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 ADVANCED
I was riding shotgun <br />in the devil's cadillac... <br />we were heading for the crossroads <br />with a monkey on my back...


Member Since: Nov 5, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 26, 2014
Contact Aleix


Point Rank: # 1,880
Total Points: 304
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Aleix been climbing?










Contributions


All 130 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 47 | Page Improvments | Comments 49 | Posts 30 | Stars 2 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Aleix When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: Are the haul lines up to Heart Ledges fixed ? (As of May 2014) Many thanks.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Son of Gums (5.10)
By: Aleix When: Jan 24, 2012

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Comments: Great route, not scary, if you want to practice some offwidth.

I would give the tricky start of "pitch 3" a 5.10 rating (harder if you are short?), even though the rest is indeed 5.8

I would also be curious to know how many ascents this route has seen.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak
By: Aleix When: Mar 29, 2011

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Comments: True, I was referring to the posting before yours (about the handgun). My posting was vague as to who I was adressing (my apologies) and I added a reference to the author of the post before yours. As for the rest, I do agree with your efforts to keep climbers informed about the fact that Babo's area is not the same human environment as climbing destinations further north, even if our views may differ on the risk level.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak
By: Aleix When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: Everytime I go to Babo, some border patrol guy tells us that it's full of "guerrillas and dopers" and to "watch your ass, guys". We should have asked the guy what he was doing down at the road harassing us while Babo was "full of guerrillas and dopers" (go get them!).

Lucky me, I've never seen any. Also, I have never seen any border patrol officer hiking the trails or "border-patrolling" up there.
The immigrants are common, and the ones I've met (never in Babo) were fearful individuals who wa... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Aleix When: Jan 9, 2011

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Comments: Thanks guys.
Indeed, it was cold, the granite is bullet proof, the crack is perfect, the finger-locks are as good as they get, and although the leader never actually stuck his tongue to the rock, he still didn't slip. Placed another piece, kept climbing and hanged up high because I couldn't feel my fingers due to the cold.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Lemmon Meringue (5.11a)
By: Aleix When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: True, it's like being forced to spell complicated names while you could just leave them out of the FA list.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Coup de' tat (5.13)
By: Aleix When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: Yes, Jesse sent it yesterday, but it wasn't just a send: right when he got past the crux it started pouring and had to do the last upper section with rain in his eyes and water flowing over the holds. The waterfalls at the rim and out of the orifice chimney appeared. He stuck with it and finished the damn thing, an epic send. When I lowered him he was soaked as a duck. Probably the hardest send of that route. Congrats Jesse !


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Aleix When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: Agree, it's just 5.10, or 10+ ...
I know it's hard to stay humble when you are a Legend, Jimbo, please make an effort to put up with the rest of us, mere mortals. But how can you even make the difference between 11a and 10d when you don't fall on anything easier than 12+ !


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Aleix When: Dec 24, 2009

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Comments: Hi Paul, protecting the first pitch is now a no-brainer, with cams.
I wonder how it was with nuts & hexes back in the day ?!
New route in the rappel line? Would love to know about it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Golden Beaver Left (5.13-)
By: Aleix When: Dec 18, 2009

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Comments: Congrats David. You are the King, way to show us who's boss in this mountain.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Aleix When: Sep 3, 2009

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Comments: Hey Luis, this is actually the 4th pitch of the 5.11 left variation of Endgame. The route that starts going left after the 8th bolt on endgame... That was a great climb !


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Coup de' tat (5.13)
By: Aleix When: Aug 4, 2009

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Comments: Inspiring sends, amazing indeed, and I got to watch them both. :-)
Congrats!!

Since I am not american, I had to look up "tat" and this is what wikipedia says: "Thematic Apperception Test or TAT has been amongst the most widely used, researched, and taught projective psychological tests. Its adherents claim that it taps a subject's unconscious to reveal repressed aspects of personality, motives and needs for achievement, power and intimacy, and problem-solving abilities."

How do you guys choose... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : ... : Photo
By: Aleix When: Jul 29, 2009

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Comments: Nice pic !!
Seems that you had a cloudy day, it must have been nice, specially for this pitch.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Aleix When: Jul 15, 2009

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Comments: Regardless, how would you get off End Pinnacle (3 double rope rappels) without a harness, a belay device, and two draws of some sort to clip into the rappel stations ?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: Aleix When: Jul 2, 2009

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Comments: I thought the 11++ pitch (after the 12b pitch) was harder than any of the two 12a pitches. Perhaps due to lack of technique, ...and being tired by the time you get up there...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Aleix When: Jul 2, 2009

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Comments: I thought the 3rd pitch corner was the one with the trickiest gear. I did what I thought was the crux with a 00 alien just below my feet. After that, I luckily found two fixed stoppers just above me. Protecting the fourth pitch and the climbing itself was very enjoyable after that.
Thanks for the note Manuel, I placed a piece at the lip of the roof on the last pitch and it prevented the rope to get stuck.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Photo
By: Aleix When: May 21, 2009

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Comments: Supercrack on the right, it looks so amazing.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : The Prow (5.11a)
By: Aleix When: May 18, 2009

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Comments: I should have read this thread before getting on it. Not having three green cams (.75) made me blew my onsight. Downclimbing to recover the right gear below and climbing back up will certainly get you pumped. I bet the first ascent was done with hexes and nuts, so what am I whining about...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Tyr (5.11+)
By: Aleix When: May 13, 2009

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Comments: That's right, you can never go wrong with GEIR's GEAR beta !


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Tyr (5.11+)
By: Aleix When: May 13, 2009

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Comments: Thanks Geir and Eric !
I couldn't have done it without you guys (...and your gear beta) :-)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: Aleix When: Apr 10, 2009

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Comments: If someone finds a gray winter hat in the ledge up and right from the base of the third pitch (below rappel anchors), please contact me.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ides of Middlemarch (5.9+)
By: Aleix When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: Well,even if it's part of an older route, it's still the original finish to Ides, and it's still a good pitch. Scott may remove the loose rock one of these days, he said, specially if he can find a volunteer to help him. I would recommend it to anyone who hasn't done the route yet.

It was nice to see you at the elk fest Geir, wasn't it an amazing party?!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ides of Middlemarch (5.9+)
By: Aleix When: Apr 6, 2009

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Comments: After my previous comment, Scott Ayers contacted me personally and explained the following to me. Quoting part of his message so that nothing gets lost, for everybody's information:
"
Just wanted to give you a bit of feedback about your comments on M.P.
about the route "Ides". I repeated that top pitch a few months ago, and very clearly remember passing two large blocks that could potentially cause major collateral damage (to the belayer, to routes/fixed gear below, to anyone standing at the ba... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ides of Middlemarch (5.9+)
By: Aleix When: Apr 3, 2009

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Comments: The last original pitch of Ides of Middlemarch, which does not appear in the topo, is the real deal. Fist/OW crack where you turn an overhang to the left. I did that pitch a while ago before there were bolted anchors in the route and I found it to pack some of the best moves in the climb. As opposed to what Dan Cohen says, I don't remember any particularly dangerous "loose blocks". You should to do it if you want to say you did Ides of Middlemarch.

This said, thanks Geir, your topos are always... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Aleix When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: Nice Adam ! way to tear it up... :-)
(I am sure that felt easy for you)


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