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V3, Castle Hill, NZ


Member Since: Mar 15, 2012
Last Visit: Jun 1, 2014
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Point Rank: # 5,273
Total Points: 69
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has A.Javi.Gecko been climbing?










Contributions


All 211 | Routes | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 47 | Stars 73 | Ratings 66

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : HVCG Bouldering Circuit : ... : Stem Gem (V4)
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Dec 27, 2012

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Comments: The lessons I learned from Stem Gem:

1) Get up at dawn when friction is good

2) trust the ball bearings.

3) One quartz crystal can make all the difference. Literally. I sent by smedging on a single crystal.

4) Palm-friction saves the day.

Also, according to this:
fishproducts.com/powerandrubbe...

Stem Gem is V2... WTF?


Location: NH : Rumney : Upper Darth Vadar : Victim of Love (5.8)
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Dec 23, 2012

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Comments: Glad to hear some folks went to check it out and that the moving blocks don't appear to be falling anytime soon. I certainly overreacted but luckily multiple people went to make sure as there's no other way to find out and I wasn't exactly raring to test the route again.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: better to have a prof who understands


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Dirty Dozen (5.10d)
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Nov 23, 2012

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Comments: I thought this route was REALLY GOOD. Challenging mentally and physically because ALL THE HOLDS FACE THE WRONG WAY. Loved it!


Location: A.Javi.Gecko : Myself on Rocks : Photo
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: I never noticed the alien on left-hand side D:!


Location: A.Javi.Gecko : Myself on Rocks : Photo
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: Pick a good piece!


Location: NH : Rumney : Upper Darth Vadar : Victim of Love (5.8)
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this route as a warm down this past weekend and found myself stressing out (and thus NOT warming down) the entire climb. In my opinion, THIS ROUTE IS NOT SAFE TO CLIMB. While a couple routes at lower Darth Vadar have SOME loose rocks, the top half of this route is VERY CHOSSY with several fist to microwave-sized blocks that are just waiting for someone to pull them down as well as an unavoidable torso-sized flake that wiggles while you hold onto it to clip the 4th(?) bolt. Victim of Lo... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : Beehive Boulders : The Terrible Face (5.11+)
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: One bolt for the light hearted, a moderately-high ball for those with adequate paddage


Location: International : Oceania : New Zealand : North Island : Wharepapa South : ... : Thunderblaster (5.9)
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Aug 2, 2012

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Comments: Considering the fact that most of the routes at Froggatt's are grade 25+ (5.12), this is a great route as one of the best moderates you'll find there.


Location: International : Oceania : New Zealand : South Island : Paynes Ford : ... : Temples of Stone (5.9)
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: On the bathroom wall at Hangdog Camp there's a list of those who have climbed Temples of Stone naked... I'm proud to have joined the club ;)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Indian Rock : Indian Rock : Overhung roof problem (V4 R)
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: There are 3 versions of this climb that I know of...

The original uses a small right-hand side pull that goes at about V3+. It feels harder at first but thats only because its so high up.

There's also a V3-/V2+ version that involves a short dyno (or deadpoint if you're tall) from the two awesome crimps just before the sidepull up to the jug at the top. Don't eff up though or you'll fall onto the slab to the right (I've seen many near-misses when friends jump too hard).

Finally, there is C+, ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Indian Rock : Indian Rock : The Bubble (V5) : Photo
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: Yippee, that's me! Didn't send it on that try but soon afterwards I did. Such a satisfying reach :)


Location: International : Oceania : New Zealand : South Island : Charleston : Photo
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: The major horizontal and vertical shown in this photo respectively make up the two pitches of "Shark's Breakfast" (grade 18/5.9). First pitch is an awesome traverse across the surge pool with the crux of the climb in the first few moves. Pitch 2 follows the large vertical crack to a slab/mantle top out. This awesome route is unclimbable in high seas when wave action crushes the first pitch and belay point.


Location: OR : The Garden : The Garden : Photo
By: A.Javi.Gecko When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Uugghhh Octurnal is one of THE BEST boulders in The Garden. Jugs, crimps, and left-traversing heel smears to a mossy top. Glad to see it getting some mention on the "photos of the moment" section of MP. Anyone who can climb V5 in the Willamette Valley should get on the short version. The V8/9 sit start is gnar but such a beautiful line. This project still haunts my dreams but alas, it could be a long while til I'm up in OR again.