Contributed Comments |
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: afh When: Aug 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rappel off this route with one 70M rope. From the top of the last pitch scramble up 30 feet into the woods, go 150 feet climbers left above an obvious tree with rappel tat. Scramble down and 5 or six rappels will bring you to the ground.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Moss Cliff : A Touch of Class (5.9+)
By: afh When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the crux was transitioning from the layback crack to the chimney on P3. Certainly one of the best routes of that length and grade in the northeast.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : Romano's Route (5.11c)
By: afh When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the upper 5.10 crack was similar in style and grade to 'On the Loose'. That is to say: Friggin' sweet.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Noonmark Mountain : Weissner Route (5.8)
By: afh When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony Goodwin mentioned that he had climbed it back in the day and thought it was "pretty hard for a 5.7". It gets a 5.8+ now and is still pretty stiff.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Return to Forever (5.9+)
By: afh When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pin is gone. Plenty of other protection possibilities.
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Location: ME : Katahdin : The Armadillo (5.7)
By: afh When: Dec 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome route. left my climbing shoes in the car by accident, lead the first pitch and a half in my sneakers. rangers didnt check our bags for helmets or a four inch piece despite what we were told. that being said, a helmet and a four inch piece are recommended regardless.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Madame Dubois Wild Ride (5.8+)
By: afh When: Dec 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: tricams are pretty helpful for protecting the last 20 feet on the arete. just pop 'em in the jugs. jugs doubling as protection, god i love acadia.
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : Where Eagles Dare (5.10d)
By: afh When: Dec 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt like the first pitch was 5.9+, skipped the second pitch, third pitch felt like 5.10b, so the crux pitch must be the second. Makes more sense to do wheaties instead of the second pitch anyways.
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : highlander (5.10b)
By: afh When: Dec 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: spectacular jug hauling on the first pitch followed by classic delicate face climbing on the second. one of the best routes at clifton. possible to break right at the first belay into witch wonder.
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : Bivy Route (5.9)
By: afh When: Dec 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: really dislike this route. awkward mantle after awkward mantle. that being said, it is one of the few well protected bolt lines at the grade at clifton.
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : The Eagle's Gift (5.9+)
By: afh When: Dec 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty uneventful climbing up until the roof, then pure glory. I don't know about 5.9+, no way near as hard as wheaties.
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