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Member Since: Aug 14, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 1,503
Total Points: 383
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Comments are worth 1



Where has ac been climbing?










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All (318) | Routes (12) | Areas (2) | Photos (3) | Comments (218) | Posts | Stars (56) | Ratings (27)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Mental X (V5)
By: ac When: Jun 25, 2004

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Comments: Anonymous Coward, you obviously don't climb at Horsetooth very much. There are almost as many variations and squeeze jobs at Rotary Park as there are at Morrison. OK, I may be exaggerating slightly, but not much.


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Newlin Creek : Parking Lot Rock : Nincombook (5.10a)
By: ac When: Jun 23, 2004

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Comments: Crusher, you might want to reread your comment and see if it applies to your own post.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2004

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Comments: OK, so if the Palace is closed to further development...that means a bolting/trail building ban. That's not the same as a closure to climbing. Or did I misinterpret your post. Any idea who should be contacted at the Forest Service to discuss this?


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2004

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Comments: Regarding the Palace closure - can you be a little more specific about your information??


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: Jun 21, 2004

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Comments: Are you sure the Palace area is closed? How did you find out? Are there signs posted, or did a ranger stop you from climbing one day? I know there was some flack in the last year about unauthourized trail construction. But I heard that was all cleared up.

What's the official word?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Sea of Joy (5.13a A0)
By: ac When: Jun 11, 2004

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Comments: Tim, just curious, how is someone without a guidebook going to know how to get to this climb? Nothing in your description gives those details. I pity the fool that tries to find any route based solely on descriptions here, with the exception of new routes going up in Boulder Canyon like Plotinus Wall where the people posting have been thorough in their descriptions.

Please save your wit for rec.weanie.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: ac When: Jun 7, 2004

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Comments: Ernie and Larry, thanks for the additional historical perspective. By the time Rocky Heights was published, Rosy's reputation was far tamer than that. I don't know if there were different pins by that time, but I know that Rosy was often one of the first multi-pitch 5.10's that climbers would go after while progressing through the number grades (it was my 2nd 5.10). I guess climbers had more blind faith in those pins back then. Circa 1980, Rosy was certainly not a climb where you felt that a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: ac When: May 26, 2004

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Comments: Does anyone know why Steve Wunsch quit climbing? Near-death experience? Better to burn-out than fade away?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Crack (5.2)
By: ac When: May 25, 2004

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Comments: Hmmm.... Can anyone actually tell the difference between a 5.2 and a 5.4? I'm not much of a climber - 5.8 usually feels pretty stiff for me; 5.10 is out of the question - but I've never been able to tell the difference. I like Gerry Roach's scale: 5.0-2; 5.3-4; 5.5; etc. Let's face it: even if you are climbing in approach shoes or hiking boots, there are simply not five gradations of difficulty between 4th class and 5.5.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse
By: ac When: May 24, 2004

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Comments: The boulder below the finish was moved sometime last fall. The first time I noticed "the move" was immediately after last years Flagstaff trail work and cleanup weekend. I sincerley hoped this was just coincidence.

I posted this disheartening change to the frontrangebouldering.com message board and the overwhelming response would fall in the categories of either "I don't care its just Flagstaff", "its better with the rock moved", or "boulders move... the rains probably did it".

Lame.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : SW Face of The Warmup Bould... (V3-4)
By: ac When: May 18, 2004

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Comments: Nope Andy and I'm not sure why you would think so. Just left of the downclimb for this boulder, begin from a sit-start on low holds above a tree stump. Get your feet up and do an improbable mantel that will help you snatch the next left hand hold. Easy to finish from there.

Have fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Cruisin' for Burgers (5.10c)
By: ac When: May 17, 2004

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Comments: An excellent route, but probably not the route for an aspiring 5.10 leader -- one needs to either be able to "hang out" mid crux and place pro or confidently run it out until the climbing eases off...


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Bourgeois Belay Slave aka B... (5.10a/b)
By: ac When: May 14, 2004

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Comments: Anonymous Coward from 206.173.160.226 is user "Sirius".....


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: May 12, 2004

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Comments: Palace beta: crossing the Poudre in the Spring can be nearly impossible in the Spring. Check the water levels before you drive up there by checking the following website: www.dwr.state.co.us/Hydrology/flow_graph.asp?ID=CLAFTCCO&MTY>>>

A flow of 50-100 CFS is probably crossable but don't even think about it when it's at 1000 CFS! Also note that water levels can rise real quick. In May 2004 the water went from 70 CFS to 700 CFS in under 48 hours.

