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Member Since: Aug 14, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 1,580
Total Points: 383
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ac been climbing?










Contributions


All 318 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 218 | Posts | Stars 56 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12d)
By: ac When: Sep 11, 2005

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Comments: [Let's] see......Chris Hill (First Ascent of Wide Gauge)- _Kudos for the free ascent_Bernard [Gillett] (FA of WG)-_I've got no problem with Eli rating it A1......Looks like a neat free climb, nice job_

Stop Chris...Stop...[Can't] you see the horse is dead.

Now...back to my armchair.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12d)
By: ac When: Sep 2, 2005

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Comments: Site administrators -- don't let the vocal minority dissuade you. There are plenty of other web sites for wankers to spew. Any comment containing personal attacks should be deleted in its entirety. It shouldn't be your job to worry about. This site was good in the beginning, got pretty bad for a while, but you guys are doing a good job of turning it around. Thanks!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12d)
By: ac When: Sep 1, 2005

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Comments: Editing? More like complete evisceration....

The benevolent dictator has spoken.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12d)
By: ac When: Aug 31, 2005

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Comments: Charles, Spanky's comment was a personal attack and the majority of it was not relevant. He had two un-supported and slanderous comments towards the same person. They were both blatant attempts to revive a petty war that has been dead for sometime. As for the editing.......cb.com has lost its soul. It is a PC automaton.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: ac When: Aug 30, 2005

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Comments: My partner and I did this route a few years back. Did not realize it had only a first ascent. Gear at the end is strongly recommended! We took some killer falls onto the tree below. Hard moves over the roof and sustained slab moves up the arete. Nice to hear it was 12d and not us climbing so poorly!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Road Warrior (5.12d)
By: ac When: Aug 29, 2005

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Comments: The bolt at the crux is in a weird location, as if Alan had intended to push the crux through the flakes above the bolt. The traverse seems like the only reasonable, although very hard/slabby/techy, option. The bolt is in a weird place for this (like almost behind your head) and the fall could twist you in an unexpected way. Nearly impossible to yard and work the crux due to the bolt's location. The quick links at the crux suggest that failure and subsequent bailing here is the norm.

Weird ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer Pressure (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Aug 29, 2005

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Comments: If this thing is 11d, then "Garret's Revenge" really is 11a....

Awesome climb!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse
By: ac When: Aug 28, 2005

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Comments: Time will clean it just fine, that some some use after a week+ of baking in the sun. Bring a moist towelette or a dozen. We should be more worried about the person who plays with his dung than the fact that it was done to a climb. Quite strange and disturbing.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Forrest Finish (5.10)
By: ac When: Aug 23, 2005

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Comments: 26 hrs? A2+? What happened up there? Big storm or something?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: ac When: Aug 22, 2005

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Comments: Hey Dave and Shaun, where you guys the ones aiding the route this past weekend?Sick Photos.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Pine Tree Route (5.5)
By: ac When: Aug 16, 2005

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Comments: Don't forget the irrigation tunnel if you want a second alternative for an easy walk off, water or no water. If someone needs to bail off of EB, let them leave some gear. Things can get pretty desperate up there when a storm blows in.

Anyone could leave some slings if they had to rappel off the tree and found no slings, so it isn't making it more dangerous....


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : White Devil (5.10 A4)
By: ac When: Aug 15, 2005

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Comments: PDW=good chance of painful death in remote place.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Naked Hedge (5.10)
By: ac When: Aug 15, 2005

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Comments: Climbed Naked Hedge on 8-14-05. Bolts and anchors still in place. GOOD! Not sure what all the complaining is about here, but people must be smoking crack. There is nothing wrong with that route at all! If you don't use the big, blocky flakes on the right of the first 30 feet, the climbing is excellent through this section. The arete section is somewhat contrived, in that you have to avoid obvious left stems to keep the difficulty level up. The holds are a little sandy down low, but there ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Skippin' Stones (5.11b/c)
By: ac When: Aug 14, 2005

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Comments: Hey, we're in CCC, remember? Land of "Charmin-soft" grades, close bolts, etc. This rig is mad-burly for CCC 11a. Gawdamm excellent, brilliant line, however!! Awesome position, strangely "big" air for a 1-pitch sport route.

Thanks for establishing this absolute gem! You guys really know what you're doing, and we appreciate it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination (5.11b)
By: ac When: Aug 11, 2005

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Comments: Tom P wrote: "The route between Divination and Earth Voyage is named ?? - goes at ballpark .13a."

Anyone know what the 2nd pitch of said route is rated? Looks harder than 2nd pitch of Divination.

Thanks.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Great Dihedral (5.7)
By: ac When: Aug 11, 2005

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Comments: Thanks for moderating, long time overdue.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: ac When: Aug 10, 2005

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Comments: I used "enervating" specifically and deliberately to express my meaning. KC got it precisely: the runouts on this route may tend to "weaken" one's focus/resolve/grasp on reality. Of course, that's not to say that this route is anything but absolutely, drop-dead gorgeous. Go do it, you'll see what I mean.

Cheers, thanks for the musings about word-meanings, I love that stuff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : One In The Chamber (5.8)
By: ac When: Aug 9, 2005

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Comments: puerile


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : One In The Chamber (5.8)
By: ac When: Aug 9, 2005

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Comments: Why not just "let the pet out" before climbing?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Rise and Shine (5.12a)
By: ac When: Aug 3, 2005

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Comments: This may be the best 12a in Boulder Canyon, reminiscent of limestone climbing if you can believe it. And honest at the grade too. I thought the crux, unquestionably, was getting started on the upper face at bolt #6. The upper part is very pumpy featuring a burly match on a sloping horn... maybe a redpoint crux for some, but not as technically difficult as lower down. Watch out for some bad rock in the initial corner. The trad variation to the upper part is excellent, and worthy of 3 st... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Y2K (5.12c)
By: ac When: Aug 2, 2005

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Comments: Yes, multiple massive roofs, but little in the way of a pump factor since its a one-move wonder with good rests before and after the crux. Ignoring the rope drag issue, still 1-star climbing: worth doing, but not worth repeating.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : River Dance (5.12b/c)
By: ac When: Aug 1, 2005

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Comments: I would say hard-12a or easy-12b. 12a/b, then. Definitely harder than AKT and White Water. In hot conditions the crux at the anchor felt harder than the lower crux, probably b/c of the pump factor and greasy/licheneyness.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : White Water (5.12b)
By: ac When: Aug 1, 2005

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Comments: Probably one of the best easy-12 routes in Clear Creek


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Underbelly (5.12a)
By: ac When: Jul 28, 2005

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Comments: This route should have ended just over the lip at the 2nd bolt as a V4 bolted boulder problem. The upper corner and face are chossy and lame. A seemingly solid foothold collapsed under my weight in the corner sending me for a scraping fall, so look out here.

The Patio has a good collection of 1-star routes and is a great place for a quick workout. Expect bouldery cruxes at the equivalent V grade. War on Peace was the best of the bunch, and might deserve 2 stars. Underbelly is the worst. A... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Yoni (5.8)
By: ac When: Jul 26, 2005

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Comments: Aaahhh...leave it to that badass Rossiter to name a climb properly. I like it. Elixer amrita. Here's to daydreaming about the source, and the goal...

om.


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