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Member Since: Aug 14, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
Contact ac


Point Rank: # 1,570
Total Points: 383
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ac been climbing?










Contributions


All 318 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 218 | Posts | Stars 56 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : In Your Face (5.12d)
By: ac When: Jun 27, 2005

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Comments: I disagree that this is a "boulderer's route". This is all about power endurance, and climbing efficiently enough to have juice for the final move (crux). I think its only a V3ish crux, which most people who get on this route will quickly figure out, but it is very low percentage when pumped.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Body Tremors (5.8+ PG13)
By: ac When: Jun 25, 2005

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Comments: The people suggesting that this is a "reasonable" route for the 5.8 leader are full of boston baked beans.

George Bell's comments are right on the money.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.12a)
By: ac When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: One of the best 12a's in the Canyon... climbs kind of like limestone.3 stars when combined with That's Weak. Just wish the meat were longer. A 60m rope will just get you back to the ground with a little shenanigans... definitely keep a knot in the end though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: I got on the 3rd pitch of this the other day, and I would have to say that it is considerably more difficult than the supposed route crux on the 2nd pitch. However, there is a fairly sizeable scar between the 1st and 2nd bolts which may have once been a fairly crucial hold. The pitch was also unchalked, licheny, and somewhat flakey making me wonder how many ascents its seen. Watch out below if someone is on this pitch: I dislodged a credit card sized flake which nearly hit a party below. Com... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Birthday Suit (5.10a)
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it.

Cheers,


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Silver Glide (5.11)
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it.

Cheers,


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: ac When: Jun 21, 2005

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Comments: Thanks for the responses re: rapping from Surette. Lazily, I was thinking we could just bring 1 cord up any of the routes, then do the first 70' rap on RM, then rap single line 200' to the ground, attach another cord for the second, etc. thereby avoiding the need to bring a trail line?

Beautiful wall, very cool routes. Thanks again.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: ac When: Jun 20, 2005

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Comments: Which rap route is better down from Surette ledge: Gneiss Route or Rocketman? Any thoughts?

Thanks


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Evictor (5.12c R)
By: ac When: Jun 14, 2005

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Comments: FWIW, this route has seen at least a dozen redpoints over the past year or two, many by non-5.13 climbers. Not sure if that adds anything to the grade debate or not, but it does update some of the information in the description


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Mr. Mistoffeles (5.9)
By: ac When: Jun 14, 2005

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Comments: Cool route. Led it only clipping 1 bolt, seam takes good gear.


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Oak Creek Canyon : Tanner Dome : Amp Right (5.10)
By: ac When: Jun 12, 2005

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Comments: What an exquisite route description! The detail and thoroughness goes above and beyond all expectations. I especially enjoyed the well-researched and humorous section regarding the interesting history of this route. Certainly, a 5-star addition to the climbingboulder database. Bravo, lads!! Bravo!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Evictor (5.12c R)
By: ac When: Jun 9, 2005

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Comments: As I lack the guts to uprate a route under my real name, I'm posting under the honorable title of AC. I have to call sandbagging for who ever said this is 12c on lead, placing gear. Maybe 12c on toprope. This thing is 12d placing gear and hard at the grade. If you have led it in good style, please feel free to correct me.

And now for the sameless spraying for my buddy Ted Lanzano (as he won't do it himself). He crushed this on lead yesterday. The last stopper he was too pumped to place pr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
By: ac When: Jun 8, 2005

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Comments: Mine Hole Crag, it is on this site.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: ac When: Jun 6, 2005

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Comments: Any beta for the crux moves? From the slopey rail, it seems like a monsterous move to a jug. Any trickery here? The crux is difficult to work, since you end up taking repeated sizeable whippers while trying things out.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir
By: ac When: Apr 28, 2005

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Comments: BZD ... unless it's a wallet or a very expensive camera, why don't you just leave it there. Picking up someone's stuff they accidentally left behind is not cool. You know, most people come back for things that they leave behind (sunglasses/chalkbag/shoes/keys/etc.)

Just cause someone forgets something does not make it booty. A post on cb.com that ends up in the side comments for Horsetooth is unlikely to be read by more than a handful of us who regularly read the recent comments. cb.com is purp... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: ac When: Apr 24, 2005

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Comments: This route is in the 5.10 to 11a range only to internet spraylords and the hopelessly insecure. Definitely not Rifle or Eldo 11c/d, but pretty consistent with most modern sport ratings.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: ac When: Mar 25, 2005

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Comments: He must be a strong, well-balanced individual who can accept criticism.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: ac When: Mar 17, 2005

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Comments: Ken, as stated before, there were NO sport climbing areas in the US in 1978, and bolt proliferation was hardly an issue as well. Ken, your story regarding your background and experience has undermined your credibility to say the least. Fortunately, you can still be a success in the world without credibility on this website.

It's safe to say a lot of us will be tuning your contributions out from here on out. Thanks for playing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: ac When: Mar 15, 2005

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Comments: D'Antonio-bashing has almost become an art form. Disguising your anti-bolt proliferation philosophy by making a retrobolt argument is pathetic. If you're going to say things like that, you better be willing to stand up and say who, what, when, where, how, etc.

Bob has committed to take the bolts out if you do. So do it ... if you can. If you can't, STFU.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: ac When: Mar 14, 2005

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Comments: Actions speak louder than words, add a wrench to your trad rack and stop posting about it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Le Nouveau Riche (5.10b PG13)
By: ac When: Feb 28, 2005

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Comments: This route is as it should be. It is perfectly bolted.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: ac When: Feb 28, 2005

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Comments: This route is pretty good, thanks for the work.

I would not rate this as a potential classic.

The climbing is not sustained at the grade. There are loose blocks and sections of lower grade rock. Pitch 2 is short and ends abruptly in a strange spot.

Slabberific, climb it once and maybe twice.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: ac When: Feb 24, 2005

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Comments: Does anybody know what the name of this Dan Hare (?) route is?

Also: perhaps this discussion is (long?) dead, but I'd add another vote for *not* adding more bolts.

I appreciate Peter Beal's perspective (the D'Antonio-esque access-for-all ideology, which is great if that's how you want to put up routes), but I tend to agree with the personal responsibility argument.

"rant" Pro opportunities are a fundamental part of *every* climb, sport or no. Suss things out for yourself, make decisions for y... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Alcatraz (M11)
By: ac When: Feb 17, 2005

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Comments: Will Gadd downgraded this from M14 to M11; he did say it is a fantastic route though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Drugs (5.11b)
By: ac When: Feb 15, 2005

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Comments: Greg:

Can you please give us specifics on the hardware that was placed: Fixe bolts or Powers bolts, what size 3/8 or 1/2, stainless or plated steel, hangers (fixe, metolius, or petzl) etc.???

Thanks,

Rob Palmer


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