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Member Since: Aug 14, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
Contact ac


Point Rank: # 1,503
Total Points: 383
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has ac been climbing?










Contributions


All (318) | Routes (12) | Areas (2) | Photos (3) | Comments (218) | Posts | Stars (56) | Ratings (27)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Helicopter (V5)
By: ac When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: Young Doug...the above photo of Adam appears that he is on what Rufus calls "Flaiming Arrow" (Direct start from underneath) and is V6. the start back to the left where the larger holds are, and traversing out the bench/ramp is V4. As if anyone really cares..


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Helicopter (V5)
By: ac When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: Young Doug...Actually I believe that John Sherman considers this benchmark at V4. I'm not trying to belittle anyone here..I consider this V4, especially if Missle is only V5... Hmmm The fall, winter, and spring are the best time to come up there..The place really can be pretty when the leaves turn across the road there, and one last thing..to he who oiled the holds I have a question..are you deliberately trying to piss me off?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Supernatural (5.11a)
By: ac When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: Young Doug...[Didn't] know the name when we did it. Thought it to be .10c/d-ish. Maybe my ape-index helps, but certainly there are no moves here that would be considered .11a..again, I must consider other benchmark routes at the grade. I am not a cutting-edge climber, but have 20+ years climbing in the Boulder area. I say that to lend some credentials to my stance on the grades. I would say this is a nice pitch, and well worth doing if you are up there..after all Boulder Canyon is a lot about qu... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: ac When: Sep 22, 2005

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Comments: Clarity and Logic? Please explain what is not clear or logical. If I were up there looking for property to buy, I would be worried about dirt bag camping on land adjacent to the road. I don't know too many real forest service camping areas that are like this. Typically the informal areas such as this eventually get closed down. This will be accelerated with new land owners. Climbers and should realize this and be proactive not just use it until it is taken away then whine. Keeping the are... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nostril Cave : Yellowcard (5.13d)
By: ac When: Sep 21, 2005

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Comments: what about the Naked Edge? there has been plenty of rock manufacturing on it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: ac When: Sep 19, 2005

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Comments: There are a lot of lots for sale in this area, I suspect the camping will become more of an issue in the future. It's only a matter of time before it's no camping. So, abuse it while it lasts? Not a good idea, but historically, I think this is how it goes down. Hopefully, there will still be parking after the (new) homeowners get really pissed off.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: ac When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: Ban camping here, before the campers give the climbers a bad name.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse
By: ac When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: Time for some of those large toothed bear traps?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12c)
By: ac When: Sep 11, 2005

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Comments: [Let's] see......Chris Hill (First Ascent of Wide Gauge)- _Kudos for the free ascent_Bernard [Gillett] (FA of WG)-_I've got no problem with Eli rating it A1......Looks like a neat free climb, nice job_

Stop Chris...Stop...[Can't] you see the horse is dead.

Now...back to my armchair.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12c)
By: ac When: Sep 2, 2005

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Comments: Site administrators -- don't let the vocal minority dissuade you. There are plenty of other web sites for wankers to spew. Any comment containing personal attacks should be deleted in its entirety. It shouldn't be your job to worry about. This site was good in the beginning, got pretty bad for a while, but you guys are doing a good job of turning it around. Thanks!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12c)
By: ac When: Sep 1, 2005

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Comments: Editing? More like complete evisceration....

The benevolent dictator has spoken.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12c)
By: ac When: Aug 31, 2005

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Comments: Charles, Spanky's comment was a personal attack and the majority of it was not relevant. He had two un-supported and slanderous comments towards the same person. They were both blatant attempts to revive a petty war that has been dead for sometime. As for the editing.......CB.com has lost its soul. It is a PC automaton.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: ac When: Aug 30, 2005

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Comments: My partner and I did this route a few years back. Did not realize it had only a first ascent. Gear at the end is strongly recommended! We took some killer falls onto the tree below. Hard moves over the roof and sustained slab moves up the arete. Nice to hear it was 12d and not us climbing so poorly!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Road Warrior (5.12d)
By: ac When: Aug 29, 2005

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Comments: The bolt at the crux is in a weird location, as if Alan had intended to push the crux through the flakes above the bolt. The traverse seems like the only reasonable, although very hard/slabby/techy, option. The bolt is in a weird place for this (like almost behind your head) and the fall could twist you in an unexpected way. Nearly impossible to yard and work the crux due to the bolt's location. The quick links at the crux suggest that failure and subsequent bailing here is the norm.

Weird ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer Pressure (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Aug 29, 2005

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Comments: If this thing is 11d, then "Garret's Revenge" really is 11a....

Awesome climb!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse
By: ac When: Aug 28, 2005

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Comments: Time will clean it just fine, that some some use after a week+ of baking in the sun. Bring a moist towelette or a dozen. We should be more worried about the person who plays with his dung than the fact that it was done to a climb. Quite strange and disturbing.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Forrest Finish (5.10)
By: ac When: Aug 23, 2005

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Comments: 26 hrs? A2+? What happened up there? Big storm or something?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: ac When: Aug 22, 2005

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Comments: Hey Dave and Shaun, where you guys the ones aiding the route this past weekend?Sick Photos.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Pine Tree Route (5.5)
By: ac When: Aug 16, 2005

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Comments: Don't forget the irrigation tunnel if you want a second alternative for an easy walk off, water or no water. If someone needs to bail off of EB, let them leave some gear. Things can get pretty desperate up there when a storm blows in.

Anyone could leave some slings if they had to rappel off the tree and found no slings, so it isn't making it more dangerous....


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : White Devil (A0)
By: ac When: Aug 15, 2005

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Comments: PDW=good chance of painful death in remote place.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Naked Hedge (5.10)
By: ac When: Aug 15, 2005

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Comments: Climbed Naked Hedge on 8-14-05. Bolts and anchors still in place. GOOD! Not sure what all the complaining is about here, but people must be smoking crack. There is nothing wrong with that route at all! If you don't use the big, blocky flakes on the right of the first 30 feet, the climbing is excellent through this section. The arete section is somewhat contrived, in that you have to avoid obvious left stems to keep the difficulty level up. The holds are a little sandy down low, but there ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Skippin' Stones (5.11b/c)
By: ac When: Aug 14, 2005

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Comments: Hey, we're in CCC, remember? Land of "Charmin-soft" grades, close bolts, etc. This rig is mad-burly for CCC 11a. Gawdamm excellent, brilliant line, however!! Awesome position, strangely "big" air for a 1-pitch sport route.

Thanks for establishing this absolute gem! You guys really know what you're doing, and we appreciate it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination (5.11b)
By: ac When: Aug 11, 2005

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Comments: Tom P wrote: "The route between Divination and Earth Voyage is named ?? - goes at ballpark .13a."

Anyone know what the 2nd pitch of said route is rated? Looks harder than 2nd pitch of Divination.

Thanks.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Great Dihedral (5.7)
By: ac When: Aug 11, 2005

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Comments: Thanks for moderating, long time overdue.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: ac When: Aug 10, 2005

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Comments: I used "enervating" specifically and deliberately to express my meaning. KC got it precisely: the runouts on this route may tend to "weaken" one's focus/resolve/grasp on reality. Of course, that's not to say that this route is anything but absolutely, drop-dead gorgeous. Go do it, you'll see what I mean.

Cheers, thanks for the musings about word-meanings, I love that stuff.


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