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Member Since: Aug 14, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 1,548
Total Points: 383
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ac been climbing?










Contributions


All 318 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 218 | Posts | Stars 56 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Morada (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Nov 5, 2005

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Comments: Or, to answer Jim Redo's (non-rhetorical) question more simply:

Yes, Jim, you are correct.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Morada (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Nov 4, 2005

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Comments: No, color me a troll. What would the rating be after modernization?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity : North Face (5.7 WI3)
By: ac When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: Sounds like someone just took an Avy course.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: ac When: Oct 30, 2005

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Comments: George, it's not even November yet. The sooner you start TR'ing the pillars, the sooner they will fall apart, especially on "warm" days. Do the rest of the climbing community a favor and wait a few more weeks and let everything fill in a bit.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Unknown (5.6)
By: ac When: Oct 29, 2005

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Comments: I free soloed this ~5-6 yrs ago and saw chalk on it then. I agree that with a little more cleaning it would make a good beginner lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: ac When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Everyone will not agree. Pipe up about what bolts you think are not needed, eventually someone with a wrench will fix the route, or not. If I could climb more than 5.5- I would do it myself :-o


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: ac When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Uh ... yeah. Have you seen what happens to people on this site and in the community when someone removes a bolt? Retro-bolts? Changes fixed gear in any way, any where, under any circumstances?

If you haven't, one word: pirahnas.

It's probably easy for many to agree that Rolofson/whomever over bolted the hell out of many routes, the Eagle's (otherwise fun) routes included. But try to get consensus to change it... fuggedaboutit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: ac When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Why don't you post which bolts could or should be safely or easily skipped. Then perhaps we could eventually agree on which bolts should eventually be removed? If fixed pro is unecessary, clean it. Just stating that it is overbolted does not bring us forward.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : A Virgin No More (5.13a)
By: ac When: Oct 20, 2005

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Comments: Mike, don't be so hard on yourself. Beware of Trolls.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Spire : Center Slab (5.8+)
By: ac When: Oct 19, 2005

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Comments: As of 10/18 the first three bolts are missing their hangers. Easy climbing past bolt 1, there is good gear up to the first piton, but it does not just fall into the placements. There was a placement near each piton, in case you don't want to trust them.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Whirlpool Rock : Flexible Flyer (5.10c)
By: ac When: Oct 11, 2005

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Comments: This route is incredible!! I totally loved it. Careful with the gear at the 2nd roof: good horizontal slot up and left to begin (yellow Alien?), and then a hard-to-see #10-11 stopper placed sideways & shallow from the stem above. Make sure of these pieces, falling onto the slab would really hurt. I don't think you can get a gold camalot in anywhere though.

Flying Dutchman (11c) is just as good, and pretty darn challenging. Cool bouldery start (jump!) out left of FF w/ interesting gear pl... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : The Ridge (5.8)
By: ac When: Oct 10, 2005

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Comments: Andy,

Nice video, one comment, be sure to "protect the traverse" of your 2nd. I am not trying to be a buzzkill, but Julie would have hit the ledge at about 50% when the she climbs into the sun, if she had popped off. Better safe than sorry especially in that location.

Oh, just watched the end, be ready to dump your pack on a stream crossing. I usually wear the pack with only one arm.

Nice editing and sound too.

AC


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : Tsunami (V7-8)
By: ac When: Oct 10, 2005

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Comments: FYI: this problem starts matched on a sloping edge at about 6ft up, a few feet left of the arete. first move is a mini-bump into a very thin/sharp left hand crimp. Then, move to the good pinch on the arete. [This pinch hold flexes significantly. If climbing alone, pad for a sudden backflap if it breaks]. From the pinch do some stuff to gain the good edge at the lip of the arete.

You can do a traverse into this problem starting matched on a rail at about 4ft off the ground, 10ft left of the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tese (5.10)
By: ac When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: Short & a tad forced, but pretty cool nonetheless!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: Nice work, PB! "Retro-trad" is a classy evolution of the game, countering the forces of gridbolting & general dumbing-down unfortunately so prevalent these days. Kudos to Bob D. and others who still believe in the value of 'mixed' bolts & gear pitches. Placing gear is fun, and high-stakes physics problems with weakening forearms are still at the core of our freaky, wonderful sport...I think.

Have a burning urge to only establish 3 per bodylength bolt ladders? Do us all a favor, and please stay ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Great White Wall (5.10)
By: ac When: Sep 24, 2005

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Comments: Crux pitch is pretty hard for 10, and a little runout too.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Russian Arete (5.9+)
By: ac When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: This route is so good! 5 steep pitches, and a bunch of beautiful 3rd-classing right on the crest. Spectacular!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Helicopter (V5)
By: ac When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: Young Doug...the above photo of Adam appears that he is on what Rufus calls "Flaiming Arrow" (Direct start from underneath) and is V6. the start back to the left where the larger holds are, and traversing out the bench/ramp is V4. As if anyone really cares..


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Helicopter (V5)
By: ac When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: Young Doug...Actually I believe that John Sherman considers this benchmark at V4. I'm not trying to belittle anyone here..I consider this V4, especially if Missle is only V5... Hmmm The fall, winter, and spring are the best time to come up there..The place really can be pretty when the leaves turn across the road there, and one last thing..to he who oiled the holds I have a question..are you deliberately trying to piss me off?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Supernatural (5.11a)
By: ac When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: Young Doug...[Didn't] know the name when we did it. Thought it to be .10c/d-ish. Maybe my ape-index helps, but certainly there are no moves here that would be considered .11a..again, I must consider other benchmark routes at the grade. I am not a cutting-edge climber, but have 20+ years climbing in the Boulder area. I say that to lend some credentials to my stance on the grades. I would say this is a nice pitch, and well worth doing if you are up there..after all Boulder Canyon is a lot about qu... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: ac When: Sep 22, 2005

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Comments: Clarity and Logic? Please explain what is not clear or logical. If I were up there looking for property to buy, I would be worried about dirt bag camping on land adjacent to the road. I don't know too many real forest service camping areas that are like this. Typically the informal areas such as this eventually get closed down. This will be accelerated with new land owners. Climbers and should realize this and be proactive not just use it until it is taken away then whine. Keeping the are... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nostril Cave : Yellowcard (5.13d)
By: ac When: Sep 21, 2005

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Comments: what about the Naked Edge? there has been plenty of rock manufacturing on it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: ac When: Sep 19, 2005

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Comments: There are a lot of lots for sale in this area, I suspect the camping will become more of an issue in the future. It's only a matter of time before it's no camping. So, abuse it while it lasts? Not a good idea, but historically, I think this is how it goes down. Hopefully, there will still be parking after the (new) homeowners get really pissed off.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: ac When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: Ban camping here, before the campers give the climbers a bad name.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse
By: ac When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: Time for some of those large toothed bear traps?


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