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4th pitch Rewritten


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Alex A


Point Rank: # 544
Total Points: 1,047
Last Year: 170
Last 30 Days: 2
33 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (799) | Routes (29) | Areas | Photos (124) | Comments (137) | Posts (72) | Stars (373) | Ratings (64)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Falls Wall : Invaders from the North (5.11b)
By: Alex A When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Fun climbing. This is best climb here. It would be a 3 star route, BUT clipping the 1st two bolts is a PAIN, as the hangers are SPINNERS!!! NEW, OLD SCHOOL, COLD SHUTS.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Atlantis Dome : Missing The Dike aka Two Di... (5.9)
By: Alex A When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: There are new bolts, still old school spacing. Don't blow the 2nd clip.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Valhalla Mountains
By: Alex A When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: Great alpine rock climbing area, Thank you, for adding this AMAZING area to MP, was there for 2 weeks,

they just started the new Gimli trail only a short section was done, when we were there, most be nice to have a trail all the way,

The lower Mulvey Valley has a lot of grizzly bears, they travel high, see photo bear print, only one bear sighting in the upper valley, and No mt goats,

FYI, did not use chicken wire, we had no issues, but friends have had issues with porcupines, in BC, very $$... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Lion's Head
By: Alex A When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: There is no entrance to park at the lower Elk Falls trail. The trail was used by the people who live in the area to get to the base of the waterfall, not a official park trail. The only way is to cross private property, which is not legal. The new Elk Falls trail will go to the top of the waterfall. It is not finished yet. The park was not open last year.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Whistle Pig : Squeal Like Porky Pig (5.10 PG13)
By: Alex A When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: You should be solid at the grade, if you're leading it as your first piece is close to the ground, near the first crux. It is PG-13. The 2nd crux is after crack ends, PG-13. The upper slab is R rted, but it is easy to top rope.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Bird of Fire (5.10a)
By: Alex A When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: ONE THE BEST ROUTES IN THE PARK, SO MUCH FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Alex A When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Fixed pins are legal to use, according to Mike Morin, but they're saying no fixed hardware. To me, pins are fixed hardware.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : The Babe With Power (5.10+)
By: Alex A When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb, but SANDBAG, Reefer Madness, 5.11- CCC, or Rain On, 5.10+, so much easier, the guide says power up bouldery jugs, you will need the power, a couple good holds, but no jugs, till after the crux, foot work is key to do this climb.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : The Voodoo That You Do (5.7+)
By: Alex A When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb, the variation is little easier than the standard route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Cave of Eternal Stench (5.9-)
By: Alex A When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: The upper crack is 5.7/8 not 5.9 and not the crux, is the trad crux, need some small cams, the crux is the cave.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiffel Tower (5.10d)
By: Alex A When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Getting to the 2 bolt is PG-13. My partner had bad fall there, so be warned.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Jungle : Jungle Beaver (5.10+)
By: Alex A When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Why SO vague on the discretion, far left of what!!!!!!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Lion's Head
By: Alex A When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: There is no easy way, one of a couple ways, I now of, hike to Elk Falls Pond, follow power lines/Elk Creek downstream, till you get to Chimney Rock on the right. Stay to the right of it. There's an old trail that leads to the base of the waterfall, with some deadfall, that leads down the creek, below the Northeast face of Lion's Head. Bushwhack up to the NE face, traverse round to the left. If you hike too far down the creek, you will come to private property,

The other way:
Hike the Lion's ba... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Hunting Party (5.10+)
By: Alex A When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: One hard move.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : No Rain (5.10+)
By: Alex A When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb, did it two ways, normal and var.
Can be climbed as a harder Var. not going to the flake, go straight up on thin holds to pocket above bolt, 5.10++++, ok maybe 11a, Babe with the Power, is 5.10+, was harder then going straight up for me.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : Dave Bell Memorial (5.10-)
By: Alex A When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: I think, if you follow the bolt line, 5.10a, 2 thin moves, 5.9 if you go to the right, about 2ft.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nightworm Pinnacle : Arety-ret Flakey Fest (5.7)
By: Alex A When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: FYI, this is not a new route, climbed it along time ago, and I don't think if was FA then.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Extra Crispy (5.10b)
By: Alex A When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: No way is the 5.10b, if you follow the bolt line. More like 5.11b/c, not stepping on the rocks in the chimney to the right.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart : Woger's Woof Wightside (5.11c) : Photo
By: Alex A When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: This is not, Woger's Woof Wightside.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Alex A When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: 2013 Road Opening,
Update 5/9/13 (source, South Platte Ranger district):
Rampart Range Road is scheduled to open today. 2] Devil's Head Campground opens Memorial Weekend (possibly the weekend before, but that is up the concessionaire ph # 720-445-1485)

South Platte Ranger district, 303-275-5610, the PHONE has not been working for a long time. If you get a FAST BUSY SIGNAL, IT IS STILL NOT WORKING, CALL THE PIKE FOREST SERVICE HEADQUATERS, FOR UPDATES, 719-553-1400.

5/8/13 - it is still ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: Alex A When: Jan 1, 2013

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Comments: My 2 CENT'S, sandstone chicken heads, Bomber NOT!! what were you thinking, you where not thinking, OMG, plus 100% belay anchor, need to learn more, a lot more,


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Porkchop Buttress : The 100 Inch Reach (5.11d)
By: Alex A When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Hey Burt, climbs like this are best way to keep climbers pure, swin or sink, no 2nd chances on this one, make it or take the big swing, on my onsight attempt, got to a big hand hold, at the overhang, only to have the hold break, then the big swing into the tree,


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Little Half Dome : Photo
By: Alex A When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: WOW, 6 bolts in 115 feet is over-bolted. He wishes for the old days, a bolt every 30 feet.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Monolith Blocks : Surfing With The Alien (5.11c/d)
By: Alex A When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: You are right, it was named after the Joe Satriani album, I did the FA, in 1989 I'm tall and it was still hard,


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney : Homo Erectus (5.10+ R)
By: Alex A When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: I did the FA on TR about 18 yrs ago, do not remember the name, give Swartling the info, should be in the S&M guide book, as I do not have a copy of S&M guide, not sure if it's there, road my mt bike my up service road to clean, it was dirty and removed some loose rock, look at for a lead, but big chicken after I shattered my ankle on an R route at J-Tree,
nice lead, onsight or headpoint


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