I believe this graph would also... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: ac When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: Quote from AC, IP # 192.31.106.36:

"Matt.Lighten up. I think AC was just giving his constructive criticism. Humble yourself, and take it for what its worth. Sounds like the route has not been climbed much, and so to agree with Paul's comment: just wait and see what other's inputs are. You might want to leave room for other climber's opinions that might not be able to climb as "hard" as you. The chalk and butts you mentioned is uncalled for, but easily cleaned up, I would imagine.

AC, sto... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: ac When: May 4, 2004

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Comments: Looks like a lot of people are awfully concerned by the imaginary difference between new and old sport climbs. I think this is bullsh!t, but that's beside the point. Perhaps Fred, Hank, and the ACs should ask themselves why this bothers them so much. Is it ego? Does the fact that people are climbing these supposedly soft-13a's and saying, "I climbed a 13a," make you feel like your climbing resume/prowesses are being threatened? Does that make all your 13a/b sends feel a little less impressi... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: ac When: May 4, 2004

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Comments: It seems as if rational thought processes are getting a toehold. Anyway, the best way to rid ourselves of grade inflation is to define the Front Range or CO standards. A lot of people will say this is a stupid exercise in worthless grademongering, but at least hear me out before you do so.

As you are all too aware, half the problem with grades is the importance the media and our egos place on them. Up-and-comers are constantly trying to climb bigger numbers while some old timers are in denial a... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: ac When: May 3, 2004

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Comments: The question was posed -- why no routes in the Front Range 14b or harder since 1999 -- seems to me it's a numbers game. There are probably less than 10 climbers in the Front Range that redpoint 14 b/c or higher, and how many of those 10 climbers are new route developers? There are certainly some Front Range Teenagers cranking the V equivalent, but they are not typically into putting up new routes -- they would rather find new bouldering problems. The rock would lend itself to that grade in C... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : Fuck You Finger (V11)
By: ac When: Apr 29, 2004

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Comments: If AC knew Peter Beal, he would know he is NOT working this problem from a TRUE sit-start solely for the #. Admittedly, he asked what other people think, but couldn't you just say its contrived and leave it at that?

Plenty of us think "complicated" contrived variations are fun, me included.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: ac When: Apr 22, 2004

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Comments: I think it should be pointed out that Erickson originally rated this route 9+. I think what Alan Nelson refers to as the "Valley Daze" is the trick for this one. Most climbers in Boulder are not so great at pure cracks as we don't have any. A few months at the Creek or in the Ditch will make this route feel easier.

An anchor on this route will not pass. I say pull the pin and stuck cordalette. If anyone needs to bail, they'll just leave some booty for us. It is also possible from the top of pit... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Shelf Road Virgin (5.10a)
By: ac When: Apr 20, 2004

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Comments: Matt, in Bob's defense, this route is not at the Bank... it's at the Dark Side.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: Apr 19, 2004

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Comments: The Palace is a newish sport area with about 50 routes in a concentrated area up the Poudre. Parking is located about 15 miles up river from Ted's Place (jct of Hwy 14 and Hwy 287). Park in the large pullout just past the tunnel. Go across the river (sometimes too high to cross in the Spring) and follow good trail for 5 minutes. Guidebook should be available locally sometime in late April 2004.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Fortress of Solitude : West Wall: Pummeling Sector... : Repulsion (5.12c)
By: ac When: Apr 16, 2004

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Comments: Hey Matt:

Are you guys using the Powers 5-piece zinc plated bolts or the Fixe SS wedge bolts for the news routes here? Is there much seepage in the limestone at the Fortress?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 R)
By: ac When: Apr 15, 2004

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Comments: What Fantasy Ridge probably deserves is a PG-13 rating. It's not a complete sew-up, and it can get minorly spooky, but it's no R route. The R rating would only scare off people from trying a very nice route that is quite safe if you're capable of climbing this grade.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Mental Block Traverse (V9)
By: ac When: Apr 15, 2004

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Comments: How is the R-L way harder? Is the north face section more difficult? Seems like starting on the Pinch and moving left would be easier because it eliminates the crux of doing Pinch Overhang at the end of the traverse. I've tried the R-L version but only went as far as Standard before topping out. That version is awesome.


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