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El Capitan and Yosemite Valley as seen from the base of Half Dome.


Member Since: May 9, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 30, 2014
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Point Rank: # 126
Total Points: 3,472
Last Year: 285
Last 30 Days: 0
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Aeon Aki been climbing?










Contributions


All 2296 | Routes 139 | Areas 15 | Photos 351 | Page Improvements | Comments 102 | Posts 7 | Stars 1301 | Ratings 381
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Area 51 : Phony Baloney (V6)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 25, 2007

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Comments: Use the ledge. Don't make this great problem an eliminate.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Ripcord (5.12a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: I would consider myself average height (5'10" with a 0" ape index), and nowhere on this route did I find a move that would be even close to requiring a dyno or a deadpoint. That said, what's the beta for the lunge? Which holds are "off"?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Isle of the Dead (5.10c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: If 5.10 is your limit, this will feel very hard. If you warm up on .10s, skip this one and do the next one to the right (Dead Again).


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : The Pollinator (5.12a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: If you send this thing, you're more than solid at .12a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Jolly Jug (5.12b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 2, 2007

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Comments: This thing would be super classic in the gym; very well-manufactured and burly!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 1, 2007

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Comments: "Overhung, powerful, and sustained."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Knappweed Herbacide (5.10d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 1, 2007

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Comments: P1 is 10a/b-ish, P2 goes at 13a-ish.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Piles of Trials (5.12b/c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 15, 2007

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Comments: Spectacular! Both versions seem perfectly legit to me, but the dyno (from the sharp flake left and the flaky sidepull right) is simply awesome. Pumpy before and after that too. Just a great sport climb.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Popular Demand (5.10c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 3, 2007

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Comments: This line would be much better if you didn't have to risk ground fall at the third bolt. Also, it felt like I was always climbing too far to one side of the bolts. If bolted better, this line could be as good as PMS and PMT.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Central Ridgeline, includin... : Ship's Prow Right (V1)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 26, 2007

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Comments: Is this problem supposed to be in between Finger Ripper and the Ship's Prow arete?


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Spillway/Camp 2
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 18, 2007

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Comments: Fair enough Stewart. Nevertheless, these boulders are awesome and people who come here to climb should know about them. As for the ratings, I have to put something in and I hope that the imaginary numbers we give to rocks are not the reason people would seek out such a place. If you want personal credit for any of the problems I have listed, just let me know. Cheers back at you.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Balance in Nature (V5)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 13, 2007

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Comments: The shorter your reach, the harder it gets....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Across (V0)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 13, 2007

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Comments: "Zero G" is the extended sit start to this problem.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nappy Dugout : Ivory Tower (5.11a)
By: Aeon Aki When: May 28, 2007

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Comments: Wandering left down low avoids the crux sequence of this route. Much better to climb as directly as possible, until the end where the juggy, right-trending crack seems necessary. Classic route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Road Sign Rock : Northwestern Overhang (a.k.... (V2)
By: Aeon Aki When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: A considerable amount of core tension is required to get off the ground, then heel hooks and a long arm span help to finish this deceiving little problem. Hard for V2 (hard for V3) but a really enjoyable boulder problem.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Dream On (5.11c/d)
By: Aeon Aki When: May 9, 2007

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Comments: After a decent rest, the crux sequence is very sustained: 5.11 holds but feels like 5.12 while maneuvering to get yourself into the correct position to make the holds work right. Nevertheless, it is a great place to practice taking some whippers. The first bolt you need to clip as you establish in the seam is very difficult to clip but the one below it makes it too far to skip to fall safely if you blow it.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Buoux Boulder : Tradesque (V4)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 30, 2007

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Comments: The difficuty of this problem is somewhere between V2 and V4 so don't let the inflated grade turn you away. This is a great boulder problem.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Anarchy : Pocket Rocket (V5)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 30, 2007

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Comments: This is a much more difficult dyno if the edge happens to be inconvenient and you're forced to use higher footholds. Don't overgrip on the starting pocket or you might find yourself short of some finger flesh.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Big Joe : Scary Monsters (V6)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 30, 2007

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Comments: There is a V4 that starts right of Scary Monsters and uses the right arete as well as a thin rail. Also pretty classic.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Buoux Boulder : Bowling Ball (V4)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 29, 2007

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Comments: This problem is actually on a separate boulder below the Buoux Boulder. Walk downhill and slightly right from Speed to locate it. Begin with your left hand in the three obvious monos and your right on the thin edge then go straight up. Classic!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Familiar Strangers (5.8)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 17, 2007

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Comments: If you have the gear, this is the most classic warm up line on the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Space Oddity (V0)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 9, 2007

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Comments: The crux of this problem is staying off the tree.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Tree Slab : Center or Regular Problem a... (V0)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 3, 2007

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Comments: This was the most classic line I found on my short tour along the cliff. Short but independent and allows you to top out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : South Warmup (V0)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 30, 2006

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Comments: Climbing the arete on the right seemed a little harder than the face and you can do both as individual problems without sharing any of the holds.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Horn's Mother (5.11a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 1, 2006

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Comments: I was the "foo" who had to lower and climb that nasty crux again, and again, and again...


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