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 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jun 2, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 10, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,615
Total Points: 366
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has adrenalated been climbing?










Contributions


All 684 | Routes 21 | Areas 2 | Photos 8 | Page Improvments | Comments 86 | Posts 48 | Stars 354 | Ratings 165
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : 5.9 (5.9)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: I rarely say this, but I think this route would have been better if it ended at the ledge. The climbing above is not nearly as good IMO, either in the corner or on the arete.

Excellent warmup, though!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Pink Wall : Renounce Action (5.10a)
By: adrenalated When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: Shitty rock. Anchor still only has two quicklinks, which do not align properly and will twist your rope. Route is currently hard 5.10/low 5.11 but will probably change when (not if) more holds break.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Lake City Ice Park
By: adrenalated When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Thinking about swinging by here on the way home from Wolf Creek next weekend.

I've dabbled a bit, but I'm a rock climber, not an ice climber. So we're just looking to screw around on TR, no interest in leading ice. To set up TRs here... what do I need beyond normal anchor stuff? One rope, two? Sounds like tree anchors - how far back are the trees/how much webbing do I need to bring to set up anchors?

Thanks!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : 50 Yard Dash (5.10a)
By: adrenalated When: Aug 12, 2010

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Comments: I thought the first clip is fine. Just be careful. It's like 5.6 to get to a clipping position.
I was glad to have the cam up higher, however. #3 Friend works great.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : Prospector (5.9+)
By: adrenalated When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: My rule for climbing vegetation is if you can hit it on the way down, you can use it on the way up. That said, using the tree isn't really helpful on this particular climb.

Clearly I'm in the minority, but I thought this was one of the best sport 10a's I've done anywhere.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : Glory Hole (5.12a)
By: adrenalated When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: Great movement! Doesn't get 4 stars only because the natural line of holds kinda leads into Twin Flakes in the middle... it's possible to climb directly, but doing so probably adds a letter grade (and another crux).

It could use a rebolting though, the bolts (as with most on this wall) are looking a little tired.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : Twin Flakes (5.10b)
By: adrenalated When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: Finishing directly over the bulge at the last bolt is still 10b, is more fun, and avoids the possibility of a pendulum lead fall. Finishing around left of the bulge is probably safer for topropers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Face [Whale's Tail] (5.6 X)
By: adrenalated When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: I enjoyed this as a lead. Got more pro in than I expected to, but some of it was definitely marginal and there are definitely committing moves with ledge fall potential. Small gear only, I didn't use anything bigger than a 0.5 Friend. Master Cams work well.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: adrenalated When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: That last bit is pretty much 4th class anyway... no point in placing gear there and making rope drag even worse.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: adrenalated When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: So let's get this straight:
Mike Endicott, George Bracksieck, and Kevin Smyth climbed this in the late '70s. They may or may not have been the first to climb it. When they climbed it, it was likely loose/friable and generally not that good, so they didn't bother to record their ascent.

Later, Richard Wright and Tod Anderson came along, likely spent a LOT of time cleaning the crap rock off, and bolted it because, as far as they knew, nobody had ever climbed it, and it made a logical warmup cli... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Check Your Grip (5.12a)
By: adrenalated When: May 26, 2010

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Comments: 5 stars on a 4 star scale. Do this route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: adrenalated When: May 26, 2010

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Comments: My friend had his draws stolen off Anarchitect in the last few days.
Details here
Please get them back to him.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: adrenalated When: May 26, 2010

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Comments: My friend had his draws stolen off Anarchitect in the last few days.
Details here
Please get them back to him.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge
By: adrenalated When: Feb 9, 2010

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Comments: I believe you can still camp at Miguel's during the winter, but there's no water, bathrooms, or trash disposal. Fortunately, the rest area is not far away and has all those things. Don't quote me on that though.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: adrenalated When: Jan 3, 2010

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Comments: Thanks, Monty!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: adrenalated When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: The bolts are only 4' apart if you can't count.

Never seen bolts on bolts, except at anchors (and I do appreciate more than one bolt at those locations).

There are a few bolted cracks, but only because only a nutter would want to place gear in that limestone.

Shelf has hundreds of routes spread across many different cliffs... but certain ones tend to attract more people than others. You can always find solitude, and the somewhat remote location with no major roads makes Shelf feel more tranq... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge
By: adrenalated When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: Thanks sax! Big improvement for sure.
I still think it should just follow the guidebook method (Gray's Branch, Upper, Middle and Lower Gorge, etc) but this works fine too.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7) : Photo (Copy)
By: adrenalated When: Oct 27, 2009

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Comments: I did it the way you describe, Matt. This is definitely NOT the best way, much better to traverse low, although it looks more improbable at first.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Toker (5.11a)
By: adrenalated When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: Thuggish start makes this maybe not the best warmup.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Tectonic Wall : Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky (5.10b)
By: adrenalated When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: Nearly every route has groundfall potential if you blow the 2nd or 3rd clip, especially if you clip from too low. Although counter-intuitive, it's generally better to clip high because it minimizes the amount of slack out. This one is very closely bolted in my opinion - much more so than most routes in the Red.

All that said... this is a great route with fun moves on clean rock!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Tectonic Wall : Plate Tectonics (5.9+)
By: adrenalated When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: The first few moves are greasy and sequential enough to call 5.10a. The overhanging plate haul at the top is a blast!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Indy wall : Makin' Bacon (5.10d)
By: adrenalated When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: Not really technical. Just crimp, step, repeat. Some holds are a bit tweaky if your fingers are larger.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag (CLOSED) : Up Yonder (5.11b)
By: adrenalated When: Oct 15, 2009

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Comments: Super fun. Avoid stemming the dihedral for full value.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Hangman (5.12b)
By: adrenalated When: Sep 26, 2009

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Comments: Supposedly a hold broke on this in the roof, upping the grade substantially?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : City Slickers (5.12a)
By: adrenalated When: Sep 26, 2009

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Comments: I have no idea why Mabe's guidebook gives this no stars. I've climbed plenty of zero star routes, and this is definitely not one of them. Other than the awkward mantle at the start, the moves are really fun and the rock is great. Well worth doing despite the short length.


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