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El Capitan and Yosemite Valley as seen from the base of Half Dome.


Member Since: May 9, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 3, 2014
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Point Rank: # 124
Total Points: 3,472
Last Year: 285
Last 30 Days: 0
48 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2295 | Routes 139 | Areas 15 | Photos 351 | Page Improvments | Comments 102 | Posts 6 | Stars 1301 | Ratings 381
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 15, 2008

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Comments: The hanger on the third bolt has been replaced. Send on....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Cornered Again (5.11a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 13, 2008

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Comments: The beginning of this route is hard which is almost unfortunate since the rest of this route (everything after the third bolt) is moderate and very enjoyable. Someone told me before I set off that it was chossy and had a lot of loose rock on it. At the top of the pillar you eventually stand upon, there are some chockstones and small pieces of loose rock; however, it is very obvious what and what not to pull on. Other than that, this route is bullet and if you can pull off an awkwar... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Melancholy Man (5.11b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 12, 2008

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Comments: After the roof this line continues up a short section of bad rock, and has a very large and very suspect flake on it. I avoided it completely after hear a discomforting echo ringing through the bowels of this block. Use it cautiously if you must.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Lovely to See You (5.12c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 12, 2008

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Comments: After you pull the roof, does this route move out left to link with the line of bolts, or does it continue straight up through the right facing flakes?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott ... (5.9)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 12, 2008

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Comments: This route is pretty dirty right now. The tricky crux at the third bolt may get easier after a few laps and will certainly become more enjoyable. I wouldn't have minded a bolt somewhere before the first one as stepping up to clip it is awkward and could be dangerous for a short leader hanging draws.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : East Inside Corner (V2)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 27, 2008

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Comments: The World's Hardest 5.8.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Sabrina (5.10a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 23, 2008

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Comments: This is an absolutely beautiful line on a very unique piece of stone. if your hands aren't gorilla sized, this is either a boxing match or a swimming exercise.

Does anyone know when whatever used to be in front of this crack fell off? It looks like a recent collapse.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Sudden Change (V5-6 PG13)
By: Aeon Aki When: Feb 29, 2008

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Comments: We did the problem you describe here last spring. Someone probably did it before we did. Either way, it is a pretty good line and I am surprised there is not more chalk on it. Nice addition to the site.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Three of a Kind Wall : The Face (V3)
By: Aeon Aki When: Feb 18, 2008

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Comments: Benningfield notes a "V6" to the right of "The Face" in Colorado Bouldering. Is he referring to the SDS to this problem or is there something in between "The Face" and "Round Pebble"?


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Hurl Jam (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 12, 2007

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Comments: The crux at the top that Matt describes is certainly the direct finish to this route. However I found that moving off to the right avoids this entire sequence and doesn't really feel "off-route." Avoiding the crux at the top in such a way makes this route significantly easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : No Doze (5.12c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: Possibly the most "comfortable" route ever. Almost every hold on this route seemed suspect to me, but it is what it is so enjoy it. To boycott it or complain about it would be to even further disrespect this poor piece of granite. Two enthusiastic thumbs up to the manufacturer...er...route setter... or whatever.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 14, 2007

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Comments: Descent Beta: 2 60m ropes tied together will get you to the ground from the spacious ledge above the chimney.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : The Perch (V6)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 11, 2007

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Comments: SDS seems contrived and are the good edges supposed to be "off"?


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : NW Arete - Warmup Boulder (V2)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 11, 2007

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Comments: This problem may be easier depending on where you start but for full value, start right of the arete in the flared, dihedral feature and move up and left gaining the arete. Tricky balance moves and slopey holds. Lots of fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: Though I wouldn't trust the cemented chain by itself, the fixed sling paired with it provided a safe rap to the ground. Maybe not necessary, but convenient nonetheless.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Mojo Rising (5.9)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 4, 2007

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Comments: This thing is a walk in the park- Central park- at 2 am.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Merry Men (5.11b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 4, 2007

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Comments: Devious climbing if you don't escape left to the right-trending rail at the bottom. The anchors seem straight up dangerous; too far apart, left one spins, and awkward to clip. Besides, this thing should pull the roof; it looks like it would go sub 5.12. Maybe some new anchors (does anyone even care)?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Men in Tights (5.10b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 4, 2007

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Comments: A good variety of climbing, and though the top looks chossy, it actually climbs very well.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : SW Face of The Warmup Bould... (V3-4)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 4, 2007

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Comments: Aka "Party Trick".


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 30, 2007

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Comments: My rope snagged as I pulled it which resulted in me having to climb up the chimney near Escalator to free it. Don't bother with the bolts, just throw your rope down and walk off. Maybe someone could paint them (read: remove them) so they're not completely hideous?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Party Dome
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 10, 2007

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Comments: The road is 700H, after the Nautilus a little way. Follow this road past the first pullout/campsite and trend right when it begins to "Y" Party Dome will be right in front of you when you are in the second parking lot.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Sore-O-Pod aka Spatial Juxt... (5.8)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 4, 2007

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Comments: This route is also known as "Spatial Juxtaposition".


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : The Spider's Den : Spiders and Snakes (5.12a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: 6 bolts + 2 anchors. Granted all of the moves on this thing may be 5.10 individually, this thing adds up to an extremely pumpy route when you link them all up. Get on it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Three of a Kind Wall
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 1, 2007

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Comments: What is the line left of "Round Pebble"? Starts sitting on a good flake then moves out right to crimpers and an obvious (and glued) right hand gaston then up to crimps and a tall, juggy topout. Felt like V5ish, does it have a name?


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Right Sign Area : Wills of Fire (V6)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 28, 2007

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Comments: Though the landing off to the right which consists of tree limbs and rocks looks intimidating, one never really falls in that area. This thing can be safely protected with one or two pads. That said, don't fall from the top.


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