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Get down from there! <br /> <br />May 2013 <br />Photo by Duc


Member Since: Mar 5, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 14, 2014
Contact Aerili


Point Rank: # 219
Total Points: 2,400
Last Year: 364
Last 30 Days: 1
233 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1887 | Routes 19 | Areas 3 | Photos 352 | Page Improvments | Comments 405 | Posts 598 | Stars 440 | Ratings 70
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, Main Area : West Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Pretty much.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Eeyore's Enigma (5.10a) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Awesome. :))


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: Aerili When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Posting every move and placement you made on a route? Please, please . . . stop doing that.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Seven (5.8) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Actually, you sort of look like American Hustle.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Zen Garden : Mini Meditation (5.10c)
By: Aerili When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Very doable at the grade.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: Aerili When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Kellen, please don't TR a constantly-busy classic like this. It is just bad etiquette. Give your wife a chance to learn to clean gear and second long pitches and then take her up it. It will be a much better time for all.


Location: UT : Ibex
By: Aerili When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Really disappointed at the amount of trash I found on my latest trip. Most of it seemed concentrated around the Corral Crags. This leads me to believe it is probably coming from climbers. PACK IT OUT FER CHRISSAKES! You are right next to your damn car!


Location: UT : Ibex : Photo
By: Aerili When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Definitely captures the essence of this place!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Unknown R of Tube Steaks (5.10-)
By: Aerili When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: I personally wanted a #5 Camalot on this route for the (relatively) short, wide section. You can walk it a bit. If you anticipate this route to be a piece of cake, however, you probably won't need it.

I did not find the corner up higher to be "thin hands" but more like perfect golds.

I agree with Chris Archer on the top-out moves. Very awkward getting to the anchor and pretty hard.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Ivory Tower, Center (5.10a) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Love the clouds. Nicely framed!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: I think I would rather climb with the anchor-builder than the commenter here.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: All I can say is....damn.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Sierra Ancha Mountains : Photo
By: Aerili When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: It's been many years since I was there and I have no good beta for the exact location. This area would offer adventure climbing for sure, though...probably not for the faint of heart or hiking-averse.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : The Sickle (5.10c)
By: Aerili When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: You can also supplement protection with some .5 Camalots in the left-hand crack (sling em out).

I didn't find the size to become baggy golds til the top. The last 20-30 feet was also the crux for me, although the start is no give-away either.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : East Face (Sunflower Tower) (5.10+)
By: Aerili When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: I almost didn't bring the #4 but I was actually really glad to have it on pitch 1 and pitch 3.

I don't think we needed four purple Camalots at any time. I think three would be more than enough...even for the seamstresses out there. You should be more concerned about carrying extra greens.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Photo
By: Aerili When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: This is so great.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: Kevin, don't be daft!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: There is a vague impression that things are spinning like a vortex in this photo. It also appears that this view could have been captured looking vertically up OR vertically down OR dead straight horizontal.

Cool shot that seriously messes with the mind!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : God's Cave : Jedi Mind Tricks (M13) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: This is seriously stellar, son.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Basket Dome : Basket Case (5.11b) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: What a monster.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : The Enclosure : Listen to the Echo (5.10a)
By: Aerili When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: I think the first bolt is about 30 feet up near a large hueco. Then another decent space to the next bolt. I was not about to try leading it without a stick clip! Anyway, this beta may help you spot the route if you are so inclined.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Sand Dunes : Leopard Skin (5.7)
By: Aerili When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: If you have a 70 m rope, you can run the last two pitches together (make sure to sling everything long). It also makes the first rappel a lot more comfortable with a little extra rope.

The "new" pitch 1 variation (two bolts to a hand crack) was the best pitch of the route. A lot of variety-- but don't take it for granted. Extremely sandy and some awkward moves made it feel a little hard for the grade and particularly insecure at times. Take a #1, 2, & 3 plus a few small nuts and you'll be... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Aerili When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: I think it is hilarious that so many people call the squeeze chimney pitch "miserable". Think of it as a teaching tool. Even more demonic, I would suggest that this short, wide section adds to the all-around classic feel of this route.

So do it, then go to Yosemite Valley and tell me you aren't glad you did.

Edited to address Boissal's comment below: I think getting in the crack is a perfectly fine style to ascend....I definitely had half my body in there and it felt more secure on the sharp... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Nice!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : Pony Express (5.9)
By: Aerili When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I love that Mitchell Rhodes has apparently made an account only for posting useful spray comments. Too bad he doesn't realize there is a "ticks" feature on his profile.... :'''-(


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