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El Capitan and Yosemite Valley as seen from the base of Half Dome.


Member Since: May 9, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 30, 2014
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Point Rank: # 127
Total Points: 3,472
Last Year: 285
Last 30 Days: 0
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2296 | Routes 139 | Areas 15 | Photos 351 | Page Improvements | Comments 102 | Posts 7 | Stars 1301 | Ratings 381
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Return To Sender (5.12a/b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: My first try on Return to Sender left me with the following impression. P1 is 5.8 to a dirty corner that involves a somewhat dangerous "behind your back" clip that transitions you to the next slab after one or two steep moves on very questionable rock. From here, make easy moves on loose, dirty rock (careful not to pull anything down and kill somebody) and encounter one move of 5.11a followed by low angle 5.7 or 5.8 slab to the first set of anchors. P2 features a nice variety of "snappy" "hol... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Centennial (5.11c/d)
By: Aeon Aki When: May 6, 2009

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Comments: This route has cleaned up very nicely, and the upper pitch is among the best I've done at the Bowling Alley.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Next to Nothing (5.12b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 9, 2009

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Comments: The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good. Four stars without the second pitch.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : The Closet : Roll the Dice (V5)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: It seems like you can cheat this problem by moving either left or right after a few moves. The V5 line seems like it would avoid moving left or right and instead would move straight up the slab.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Smoking Pickle (5.12a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: This route climbs more like a bouldery V4 to an engaging and exposed 5.9 headwall, both classics in their own regards. It's almost a shame that the upper slab is gaurded by such a stout beginning. 5 stars!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Terrain Boulders : ... : Photo
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: Did he send?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Threshold Of A Dream (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 15, 2008

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Comments: A chossy, awkward pull over the initial roof to a very enjoyable slab/arete sequence to hold your breath watch where you step "hollow" sounding jug and flake pulling. If you've climbed everything else at Animal World then at least you have an excuse to get on it.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Affluenza (5.11c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: In his description Sean says, "When you reach the roof, your 55 feet of fun is over and it's time to lower"; however, instead of moving out left to finish at the Affluenza anchors, you can link into the top 2 clips of Whiteman's Burden for some extra, though a bit chossy, climbing.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : S.C.U.M. Mainfesto (5.11a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 15, 2008

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Comments: My bad Patrick, that's exactly what I thought. I'll put your draw back up next time I'm there (couple of weeks). But your advice is valid; don't leave just one draw on a route in Rifle, or else I'll nab it! Sorry.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Shady Deal (5.11c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: Solid at .11c if you factor in the multiple z-clip cruxes.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nappy Dugout : Kingfisher (5.12d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: Someone told me a hold broke on this route and it is now harder. This was the first time I'd been on it so I don't know for sure, but it certainly felt tough.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Thunder Point : Sunset Arete (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: As this route cleans up, it will get even better. Good moves, tricky beta, and a spectacular position. Perhaps a bit over-bolted and still a bit dirty but well worth it if you've climbed out the Oceanic Wall. Get on it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : East Crack (5.10b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 20, 2008

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Comments: As Chad's comment notes, it is easier to climb and protect this route by beginning left of the small dihedral. From there I traversed under the step roof and pulled over on the right getting back in line with East Edge. From there, instead of taking the pin-scarred crack, I climbed more or less straight up using a variety of cracks and edges. Certainly this is the line of least resistance on the left side of Cob Rock but watch what you pull on up there as there are numerous loose flakes that ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Heart of the Narrows (5.12c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: Patience young grass smoker. More info is on the way...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Pin Cushion (5.11c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: The sportiest way to clip the first bolt is with a stick.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 29, 2008

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Comments: FA: Jeff Achey and Kent Lugbill, Jan 1981. Royal Robbins is old, these guys would kick your ass (not that Royal Robbins wouldn't).


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 29, 2008

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Comments: Though short lived, the crux sequence felt every bit as hard as Sargasso Sea or Creatures from the Black Lagoon. It is thin with a puzzling sequence and is extremely friction dependent.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 18, 2008

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Comments: Perhaps it was the blazing sun mixed with greasy holds, the contrived nature of the climbing, the choss I had to navigate my way through, or the grid-bolted face I was looking up at, but this route left much to be desired. If this is the best rock in Clear Creek Canyon, I think I've seen enough. Bomb!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : Tijuana Crack Whore (5.10d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 16, 2008

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Comments: This route is given .10d in the Western Sloper.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : G3 : Malmsteen (5.10c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 16, 2008

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Comments: To avoid an unnecessary pump and perhaps a bit cussing and spitting, climb past the anchors to clip them. Other than that, this is one of the best 5.10s in the canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Traverse Ramp (V2)
By: Aeon Aki When: May 30, 2008

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Comments: The ramp higher, yet significantly easier than the finish to Cloud Shadow Traverse (V5) seems to be what this description is referring to.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Crack Boulder
By: Aeon Aki When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: The featured picture looked very similar to Buoux Crack so I referenced this area in the Utah Bouldering guide to check it out. I have never climbed any of these problems however nearly every route listed here for the Crack Boulder has a significantly different rating from what is published in the book. Beer Belly is given V5 while both the Hand and Fist Crack are given V3. Trim that Bush is given V0 and Dirt and Grime is given V1. Grade inflation is not really a big deal but to sandbag tall... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Ruby Slipper (5.11c)
By: Aeon Aki When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: FA Jeff Achey and Bill Hoadley. Bill Bradley was a basketball player.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : Southeast Slab (V0+)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 29, 2008

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Comments: Indeed, it is possible to climb on the other side of the corner and perhaps directly up the blunt arete as well. Benningfield describes the Southeast Slab as "a small slab four feet wide on the southeast corner". The line I featured in the photo seemed most obvious to me but try them all.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Tanks for the Hueco (5.10d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 28, 2008

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Comments: After gaining the ledge, you are risking ground fall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt. I guess the idea was that if you can pull 5.10+ lie-backing, an easy runout after that is no problem. Still, shit happens and this runout is completely unnecessary. Be prepared, especially if you pull through the crux as suggested above.


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