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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a) By: Adam Sanders When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went back out there today, and those same draws were still up (over 2 weeks now). No hard feelings, but as I mentioned before, this wall is admired by WAY more walkers, etc. than climbers. I clipped all the draws together and tucked them on the sheltered ledge right above the anchors. They are near impossible to see from the road but pretty obvious to a topping out climber. Everyone who does not own them - please leave them be until the owner has a chance to pick them up, just like yo... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Pocket Hercules (5.11d) By: Adam Sanders When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this route! It's a bit more logistically annoying, but it's part the experience, I guess. I recommend lots in the 0.75 Camalot size if you're thinking you might hang some (in the neighborhood of 7 is actually a good idea). It's pumpy! I also found the 3 smallest TCUs nice for the start, but there are other options.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a) By: Adam Sanders When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There were draws left on this for at least a few days recently. This is really not the best place to leave gear hanging, as there is about 200 times the nature walker/fisherman traffic as there are climbers. I have no problem with leaving draws up your proj for a bit, but it's best to use discretion. Maybe the folks that left them up didn't realize just how popular the road/trails are for walking, etc. Let's all make sure this place never has any access issues. It's a real gem. Have fun out ther... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+) By: Adam Sanders When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I placed a number 1 Ball Nut and a small cam (blue Alien) in the pin scar. I didn't have a lot of time to inspect, but the ballnut seemed pretty slammer. A number 2 might work a little higher in the pin scarred section. I expected the pitch to feel a lot scarier than it ended up being. It sure is a spectacular pitch!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a) By: Adam Sanders When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't need a number 4 for this climb. You could probably do without the 2nd number 3 as well. Big comfy ledges at most belays and lots of sun - this climb is loads of fun.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : The Klettergarden By: Adam Sanders When: Jul 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can you camp here? If not, is there any good camping nearby? Maybe something away fom road noise and other campsites?? Thanks
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock By: Adam Sanders When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What aspect does Bob's Rock face? Looking for some shady climbing in the BV/Salida area....
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo By: Adam Sanders When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: you lucky. carly owes me a squamish trip. this popped up on the homepage today, fyi.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 C1) By: Adam Sanders When: Dec 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can someone give me an idea of what the grade would be if you aided pretty much all that you could? What is the hardest mandatory free climbing, keeping the aid grade at about C2?
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