Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Oct 19, 2003
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Alex Chiang

Point Rank: # 22,401
Total Points: 4
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 1
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Chiang been climbing?










Contributions


All 8 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 4 | Posts | Stars 4 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jul 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It is possible to bump a #3 BD cam almost the entire length of P3, but the section is long enough that you'd want to have at least 2 of them and leave one at the halfway mark.

I have hands on the smaller side, but the fact that the #3 is sufficient means that this pitch is more like fists for me, than an actual OW.

A #4 isn't strictly necessary (but I guess wouldn't hurt). Just make sure you save 2 pieces of that size for *after* the roof and you'll be fine.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jun 12, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Cool route. We didn't summit, because we got sleeted on near the top and we just wanted off. Instead of going all the way to the summit and rapping off, we traversed around to the backside where there's an easy downclimb for about 10 feet which will allow you to descend via the west descent gully.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Good Timing (5.10a)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jun 6, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I had the 2001 Gillett book, and it claims a 5.9 rating, which I thought was legit, albeit on the stiff side. Then again, I expect most routes at Lumpy to be stiff, so take that comment for what it's worth.

The roof on P1 protects nicely for the leader, as you can get a piece in above your head, but I couldn't figure out a good way to protect the second. Perhaps a #5 of profanity and a friendly "don't fall" comment while you're nice and safe at the belay bolts.

I only saw 3 bolts as of J... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Spoof (5.8+)
By: Alex Chiang When: Oct 19, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: As if the slick rock and awkward pro weren't enough, climbing this route also requires wallowing through piles of pigeon guano and breathing poo dust. I would only recommend this route if you have climbed every other route in the canyon and simply need to get that last tick.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

West Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Daff Dome West Face

Southeast Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Cathedral Peak

Snott Girlz 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

North America : Mexico : ... : Mota Wall

Great White Book 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Stately Pleasure Dome

Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!