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Member Since: Oct 10, 2004
Last Visit: Apr 26, 2005
Contact alan_doak


Point Rank: # 10,506
Total Points: 19
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 10 | Routes | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 4 | Posts | Stars 3 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part F - The P... : French Fry (5.12b)
By: alan_doak When: Nov 21, 2005

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Comments: It seemed really clean (and thin) when I was up there last weekend. Maybe Alex removed the last of the thin chips and flakes while he was up there. Great position leaves you wintering in the sun long after everything else is in the shade. The chains are easy to scramble to so we ended up toproping the route, but it looks like a blue or yellow TCU and sling would be useful past the 4th bolt. But, by that time the climbing eases up considerably.

Even though the route is so short, I would give it... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: alan_doak When: Apr 26, 2005

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Comments: Regarding J Thompson's questions about bolts... I talked to the climbing ranger, and he said that Jared told him that he had only added a couple of bolts to pitch 6 to establish a variation to avoid the pendulem. It didn't look like anybody pulled heads and placed bolts instead, the number of bolts on the route seemed fairly consistent with the Williams topo. There are still many long sections of fixed heads and hooks.

I can't say how the character of the climb has changed with the bolt upgrade... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: alan_doak When: Apr 26, 2005

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Comments: On April 23rd, Stefan Griebel and I climbed the route in 23h39m from base to top. If anyone else has done the route in 24hours, I'd be interested to find out.

It's hard for me to comment on the bolts, since this was my first time on route, but they were all in good condition (except for the nearly blown rivet on pitch 6). I had heard that additional chicken bolts had been added to pitch 10, but it appeared that it was more of an upgrade (i.e. there was a fatty bolt 1 move above an old rivet). A... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: alan_doak When: Oct 10, 2004

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Comments: I did the route a couple of months ago with Stefan and had a fantastic time. Thanks Rich for all of the time and effort. Here's my question:

So... The route was almost chopped because it had 31 bolts or so (I don't remember exactly). But, since it was such a fantastic route and it wasn't a total clipfest, it was barely decided that it was *okay* to leave the route intact. Suppose it had 34 bolts instead of 31, would the choppers have erased the entire route, or just the 3 offending bolts?

-A... more >>