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Member Since: Oct 5, 2009
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Alex Kirkpatrick


Point Rank: # 1,681
Total Points: 346
Last Year: 148
Last 30 Days: 0
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Kirkpatrick been climbing?










Contributions


All 160 | Routes 19 | Areas 1 | Photos 23 | Page Improvments | Comments 26 | Posts 6 | Stars 61 | Ratings 24
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : In Search of Silence (5.13b)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Luke, I don't think I could say it any better. In terms of "drawing a line" I would say that responsibility falls on the community, not the guide author. And since to my knowledge not a single one of your examples has actually happened and been named (I actually thought about the CWAV-Hebe link but decided trapezoid-hebe was the better and harder line) I agree with Luke that the community is self regulating and there is no problem.

I think ultimately Luke nails it that its a question of... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : In Search of Silence (5.13b)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Eric and Red, there is no longer a question of whether this route should get a name. For better or worse, whether it deserves it or not, I gave it a name. So the only question is to put the route in the book or not. I don't think it matters specifically how the route is listed, but I do think it is a bummer to not list a route that someone has thought good enough or novel enough to give a name.

This link up is not much harder than anything on the wall and a bunch of people could have done it, ... more >>


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Hardware : Climbing Bolt Types : Wedge Bolts
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: After having some bolts that I placed come loose, I have started applying loc-tite to the threads before snugging down the bolt. I think there can be a tendency to over-torque a bolt to prevent it from loosening, but the loc-tite provides the confidence to leave the bolt at an appropriate torque without fear of loosening. I use blue (semi-permanent) loc-tite in case I need to move a bolt during the FA process, but red (more permanent) would work fine too. Loc-tite can get expensive from your loc... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : F*ck Me Pumps (5.13+)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: John, I don't feel like I can suggest an accurate or meaningful grade right now.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Cowpunks (5.12b/c)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: The one super rusty bolt before the crux was replaced on 4/15/2014.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : F*ck Me Pumps (5.13+)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: I re-bolted this on 4/15/2014 and sent it on 4/16/2014. The name stays. Bitchin route. Its not over till its over. The go before the send I fell after pulling the final lip on the final 11+/12a moves right before standing up and clipping the chains. Bolts are all in much better places now if you've been on it in the past. Also the approach is trimmed up considerably and I put some fixed lines in. Go get it!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Pucker Up (5.13a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Classic! Thanks for the new bolts Luke


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Air Monsters (5.12a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Many on the bolts on this route, including the crux bolt, were taper bolts. Here is a statement by the ASCA about these bolts in a test they did:

"We really gave Taper Bolts a chance, setting dozens of them in their optimum substrate, hard rock. We tried to set the bolts by "feel," just as you would when climbing. Half the time we got it right and the 3/8inch Taper Bolts held up to 3000 pounds in a straight pull out. But we blew it with the other half and the bolts slid out of the hole at only ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Air Monsters (5.12a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Replaced all bolts with stainless 2/23/2014. The old anchor remains but looked bomber for years to come. Enjoy!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 4 - Superfly Sector : Betamorphosis (5.13b/c)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: A critical hold broke off the crux of this route making the boulder problem significantly harder, hence the grade change.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Chains in the Grove (5.14a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: A few folks have asked me about the name:

"Hebe was worshipped as a goddess of pardons or forgiveness; freed prisoners would hang their chains in the sacred grove of her sanctuary at Phlius."


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Chains in the Grove (5.14a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: The proposed grade is a suggestion at best. I do think that this route is harder than Hebe. Climbing Hebe to the rest clocks in around 13a in my opinion, and to do the link up you climb through all of the hard climbing on Trapezoid, which seems to be settling in around 13b. You have also done significantly more climbing, and I felt more pumped arriving at the rest on Hebe. The grade makes sense for me based on the other grades on this wall, but who knows. Come find out and set me straight!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Also Ryan is right about the chipping. The route would not take the same line. It would be possible to climb some ledges and begin the climb just below the mid anchor all natural, but I like the start.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Ryan and Josh, I agree. I am bummed about the self inflicted name shenanigans and liked the name Atonement. However, I feel that as much as we like to think climbing is a majestic pursuit, doing a hard project has a lot to do with hard work and overcoming doubt. I thought of a few other names with more gravitas, but for me this route was about process. Either way I think the route speaks for itself.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: I originally called this route Atonement. Shortly after naming it, I was informed that a route was put up under the same name and in the VRG roughly a year ago. Since this route is new, I chose to rename it. Not that it really matters


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 4 - Superfly Sector : 100 Degrees of Solitude (5.13)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: I guess Eric thought this route was so bad he didnt even have to climb it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Morgue (5.14a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: Sometimes I find chipped holds more aesthetically pleasing and better to climb on than glued holds, especially when the glue is smeared all over the wall or even dried on the ground around the cliff. Is one way of altering the rock superior to the other? Gluing may seem less invasive, it is certainly easier and less noisy than chipping. It is easier to convince ourselves that gluing is on the path of right; we are repairing, reinforcing, instead of destroying. But is repairing somethin... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Voodoo Child (5.10+)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: I disagree that the crux is well protected. I found myself doing what I thought were 11a moves 15-20 ft above the bolt. I could have been in the wrong place, could have bungled the beta, or some sand could have fallen out my you-know-where and gotten the footholds dusty. Just make sure you're a solid slab climber or have solid ankles before going for this. Once again, opinions only.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 4 - Superfly Sector : Betamorphosis (5.13b/c)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Thanks man! I cant take any credit for the name. That was all Vince and Luis. I'm just jealous because my baby beard is blonde and splotchy


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: So I'm not sure how this place garnered a reputation as a winter crag. In the winter it can be freezing cold because of the wind and too hot at the same time because you are forced to climb in the sun. In my opinion it is a much better shoulder season/summer crag. Those who can handle approaching in the sun will be rewarded with shade temps from 50-70 degrees when it is 80s to 100s in Tucson. The Celebrity cave is in the shade from early morning on, and the whole crag goes into the shade between... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments:


Lets all try and keep tick marks to a minimum size and quantity at this beautiful area.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Mar 1, 2013

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Comments: I was originally told that only high clearance was necessary for access to the dry. BE WARNED there is a significantly steep and rutted hill about 2 miles from the end of the road. 4WD is necessary for this hill. However, it is possible to get up to here with only high clearance and the approach to the crag is ~40 minutes and still worth it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Beach : No War (5.13c)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Feb 15, 2013

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Comments: Great climb! Wild moves and sequences like nothing else in the Tucson area. A boulderer's dream!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Ninja (5.13)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: May 22, 2011

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Comments: Hey is this the huge slabby headwall thats listed in the guidebook as "vertical blank face". if not is there anything on that headwall?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : The Wizard (5.12a)
By: Alex Kirkpatrick When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments: @ Jon Ruland: your comment made my day!


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