climbing in the bee cave!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: Derek, that line is Icarus 5.11. Bolted & FA'd by Eric Scully and Rob Edwards. It looks great and Scully says it is, but I haven't been able to get on it yet.


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