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Location: International : Virgin Gorda, BVI
By: Adam Catalano When: Jul 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not much of a change in seasons. Winter-Summer - 10-15 degrees maybe. Had a friend who went down in August and found 100 degree days but that is very abnormal. What I would watch out for in planning a late summer/fall trip would be hurricane season.
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Location: International : Virgin Gorda, BVI : Devil's Bay : Added Value (V3)
By: Adam Catalano When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had no idea of the rating but thought it would be a good one to work, so I searched it out after seeing it in "Unreal", but disappointingly sent it second try and moved on.
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Location: International : Virgin Gorda, BVI
By: Adam Catalano When: Jan 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What I placed up here is just barely a taste of the area's potential. MANY MANY others have done far greater things. These are just the easiest to find projects. I'm guessing people were keeping VG a secret by not posting it earlier. However, with Ivan Greene's video now out, it is no longer a hidden gem.
I went in June of 08 and the temps were 85 highs and 75 lows. It is pretty much in this range all year. I'm going back again this spring. It is THAT GOOD.
There may be other names to these rout... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Pete's Farewell (5.7)
By: Adam Catalano When: Apr 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Serious about the bigger cams. You're looking at a HUGE swing onto your belayer before you get that first #4 in. I just had one with me and it was pretty exciting sliding it up as I went before I could throw in something in the #2 range.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Continuum (5.8+)
By: Adam Catalano When: Apr 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had no problem with other 5.8s and 5.9s in the park this week, but WHAT THE HECK. This thing was such an awkward lead for me. I admit, I'm not proficient at angling crack climbs. Ate quite a bit of humble pie, as it took me about four or five hangs to get up this. Felt like I was just draging my legs up through that right hand turn.
Led Invisibility Lessons next...easily. Huh?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: Adam Catalano When: Mar 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Making one more move up on small crimps can get your feet above the polished crux and make the two move traverse right a bit easier. Doesn't make crux gear any better, just avoids the polished feet spot.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Adam Catalano When: Mar 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was much easier than some of the other 5.8s at the Gunks. I think Modern Times, Double Crack, Son of Easy O and Pas De Deux are all much tougher.
The gear is abundant, the climbing is super fun. I think the route is a new favorite of mine, albeit overrated at 5.8+.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Wilmington Notch - High Fal... : Multiplication Gully (WI3+)
By: Adam Catalano When: Mar 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not fun to follow another party up. An inexperienced climber will rain ice chunks down the narrow chute. Only time I've ever been bloodied. Be the first there in the morning or just wait for the party ahead to rap down.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Clip a Dee Doo Dah (5.3)
By: Adam Catalano When: Feb 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun Simul-climb. Climb with your partner, with about 30' of rope between you, leader clips while second unclips. Up and down in 30 minutes
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Sente (5.9)
By: Adam Catalano When: Jul 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you've done this route a few years ago the bolts were pretty mank. I hear the bolts were replaced recently; can anyone confirm?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Jackie (5.5)
By: Adam Catalano When: Jul 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love to finish this climb with various second pitches. You can go right and do P2 of Classic, or straight up through the bulge is fun too, or left a bit for the traditional finish. All are easy and fun.
Second pitches in the Gunks are where the fun and adventure come into play. Try wandering a little bit. It may be dirty but you can always downclimb if you don't like what you see.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Apoplexy (5.9)
By: Adam Catalano When: Jul 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar route. I didn't feel that the the opening face was too sketchy. There is one flake of question, and if you can put very little pressure on it and climb on through with confidence, you're fine. Incredible route.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Directississima (5.10b)
By: Adam Catalano When: Jun 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredible route, but PUMPY. Great gear can be had just about everywhere, if you're willing to sacrifice a potentially greater pump. I felt the bulge just off the belay ledge was the crux of the climb. The small roof had very decent holds all through it. The difficulty was that I was pretty pumped by the time I got to it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Directissima (5.9)
By: Adam Catalano When: Jun 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: To be assured of less rope drag, one can (as the Williams guide book describes) do a short traverse pitch from the top of pitch one to a small perch on the arete. That traverse pitch is the only 5.9 section.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Son of Easy O (5.8)
By: Adam Catalano When: May 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredible climbing. The first pitch can feel pretty spicy down low. The second pitch is a great jug haul through roofs, much easier roofs than Modern Times. Continuing all the way to the top is my preference, because I'm not crazy about that old two-pin belay station. I don't think you can run it top to bottom in one pitch though. You'd have to stop at the big ledge if you were to go all the way to the top. Rap off Frog's Head bolts to the right.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: Adam Catalano When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The roofs seemed much easier the second time. A) Because I was following this time and B) because I used the killer undercling to reach over the first/largest roof. Gaining the final ledge is the crux for me, as the flakes in front of you are super loose (like don't grab them at all) and it requires a high right foot and SCARY manteling, with huge swing potential.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Double Crack (5.8)
By: Adam Catalano When: May 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW! Amazingly sustained. No move is harder than 5.8, but no move is easier than 5.7. I used every draw, sling and spare biner I had on me (even my prussik cord). Lots of medium to large cams, up to #4, maybe even #4.5. No real small cams needed. Milk the rests on the ledge and in alcoves, cause it's all vertical.
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Location: Mountain Project Bouldering...
By: Adam Catalano When: May 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: 25 tries, but by 15 you know all the moves. That's what makes it frustrating.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Moonlight (5.6)
By: Adam Catalano When: Apr 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely a classic climb. Tops High E in my opinion. Stay low through the crux. The crux arete move is a good distance from your last piece, so keep your head about you.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles In The Sky : Bird of Fire (5.10a)
By: Adam Catalano When: Apr 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Instant Classic in my book. Just spent a week in JTree and this route definitely topped the list. Can't wait to go back next year and do it again.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - East Side : Effigy Too (5.10a/b)
By: Adam Catalano When: Apr 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing start. Bouldery but not too difficult. We found you can protect the crux pretty well with a #2 stopper. Once you get to the prominent crack feature, its just fun cruisin' from there.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Classic (5.7)
By: Adam Catalano When: Apr 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great (and challenging) variation to this is Classy 5.8. It climbs the crack to the right and traverses left under the roof. Pull through the roof right of the tree.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Ribs (5.4)
By: Adam Catalano When: Apr 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb goes straight up a rappel highway. Wear a helmet. The ledges above have loose rock and even a soft rope can hurt when it's tossed from 100'. Just ask my wife...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Funny Face (5.5)
By: Adam Catalano When: Apr 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Decent route if you're looking for a little adventure feel. Kind of dirty, no chalk highway, no fixed pro, tenuous flakes. Aside from first 10', climb is very much in your favor (either straight up or less than vertical). Good to try on a busy weekend day when all the popular routes have waiting lines.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Three Pines (5.3)
By: Adam Catalano When: Mar 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route tends to close for much of the summer due to Peregrine nesting on the ledge atop pitch 2. There is already signs of frequent bird activity as of March 27, 2006, so bag it soon if you're interested. FYI - Something Interesting also closes because it uses the same ledge and rap station.
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