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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: adam brink When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spring and Fall usually. Summer is usually too hot and winter too cold, though if you're a local you can find days anytime to climb.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: adam brink When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have beta on the University Wall? Thanks!
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Location: Niccole : Monkey Traverse : Photo
By: adam brink When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Huh... is she really climbing this way...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: adam brink When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar climbing that seems to go on forever! This must have been 100 feet to the anchors and none of it boring. While this might be R rated for the first thirty feet (and it's only 5.7 there), after that it is safe with only the chance for a long, clean fall. Another Eldo gem.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Goodbye Cruel World (5.12-)
By: adam brink When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Totally amazing climb. You will learn if you have your first knuckle layback technique down or not.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Square Rock : Crack (5.11c)
By: adam brink When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! This is stout for 11c and would be a very proud onsight. Thought it is short (only 12 or 13 moves), it packs a big punch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Unbroken Chain (5.11c X)
By: adam brink When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott, I'm so sorry man! I guess I was wrong about that flake and gear. Did you fall from very far above the flake? My thoughts are with you and I hope you have a fast recovery. That route is now probably a lot harder and way more dangerous.
peace,
adam
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: adam brink When: Mar 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The caption should read "Devan Johnson onsighting the first pitch of The Naked Edge, off the couch, with no Eldo climbing in God knows how long."
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Location: International : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Stanage Edge : ... : Deliverance (V8)
By: adam brink When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the world's great dyno problems. Watch the old school "One Summer in the Peak" and see Sean Myles totally school this. If John Gill had visited the Peak he would have drooled over this problem.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12a PG13)
By: adam brink When: Feb 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay, I have to ask... onions?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: adam brink When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will gladly do the application if someone would help me with the bolting. I've never put one in and would like help to do it right. Any volunteers?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: adam brink When: Feb 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to second Steve on the idea of an anchor at the top of Sidewall and False Prophet. The tree is good enough, but someday it will go so why not take stress off of it and put in an anchor six inches below?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: adam brink When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well done but I'm afraid the onsight doesn't count if your name is Hank Caylor. It's an unfair advantage.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: adam brink When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sandbaggers! Onsighting this in good style (placing all of your own gear) would be well proud and stout. Even if you used the fixed gear, it would be a very challenging onsight as it's hard to recover from any mistakes at this angle. How many people have actually onsighted this?
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Location: tbol : Aid Crack : Photo
By: adam brink When: Jan 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's the name of this crack and where is it? Thanks!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: adam brink When: Jan 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know about the route Limits of Power that Randy mentioned? Thanks!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Camouflage (5.12b)
By: adam brink When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the hardest slab route around Boulder? It sure feels super stout and sustained for the grade. Any of you slabmasters out there have a recommendation for other hard slab routes? Thanks!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Veil
By: adam brink When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone done Way Honed and Gnarly? Could you comment on it if you did? Is the pro as bad as it used to be or does modern gear help out?
Thanks!
Adam
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northwest Face : Wherever I May Roam (5.9)
By: adam brink When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "TONS of bolts (the way sport climbing ought to be)"
if you don't get crap for that comment then the Smith locals have gone soft since I was last there...
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : John's Tower
By: adam brink When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is John's Tower located? There is no approach description here!
Thanks
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Atlas Shrugged (5.11d R) : Photo
By: adam brink When: Sep 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you look closely, you'll see that the gear on his rack is hanging pretty much straight down, which means that the photo is true to the angle of the climb. The second half of the climb is definitely steeper than vertical.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12a PG13)
By: adam brink When: Aug 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe it's just another case of routes feeling different to different people. I sent both Arms and Spoils in a couple days of work while Never A Dull Moment is still spanking me. Never A Dull Moment (slab linked into crack as one pitch) feels miles harder than any 12a or b trad I have done anywhere in the Front Range.
Grade discussion aside (as it is a rather silly dicussion in the first place), this is one stellar chunk of granite with beautiful movement, excellent rock and continiously d... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12a PG13)
By: adam brink When: Aug 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Ted,
I think I might be getting weak and old, that's all. To do the slab and crack as one pitch with no falls took me about 5 days of work (and that's on toprope!). It's one challenging pitch. I think it is at least as hard as The Evictor. Maybe someone who has led it recently could correct me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12a PG13)
By: adam brink When: Aug 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Shuman,
Good job on sending this rig! Did you really think the 1st pitch traverse was 12a? I've climbed a lot of slab routes and that is one of the most technical bits of climbing I have ever tried. It is at least 12a/b:)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab
By: adam brink When: Jul 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the new route to the right of Boys with Power Toys done yet? Any idea on difficulty and quality? It looks to be one of the best sweeps of stone up there and spanker hard. Thanks for the work!
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