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Member Since: Aug 14, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 1,600
Total Points: 383
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ac been climbing?










Contributions


All 318 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 218 | Posts | Stars 56 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: ac When: May 3, 2004

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Comments: The question was posed -- why no routes in the Front Range 14b or harder since 1999 -- seems to me it's a numbers game. There are probably less than 10 climbers in the Front Range that redpoint 14 b/c or higher, and how many of those 10 climbers are new route developers? There are certainly some Front Range Teenagers cranking the V equivalent, but they are not typically into putting up new routes -- they would rather find new bouldering problems. The rock would lend itself to that grade in C... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : Fuck You Finger (V11)
By: ac When: Apr 29, 2004

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Comments: If AC knew Peter Beal, he would know he is NOT working this problem from a TRUE sit-start solely for the #. Admittedly, he asked what other people think, but couldn't you just say its contrived and leave it at that?

Plenty of us think "complicated" contrived variations are fun, me included.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: ac When: Apr 22, 2004

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Comments: I think it should be pointed out that Erickson originally rated this route 9+. I think what Alan Nelson refers to as the "Valley Daze" is the trick for this one. Most climbers in Boulder are not so great at pure cracks as we don't have any. A few months at the Creek or in the Ditch will make this route feel easier.

An anchor on this route will not pass. I say pull the pin and stuck cordalette. If anyone needs to bail, they'll just leave some booty for us. It is also possible from the top of pit... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Shelf Road Virgin (5.10a)
By: ac When: Apr 20, 2004

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Comments: Matt, in Bob's defense, this route is not at the Bank... it's at the Dark Side.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: Apr 19, 2004

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Comments: The Palace is a newish sport area with about 50 routes in a concentrated area up the Poudre. Parking is located about 15 miles up river from Ted's Place (jct of Hwy 14 and Hwy 287). Park in the large pullout just past the tunnel. Go across the river (sometimes too high to cross in the Spring) and follow good trail for 5 minutes. Guidebook should be available locally sometime in late April 2004.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Fortress of Solitude : West Wall: Pummeling Sector... : Repulsion (5.12c)
By: ac When: Apr 16, 2004

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Comments: Hey Matt:

Are you guys using the Powers 5-piece zinc plated bolts or the Fixe SS wedge bolts for the news routes here? Is there much seepage in the limestone at the Fortress?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 PG13)
By: ac When: Apr 15, 2004

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Comments: What Fantasy Ridge probably deserves is a PG-13 rating. It's not a complete sew-up, and it can get minorly spooky, but it's no R route. The R rating would only scare off people from trying a very nice route that is quite safe if you're capable of climbing this grade.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Mental Block Traverse (V9)
By: ac When: Apr 15, 2004

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Comments: How is the R-L way harder? Is the north face section more difficult? Seems like starting on the Pinch and moving left would be easier because it eliminates the crux of doing Pinch Overhang at the end of the traverse. I've tried the R-L version but only went as far as Standard before topping out. That version is awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+)
By: ac When: Apr 1, 2004

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Comments: Clean it during the winter...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: ac When: Apr 1, 2004

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Comments: The pins are just fine.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Killer Fish Taco (5.11b)
By: ac When: Mar 31, 2004

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Comments: Go to the page for "The Fix" and you will see that several experienced climbers/route developers came to the same conclusion regarding the modified nature of that route. Greaser, if you are so sure that your assertion is correct, why don't you set the record straight on that page.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Bog : Castaway (V12)
By: ac When: Mar 30, 2004

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Comments: Don't bother adding routes to the database if you are going to add such poor descriptions,


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Cattle Prod (5.11a)
By: ac When: Mar 25, 2004

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Comments: Richard, you posted this route as a 0 star bomb but your route description calls it "interesting"? I think maybe you hit the wrong quality rating when you posted?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+)
By: ac When: Mar 23, 2004

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Comments: Wearing a helmet...good idea. Being careful not to cause rock fall...better idea.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: ac When: Mar 23, 2004

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Comments: Just wanted to comment that the hike in from upstream is not that bad. The tyrolean is often missing or rigged too loose so I've often opted for the hike.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Purity Control (V10)
By: ac When: Mar 23, 2004

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Comments: No, there's no "controversy" about the Millenium Boulder that I know of. Seems that people just haven't posted all the problems on this site yet. Check out CO Bouldering Vol 2 by Benningfield for more route descriptions and grades.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff
By: ac When: Mar 9, 2004

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Comments: Were the ticketed cars in the pullout or on the road? I've always assumed that the cars in the pullout were legit while the other cars who parked on the road were breaking the rules.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Christine's Dream (5.12)
By: ac When: Feb 19, 2004

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Comments: Taking a photo of yourself is simple. Phil just forgot who took it or where he got it, so he just entered his own name. In a book, they would label the photo "Phil Broscovak collection" but here we ain't so subtle.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux
By: ac When: Feb 10, 2004

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Comments: Rick Spoot speaks the truth about the chipping on those boulders at New Castle. Unfortunately he writes like he's in 4th...no wait...3rd grade, so no one takes him seriously.

Spooty, if there is extensive chipping going on at these crags then go ahead and name names. And stop using this brain-damaged persona to discuss these important issues.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: ac When: Jan 29, 2004

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Comments: Too bad Herman G. stooped to those levels. The guy is a good climber so I don't know why he bothered with chipping. Thanks for the info, Bob.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: ac When: Jan 29, 2004

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Comments: it seems this was going on over here and then polite banter stopped and all was quiet.....texasclimbers.com/cgi-texascli...


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Winter Warmer (5.10d)
By: ac When: Jan 29, 2004

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Comments: 11a (at the start only) -- rest is sustained but no move harder than 10a/b


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: ac When: Jan 29, 2004

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Comments: Unfortunate to hear Herman Gollner chipped these pockets. A little hard to believe on a 12c because he runs laps on 13c at Rifle. He's anything but fat. More of a ripped human specimen. They don't call him the Herminator for nothing. But maybe this all happened before he was that strong. Does anyone have any more details on this chipping incident? When it happened, etc?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mount of the Holy Cross : Holy Cross Couloir
By: ac When: Dec 31, 2003

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Comments: If anyone does boulder in that area (or any alpine area), please leave the chalk at home. Big chalk marks all over boulders surrounding a pristine alpine lake is an outrage to other wilderness users. If you are scrambling up into some talus, that's one thing. But chalking up boulders right next to beautiful obvious camping and fishing areas is obnoxious. I've seen that going on recently in the Mt. Evans wilderness. Pretty repulsive. Yes, yes, I'm a climber, of course, and I use chalk, but ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge
By: ac When: Dec 12, 2003

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Comments: Climbed in the Gorge on Wednesday the 10th, just after the fresh snowfall. We took the shortcut from the parking lot and broke trail the entire way. If you're smart you'll stick to the main trail or ski in. Mixed Feelings is in, with ice touching the top most pin. Bring short screws. No ice on blade runner yet and Crystal Meth looks good.


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